GS - 1st Gen (1993-1997) Discussion about the first generation GS300

SQUEEEKY brakes

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Old 12-21-02 | 09:35 PM
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Originally posted by mcnelson
Ohh, ohh, I get vibration when braking sometimes. I hope that it is just my rear stock rotors that would be mucher cheaper to replace than my front Rod Millen rotors and pads. I guess I will have to replace the rear when I get the chance.
Since your front rotors are RMs, I think it's safe to assume they are cross drilled and slotted? I am curious if anyone has ever machined/resurfaced them, or do they just need to be replaced? As far as replacing the stock rotors, if they are not entirely worn out, just resurface them. Around $20/pair or per disk, not sure. But definitely cheaper then buying new rotors at $200+ for a pair.
Old 12-21-02 | 10:11 PM
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Originally posted by Sovero1


Since your front rotors are RMs, I think it's safe to assume they are cross drilled and slotted? I am curious if anyone has ever machined/resurfaced them, or do they just need to be replaced? As far as replacing the stock rotors, if they are not entirely worn out, just resurface them. Around $20/pair or per disk, not sure. But definitely cheaper then buying new rotors at $200+ for a pair.
They are slotted but not crossed drilled. I am not sure if they would need to be replaced or not... What if they tell me the rotors are too thin, is there anyway to check to see if they are being honest? Measuring myself would be hard to do accurately. If so I will have to buy new ones.
Old 12-21-02 | 11:10 PM
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Usually you could tell just by looking at them. Rear rotors even new will be thinner then the front ones, and more than likely not vented, since they only handle 20-30% of breaking. The best thing to do is to go to any auto parts store and look at generic rotors. They are all approximately the same thickness, especially if they are made for your car. This way, after 5 mins at the store you'll know whether or not the guys at the shop are telling you the truth.
Old 12-21-02 | 11:17 PM
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Originally posted by Sovero1
Jmai22: Do you feel any vibration at all when breaking at high speeds or your brakes just squeal? If it's the former, your rotors may need resurfacing, if the latter, may be you need shim oil or maybe your brake pads are worn to the point that they need replacement.

When I bought my car, it'd vibrate when breaking from 80- mph. After resurfacing the rotors when changing brake pads the problem went away for about 2.5 years. Now the car started to shake (it's barely noticable) again, and when I will be changing the brake pads (I was thinking of going with EBC Green Stuff instead of OEM pads) I 'll have my rotors resurfaced again. I have stock rotors, not slotted, drilled or anything like that.


ALL: What does it mean when the rotors get warped? If I understand it correctly, it's uneven wear from the brake pads?
i think it just needs oil then. because i can break from 100 without my hand on the wheel and it won't vibrate and it will break in a straight line.
Old 12-21-02 | 11:44 PM
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John, do you have stock brakes front and back or aftermarket?
Old 12-21-02 | 11:48 PM
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Originally posted by Sovero1
John, do you have stock brakes front and back or aftermarket?
stock as can be. lol. well my pads aren't from the dealer. they are from kregans.

Last edited by Jmai22; 12-21-02 at 11:48 PM.
Old 12-22-02 | 06:28 PM
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Straying off subject, but here is the recommended minimum thickness for rotors:

Front 30.0 mm (1.181 in)

Rear 15.0 mm (0.591 in)

Last edited by Sovero1; 12-22-02 at 06:48 PM.
Old 12-22-02 | 08:06 PM
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haven't measured. but oh yeah forgot to answer a question asked earlier. my pads are pretty new. about 5,000 miles on them still very thick
Old 12-22-02 | 08:17 PM
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Yeah, brake pads can be as thin as 1mm (absoluste minimum). I am not sure at what point they start to squeal.

Anywayz...
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