Aristo swap
02-27-19, 09:50 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Aristo swap
Hello friends!!
I am a big fan of the Gen1 GS300. Its something about it looks I really like about. They are little hard to come by and there is one that popped up local to me for 3500. it is a 95 with close to 130K miiles. Exterior/Interior looks pretty clean though.Saying that I am really interested in doing a 2JZGTE swap if I end up getting the car. I know many of you have done the job personally and would like to get all the info needed to perform the task. I would really appreciate any advice and knowledge shared!!!
Thanks in Advance!!!
I am a big fan of the Gen1 GS300. Its something about it looks I really like about. They are little hard to come by and there is one that popped up local to me for 3500. it is a 95 with close to 130K miiles. Exterior/Interior looks pretty clean though.Saying that I am really interested in doing a 2JZGTE swap if I end up getting the car. I know many of you have done the job personally and would like to get all the info needed to perform the task. I would really appreciate any advice and knowledge shared!!!
Thanks in Advance!!!
02-28-19, 02:27 PM
#3
Racer
If you hit the search function you would've got a lot of answers! A lot of us have build threads which document this procedure with pictures and information to go along with it. Also, a lot of the members aren't very active to reply to all the new swap posts.
Work towards getting the car first and driving it and learning about it more before wanting to swap a turbo motor into it. That's my first advice.
Second, doing a 2jzgte swap requires access to tools, engine hoist, jacks, stands, and the competence to get under the car and figure out where things are.
Since you want swap information before owning the car, here you go.
1) jack up the front of the car and put jack stands behind front wheels with the rear tires chocked.
2) disconnect battery and remove it.
3) drain radiator fluid into pan using lower release valve, afterwards remove upper and lower hose clamps, hoses, and the top radiator clamps to remove the radiator.
4) drain engine oil from oil pan.
5) remove engine fan, followed by disconnecting the air box and intake ducting.
6) disconnect ground strap on passenger firewall to head, followed by cutting or disconnecting passenger firewall heater hose near exhaust.
7) remove serpentine belt, disconnect power steering pump and reservoir and set aside without disconnecting lines.
8) disconnect and set aside a/c compressor without disconnecting lines
9) disconnect return fuel hose from passenger manifold, clamp to prevent leaking.
10) under the car, disconnect starter wires, and remove fuel inlet banjo bolt. Bag up fuel inlet to prevent leaking.
11) remove tunnel shield, and disconnect driveshaft from rear and front yolks, disconnect center section and remove.
12) remove bottom engine mount bolts after prying plastic caps off sub frame.
13) disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cables, you could further go remove throttle cable from under dash as you'll replace it with a 93-98 Supra TT one.
14) disconnect heater control valve and cut/remove heater hoses from drivers side.
15) under the car use jack under transmission tailshaft to prevent it from dropping, then remove ground strap near transmission on drivers side and then transmission cross brace.
16) Remove passenger door gaurd, pull up carpeting to reveal kick panel and remove to show ECU, disconnect and remove ECU
17) disconnect passenger firewall harness plate and slowely pull harness through the firewall, going from the ECU side to the motor side time and time again to feed the wires through without breaking the ends off (not the easiest)
18) set the removed harness ontop of the motor, double check for any wires connecting from the motor to the engine bay(igniter, ground straps, body harness connecting to several things)
19) lower jack slowly from transmission and remove jack. Remove hood from car and set ontop of car.
20) Hook up engine hoist to the two hooks on the head allowing the motor to come out of the car at a near vertical angle (may have to be readjusted once you lift the motor out of the subframe, to tilt enough to pull the pan over the radiator core support)
You can check out my build thread for pictures and probably a more in-depth review on how to do this procedure. I think you should enjoy the car if you can before swapping the motor to learn the differences and and what it takes to swap the 2jzgte into this car, whether you can afford that right now or save up and learn as much as you can about the platform. Good luck!
Work towards getting the car first and driving it and learning about it more before wanting to swap a turbo motor into it. That's my first advice.
Second, doing a 2jzgte swap requires access to tools, engine hoist, jacks, stands, and the competence to get under the car and figure out where things are.
Since you want swap information before owning the car, here you go.
1) jack up the front of the car and put jack stands behind front wheels with the rear tires chocked.
2) disconnect battery and remove it.
