nandob

iTrader: (2)

So I bought the car not running the kid broke down in front of my house 2 weeks later it was mine. I replaced the coil, igniter, distributor, and edu still will not start. The engine turns over fine, I have power to the injectors, coil, igniter, etc can't figure this out please help

2GSC300

iTrader: (6)

Have you checked the timing? Also, if there is an air leak in the intake piping (after the Mass Air Flow) or the piping is not connected it will not start. Check for fuel too.

nandob

iTrader: (2)

I checked all that. My Mech drives an SC and he can't figure it out. New distributor coil igniter

nandob

iTrader: (2)

101 views and 1 response???

onelt1

iTrader: (1)

Hell you could spray some starting fluid down its neck and see if it starts. If it does then you know that you don't have enough fuel. Do it in moderation though don't spray a whole can down the intake. Could be the AFM itself, wiring somewhere, battery not charged, sometimes the engine will crank and crank and you wont get it to start because you lack a volt or two, but this also comes with the engine losing power and cranking slower. Try you Plug wires and spark plug too. If you say you have checked your fuel then I would check timing and plug. The easiest way to check you plug wires is to get a spray bottle and fill it up with water and spray the wires, although this must be done when its dark, if the wires are bad you will see the wires grounding themselves out, looks really cool but is very bad. I am just letting you know what I have learned over the past and in school.

nandob

iTrader: (2)

Since then I've ordered a wiring harness haven't checked plugs. I'm towing it home tomorrow mechanic is a dud lol. He didn't check the fuel pump either.

nandob

iTrader: (2)

The guy I bought the car from broke down in front of my house. 2 weeks later I bought it. I am at a loss right now.

onelt1

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about the mechanic being a dud he has an SC and can't figure this out must be bad. Check your grounds from chassis to block and see if there are any broken. Ok so I was thinking what goes into starting a vehicle you got ignition fuel compression and exhaust right well since you took care of all the ignition side of things we can write that one off. We can look at fuel make sure your fuel pump is running if so make sure your fuel filter isn't clogged and test to see if you have the specified pressure at the engine, I'm thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of 40psi someone correct me if I am wrong. Now we look at Compression if your piston rings are gone then it might still start but you will have some nasty gray smoke coming out the tailpipes and it would take a while for it to start, so do a compression test just to be sure. In compression you have you valves that help compress the fuel air mixture a couple burnt intake valves or incorrect timing like 180 off can put the intake valves on the open stoke instead of the closed or vise versa and likewise with the exhaust valves which brings me to my next subject exhaust. If you are 180 off the engine will crank as usual but you will be sucking air in and then blocking it off and then letting the air in at the wrong moment. This sucks, then the exhaust would open when the intake is suppose to be and now we have a mess. Please don't hesitate to ask me more questions especially about this essay I just wrote sorry about it being so lengthy but I needed to go back to the basics. Now if none if these fixes your problem try and do an engine swap the 2jzge are fairly cheap and are a dime a dozen now the 2jzgte engines are pretty abundant as well but more expensive and you have to do a full tune up on it just to make sure nothing goes wrong with it. The same is true with the GE but with them being cheaper you can get more stuff done on them. I hope some of this helps and doesn't confuse you too much. Again sorry about it being an essay.