7oh5

When driving the car it acts normally, and when it starts to get into boost it pulls hard. Then all of a sudden it falls on its face and the check engine light comes on for a few seconds. Then it goes out, and then the turbo will start to start to spool again and then it does the same thing.

Its running a t67 turbo, 550 injectors, and a tial 46mm wastegate. Its just running off of that right now with a 16 psi spring.

From what I have gathered online, it seems like its the factory fuel cut. I am not 100% though, so I am just looking for some opinions. I am currently not running a boost gauge (on order) so I dont know the exact psi it is happening at.

P.O was running an aem wideband, so when we test drove it, it was fine. If I just ran one would it clear the issue? Ive been looking at fuel cut defenders, and other stuff like that. But just want to hear what other people have to say.

Thanks!

OGS300

what computer are you running and do you have a fuel cut defender? if not your running into fuel/boost cut very common on these 2JZ's

7oh5

Stock ecu, no fuel cut defender. Would an aem wideband controller/gauge fix this? Or would it be safer to just get a different spring and run less boost? I'd like to stay with what it is at, but i also want this to last a while.

OGS300

get a hks fuel cut defender so you can trick you ecu to run more boost than reccommended are you running a aristo ecu?

Nixspeed

A wideband wont stop you from hitting fuel cut. Fuel cut is at 18psi on a perfect map sensor and good alternator output. If your voltage is not right around 14.4 or the map sensor is old you'll hit fuel cut at a different psi but with a 16lb spring you're most likely hitting over 18. Id put a lighter spring in and get a boost controller. Id get a 10lb spring.

Not sure what all you're running but stock drive train for the aristo will only handle about 400whp. I'm making 400whp on a 6262 at 12psi so you're probably over 400 and the auto trans, rear diff can't handle too much abuse.

yukkerz

I don't know if I am having the same problem or not. My problem is under full throttle the car will cut off and back on for like a second if that. Any ideas what could cause that?

sj408

iTrader: (6)

Boost cut is at 14.7 psi. At least on jdm ecu.... Just an fyi.

Nixspeed

Weird its 18 on the 3sgte JDM which I'm more familiar with. Maybe that's why my car bucks when I hit 15 lol. Guess its time for my map ecu2 Install.

sj408

iTrader: (6)

Ahh i see.... must be where u get your info regarding the rear ends not taking much abuse??? Mine takes a flogging.

Nixspeed

No mr2s don't have the same rear diff. They are actually very strong. I've built slot of supra and other Lexus cars and while I've never personally broke one of those rear diff I've heard plenty of sTories from customers shattering theirs. Although thats on higher HP cars with good tires launching or drifting. If you don't make much power or have auto you're fine.

yukkerz

I am only boosting to about 12 and it seems to happen.

7oh5

Diff is holding up great, trans is slipping though. Sadly.

Car will be getting a good go through over the winter, should have it taken care of by spring.

What is the best Fuel Cut Defender? Getting a lot of mixed reviews on the HKS.

cibao2jz

Get the mine ecu chip

yukkerz

Looked at my FCD and it was set on 12. Anyone have one and maybe fill me in?

7oh5

Well, sadly, my car HAD the mines ECU in it when I went and looked at it out of town. Of course, seller didnt have the car ready for me to take it home that day, so we had to drive back (about 8 hours each way) the next weekend to pick it up. Stupidly, we didnt go for another test drive to make sure everything was good.

He offered to sell it to me over text the week between putting the down payment on it and picking it up (which I should have found suspecious, but he insisted it wasnt in the car while I was there)



He seemed like an honest/nice guy, but live and learn I guess.