3) drain radiator fluid into pan using lower release valve, afterwards remove upper and lower hose clamps, hoses, and the top radiator clamps to remove the radiator.
4) drain engine oil from oil pan.
5) remove engine fan, followed by disconnecting the air box and intake ducting.
6) disconnect ground strap on passenger firewall to head, followed by cutting or disconnecting passenger firewall heater hose near exhaust.
7) remove serpentine belt, disconnect power steering pump and reservoir and set aside without disconnecting lines.
8) disconnect and set aside a/c compressor without disconnecting lines
9) disconnect return fuel hose from passenger manifold, clamp to prevent leaking.
10) under the car, disconnect starter wires, and remove fuel inlet banjo bolt. Bag up fuel inlet to prevent leaking.
11) remove tunnel shield, and disconnect driveshaft from rear and front yolks, disconnect center section and remove.
12) remove bottom engine mount bolts after prying plastic caps off sub frame.
13) disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cables, you could further go remove throttle cable from under dash as you'll replace it with a 93-98 Supra TT one.
14) disconnect heater control valve and cut/remove heater hoses from drivers side.
15) under the car use jack under transmission tailshaft to prevent it from dropping, then remove ground strap near transmission on drivers side and then transmission cross brace.
16) Remove passenger door gaurd, pull up carpeting to reveal kick panel and remove to show ECU, disconnect and remove ECU
17) disconnect passenger firewall harness plate and slowely pull harness through the firewall, going from the ECU side to the motor side time and time again to feed the wires through without breaking the ends off (not the easiest)
18) set the removed harness ontop of the motor, double check for any wires connecting from the motor to the engine bay(igniter, ground straps, body harness connecting to several things)
19) lower jack slowly from transmission and remove jack. Remove hood from car and set ontop of car.
20) Hook up engine hoist to the two hooks on the head allowing the motor to come out of the car at a near vertical angle (may have to be readjusted once you lift the motor out of the subframe, to tilt enough to pull the pan over the radiator core support)
You can check out my build thread for pictures and probably a more in-depth review on how to do this procedure. I think you should enjoy the car if you can before swapping the motor to learn the differences and and what it takes to swap the 2jzgte into this car, whether you can afford that right now or save up and learn as much as you can about the platform. Good luck!
03-01-19, 09:54 PM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
If you hit the search function you would've got a lot of answers! A lot of us have build threads which document this procedure with pictures and information to go along with it. Also, a lot of the members aren't very active to reply to all the new swap posts.
Work towards getting the car first and driving it and learning about it more before wanting to swap a turbo motor into it. That's my first advice.
Second, doing a 2jzgte swap requires access to tools, engine hoist, jacks, stands, and the competence to get under the car and figure out where things are.
Since you want swap information before owning the car, here you go.
1) jack up the front of the car and put jack stands behind front wheels with the rear tires chocked.
2) disconnect battery and remove it.
3) drain radiator fluid into pan using lower release valve, afterwards remove upper and lower hose clamps, hoses, and the top radiator clamps to remove the radiator.
4) drain engine oil from oil pan.
5) remove engine fan, followed by disconnecting the air box and intake ducting.
6) disconnect ground strap on passenger firewall to head, followed by cutting or disconnecting passenger firewall heater hose near exhaust.
7) remove serpentine belt, disconnect power steering pump and reservoir and set aside without disconnecting lines.
8) disconnect and set aside a/c compressor without disconnecting lines
9) disconnect return fuel hose from passenger manifold, clamp to prevent leaking.
10) under the car, disconnect starter wires, and remove fuel inlet banjo bolt. Bag up fuel inlet to prevent leaking.
11) remove tunnel shield, and disconnect driveshaft from rear and front yolks, disconnect center section and remove.
12) remove bottom engine mount bolts after prying plastic caps off sub frame.
13) disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cables, you could further go remove throttle cable from under dash as you'll replace it with a 93-98 Supra TT one.
14) disconnect heater control valve and cut/remove heater hoses from drivers side.
15) under the car use jack under transmission tailshaft to prevent it from dropping, then remove ground strap near transmission on drivers side and then transmission cross brace.
