Ieatpeople

Currently finishing up my single turbo install (garrett 466159-5008), and was wondering how much pressure the stock ecu will allow before cutting? i have a 4psi wastegate spring right now and im hoping car is driveable this way. i do have a wideband, and will be installing a 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator to hopefully not kill the motor instantly lol

also, i know if i put the maf before the turbo it wont read boost at all and i was wondering if this is better. so draw-thru vs. blow-thru?

joewitafro

the 2jzge ecu has no map to see boost pressure. You are asking to blow your motor without a piggyback or changing your ecu. You need to google the Ali_SC 2jzgte ecu swap.

Ieatpeople

i know you have alot of knowledge on this subject, and i appreciate your input.

but

take into consideration how a maf works, it measures airflow and the ecu calculates fuel demand in conjunction with tps voltage. if the maf sees additional airflow the computer will respond appropriately up to its built in limit, i.e. "maf sensor voltage out of range". the o2 sensor also tells the ecu to add or reduce fuel.

as long as i dont add too much extra air, it can compensate. i know these cars run a bit rich anyway, mine has always showed 10.9-11.5 afr on the dyno.

dont get upset, i do plan on doing the tt ecu swap in a little while but i wanna experiment a little bit

Ieatpeople

okay perfect, draw-thru is the way to go

joewitafro

10.8-11.2 is your ideal AFR under boost, so i would just fixate on that, add a 1:1 fpr, but I still don't understand where you are trying to go with it..Why risk it.

Here's someone on the is300 forums with a 1:1 fpr with 6 psi running 11.5-12.1 AFR, which I feel is pushing too lean. He also tried .6/.7 bar, 8.5-10psi and blew a head gasket and cracked his ring lands.

http://my.is/forums/f114/2jz-na-t-st...rience-593841/

Ieatpeople

that thread on the 2gs was exactly what i was looking for!

like i said in my first post: my wg spring is .3 bar so im definitely within the safe range, i already have a 1:1 fpr i will be installing, and i have a wideband to moniter afr.

i will not be attempting to raise the boost until i get my tt ecu. i already ordered one, just need to get ign coils and the right maf and map to go with it

Ieatpeople

okay guys, car is finished and driving. afr is averaging 10.8-11.5 on wot pulls @0.3 bar

pulls good, boost comes on at 2500.

dyno numbers and 1/4 mile times within a few weeks

Ieatpeople

i think it picked up about 40hp so far, gonna step it up to 6psi before dyno

Ieatpeople

car still runs perfect, still at 4psi, went to the dragstrip and did a trackday with no issues.

car is about to get taken apart for some changes:
cd009 6spd is going in finally
getting turbo manifold ceramic coated
installing turbo blanket
installing heat wrap on downpipe
wrapping charge piping in gold heat tape
insulator gaskets on intake manifold
all new oem gaskets on engine and maybe head studs
megasquirt standalone ecu

joewitafro

I would skip the turbo blanket and instead build a heat shield. I know you're na-t and thats why your trying to keep intake charge cold, i agree on everything else.

Ieatpeople

i currently am running a heatshield, but with no way for the heat to escape the engine bay it only helps a tiny bit. Id rather trap the heat inside the metal and let it cool after it goes under the car.

i already have all the parts i listed above, just waiting until i have my other turbo car (94 tercel) put back together and out of my workspace