Jdm 1uz vvti swap help!!
#1
1st Gear
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Jdm 1uz vvti swap help!!
OK so I swapped a JDM 1uzvvti motor in my 99 GS400,
got it running and discovered the timing was off by one tooth. it ran fine but still the CEL came on and gave me the P1346 and P1351 codes.
i made the proper adjustment, lined up the timing correctly drove the car 2 hours without issue, shut it down started it back up and it gave me a CEL with the same codes again, only this time with a bad misfire. wtf did i do wrong?
got it running and discovered the timing was off by one tooth. it ran fine but still the CEL came on and gave me the P1346 and P1351 codes.
i made the proper adjustment, lined up the timing correctly drove the car 2 hours without issue, shut it down started it back up and it gave me a CEL with the same codes again, only this time with a bad misfire. wtf did i do wrong?
#2
Advanced
iTrader: (1)
Can you clarify - After you fixed the belt, got it properly installed, and drove it for 2 hours, was the CEL off during this time? If so, I would be pulling the timing cover off to check timing again... did you replace the hydraulic tensioner and belt at the time you swapped the engine?
#3
Sorry not providing advice as I have none but looks like a lot of us are doing timing related jobs recently! All in the same boat haha.
What made you swap in the new motor?
What made you swap in the new motor?
#4
Instructor
Did you replace the timing belt originally? Anytime the timing belt is changed the tensioner and idler pulley should always be replaced at the same time, it being of by 1 tooth isn’t that unusual when the timing belt is changed but to have anymore problems after correcting the timing is pretty unusual, I would just buy a authentic new NTN tensioner and put this problem behind you once and for all
#5
Hopefully this is your issue. Did you correctly time your crank, cams, and belt? With your crank pulley, timing belt, and crank gear cover (the plastic cover with the 10 and 0 degree marking) on, the notch on your crank pulley should be at 0 degrees on the cover, and both cam gear dots should be dead center under the vertical line on the cam gear backing plate. If this is not the case, you're out of time and I can assist with correct timing.
I just did this job over the new year and went from perfectly in-time before I removed the belt, to removing the belt, moving one cam gear independent of the other cam gear and crank gear , to having the crank gear out of time with respect to both cam gears which were now in time with each other, and fearing that I totally boned myself when I turned the crank and it wouldn't move because the valve was now blocking the piston when I turned the crank , to lining up both cam gears and crank gear to 50 degrees past TDC and putting the belt on and pulling the tensioner pin and firing my car up with no bent valves or broken bits!
I just did this job over the new year and went from perfectly in-time before I removed the belt, to removing the belt, moving one cam gear independent of the other cam gear and crank gear , to having the crank gear out of time with respect to both cam gears which were now in time with each other, and fearing that I totally boned myself when I turned the crank and it wouldn't move because the valve was now blocking the piston when I turned the crank , to lining up both cam gears and crank gear to 50 degrees past TDC and putting the belt on and pulling the tensioner pin and firing my car up with no bent valves or broken bits!
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atl4love
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11-17-08 01:40 PM