16) Remove passenger door gaurd, pull up carpeting to reveal kick panel and remove to show ECU, disconnect and remove ECU
17) disconnect passenger firewall harness plate and slowely pull harness through the firewall, going from the ECU side to the motor side time and time again to feed the wires through without breaking the ends off (not the easiest)
18) set the removed harness ontop of the motor, double check for any wires connecting from the motor to the engine bay(igniter, ground straps, body harness connecting to several things)
19) lower jack slowly from transmission and remove jack. Remove hood from car and set ontop of car.
20) Hook up engine hoist to the two hooks on the head allowing the motor to come out of the car at a near vertical angle (may have to be readjusted once you lift the motor out of the subframe, to tilt enough to pull the pan over the radiator core support)
You can check out my build thread for pictures and probably a more in-depth review on how to do this procedure. I think you should enjoy the car if you can before swapping the motor to learn the differences and and what it takes to swap the 2jzgte into this car, whether you can afford that right now or save up and learn as much as you can about the platform. Good luck!
Work towards getting the car first and driving it and learning about it more before wanting to swap a turbo motor into it. That's my first advice.
Second, doing a 2jzgte swap requires access to tools, engine hoist, jacks, stands, and the competence to get under the car and figure out where things are.
Since you want swap information before owning the car, here you go.
1) jack up the front of the car and put jack stands behind front wheels with the rear tires chocked.
2) disconnect battery and remove it.
3) drain radiator fluid into pan using lower release valve, afterwards remove upper and lower hose clamps, hoses, and the top radiator clamps to remove the radiator.
4) drain engine oil from oil pan.
5) remove engine fan, followed by disconnecting the air box and intake ducting.
6) disconnect ground strap on passenger firewall to head, followed by cutting or disconnecting passenger firewall heater hose near exhaust.
7) remove serpentine belt, disconnect power steering pump and reservoir and set aside without disconnecting lines.
8) disconnect and set aside a/c compressor without disconnecting lines
9) disconnect return fuel hose from passenger manifold, clamp to prevent leaking.
10) under the car, disconnect starter wires, and remove fuel inlet banjo bolt. Bag up fuel inlet to prevent leaking.
11) remove tunnel shield, and disconnect driveshaft from rear and front yolks, disconnect center section and remove.
12) remove bottom engine mount bolts after prying plastic caps off sub frame.
13) disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cables, you could further go remove throttle cable from under dash as you'll replace it with a 93-98 Supra TT one.
14) disconnect heater control valve and cut/remove heater hoses from drivers side.
15) under the car use jack under transmission tailshaft to prevent it from dropping, then remove ground strap near transmission on drivers side and then transmission cross brace.
16) Remove passenger door gaurd, pull up carpeting to reveal kick panel and remove to show ECU, disconnect and remove ECU
17) disconnect passenger firewall harness plate and slowely pull harness through the firewall, going from the ECU side to the motor side time and time again to feed the wires through without breaking the ends off (not the easiest)
18) set the removed harness ontop of the motor, double check for any wires connecting from the motor to the engine bay(igniter, ground straps, body harness connecting to several things)
19) lower jack slowly from transmission and remove jack. Remove hood from car and set ontop of car.
20) Hook up engine hoist to the two hooks on the head allowing the motor to come out of the car at a near vertical angle (may have to be readjusted once you lift the motor out of the subframe, to tilt enough to pull the pan over the radiator core support)
You can check out my build thread for pictures and probably a more in-depth review on how to do this procedure. I think you should enjoy the car if you can before swapping the motor to learn the differences and and what it takes to swap the 2jzgte into this car, whether you can afford that right now or save up and learn as much as you can about the platform. Good luck!
Thank you so much for the suggestions and Really appreciate the honesty in the giving me the direction. I will be going through your build process. But I would also like to know the challenges you have faced and how you resolved it. Also would like to know how you solved the wiring issues.
Thank you again!!!
03-02-19, 05:27 PM
#5
Racer
Yeah definitely check out my build thread and others, along with the aristo swap guide.
I paid to have my harness done by someone else, others that are more wiring savvy have done it themselves.
Theres plenty of challenges that you will face, wiring, engine mounts, throttle cable, ABS pump, firewall, radiator. But each of them has been documented through many build threads and swap guides. You should read and hopefully find photos to give you an idea, but once you read the thread and have the car in front of you it will be understandable.
I paid to have my harness done by someone else, others that are more wiring savvy have done it themselves.
Theres plenty of challenges that you will face, wiring, engine mounts, throttle cable, ABS pump, firewall, radiator. But each of them has been documented through many build threads and swap guides. You should read and hopefully find photos to give you an idea, but once you read the thread and have the car in front of you it will be understandable.
03-02-19, 05:46 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Yeah definitely check out my build thread and others, along with the aristo swap guide.
I paid to have my harness done by someone else, others that are more wiring savvy have done it themselves.
Theres plenty of challenges that you will face, wiring, engine mounts, throttle cable, ABS pump, firewall, radiator. But each of them has been documented through many build threads and swap guides. You should read and hopefully find photos to give you an idea, but once you read the thread and have the car in front of you it will be understandable.
I paid to have my harness done by someone else, others that are more wiring savvy have done it themselves.
Theres plenty of challenges that you will face, wiring, engine mounts, throttle cable, ABS pump, firewall, radiator. But each of them has been documented through many build threads and swap guides. You should read and hopefully find photos to give you an idea, but once you read the thread and have the car in front of you it will be understandable.
1. Has a oil leak. I suspect a valve cover gasket or oil pan gasket.
2. Interior is decent. Exterior is very good minus minor scratches
3. Drive was soggy( probably not the right term used. Hope u understand) and car looked under powered.
4. Wheels were decent also.
5. All interior switches work. Rear window actuators are tired and move and down really slow
Out if all i thought i would buy and drive the car as is u til i can gather all the information. But the drive was really unmotivating. I still like the styling of the car and see gen1 aristos are more sought after than other gens.
Again he was asking 3.5k and was willing to let go for 3.25k today.
I will appreciate your input on this..! 👍🙂
03-02-19, 06:18 PM
#7
Racer
130k miles is pretty good, depending on quality of interior and exterior. But yeah probably valve cover gaskets are leaking, maybe cam seals.
Stock the car is pretty underpowered, hence why people do the 2jzgte or turbo swap.
Also sounds like the window regulators are going to fail in the rear if their moving slow and struggling. 3250 sounds like a lot, but then again for a super clean well maintained and documented car it might be worth it. Was there receipts of work done? By 130k, a new timing belt should've been done. This could leave you spending about 500 for water pump, gaskets and belts to replace everything. And more if you pay someone else.
Stock the car is pretty underpowered, hence why people do the 2jzgte or turbo swap.
Also sounds like the window regulators are going to fail in the rear if their moving slow and struggling. 3250 sounds like a lot, but then again for a super clean well maintained and documented car it might be worth it. Was there receipts of work done? By 130k, a new timing belt should've been done. This could leave you spending about 500 for water pump, gaskets and belts to replace everything. And more if you pay someone else.
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03-02-19, 06:27 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
130k miles is pretty good, depending on quality of interior and exterior. But yeah probably valve cover gaskets are leaking, maybe cam seals.
Stock the car is pretty underpowered, hence why people do the 2jzgte or turbo swap.
Also sounds like the window regulators are going to fail in the rear if their moving slow and struggling. 3250 sounds like a lot, but then again for a super clean well maintained and documented car it might be worth it. Was there receipts of work done? By 130k, a new timing belt should've been done. This could leave you spending about 500 for water pump, gaskets and belts to replace everything. And more if you pay someone else.
Stock the car is pretty underpowered, hence why people do the 2jzgte or turbo swap.
Also sounds like the window regulators are going to fail in the rear if their moving slow and struggling. 3250 sounds like a lot, but then again for a super clean well maintained and documented car it might be worth it. Was there receipts of work done? By 130k, a new timing belt should've been done. This could leave you spending about 500 for water pump, gaskets and belts to replace everything. And more if you pay someone else.
I was driving my wifes 06 camry (4 cyl). Which make less power than stock GE motor. But i know camry is definitely faster.
what would be a good price for this car with all the problems i mentioned?
03-03-19, 09:39 AM
#9
Racer
2000-2500. If they cannot provide proof of the parts and service done I would instantly walk away.
03-04-19, 11:18 AM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input and the advice Joe. That sale didn't pan out. He was not willing to go anything less than 3250. I backed out after that. I still love the way Gen1's looks. Would love to own and do a turbo swap when possible. Now I am looking to see if I can secure a Gen 2.
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