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So long story short my rad blew so well I was waiting for a new one I did new timing belt, pump, seals. I threw the old rad in to fire it up check everything was fine it ran as it did before. Roughly 2 weeks later my new rad arrived I installed go to crank absolutely nothing I scan the vehicle get a code for the immob I start screwing around trying to get the key to read the security light goes off and stays off car just cranks no start. I ended up buying a non immob ecu and installing it crank no start so I run down the checks injector pulse good 12v constant under crank... so fuels ruled out I go to spark I checked igniter first rather than pulling plugs 12v constant 5v reference across all coils so now I check at the coil connectors 12v during crank next step ground the plug and check all have spark I feather the pedal to be sure it gets air cranks no start no codes from a scanner or the cel diagnostic port battery alternator good I jumped the starter to be sure as my last aristo wouldn't start do to bad ground ruled that out. I would check the compression but my compressor **** the bed this winter and seeing as the car drove absolutely fine 2 weeks prior id say it's fine I double checked timing aligned marks and double checked timing gear to be sure it had all its teeth plugs were flooded so I bought new plugs allowed for the engine to air out over night installed plugs crank no start. I did all the above checks again with the old ecu and the immob light was now working as should and went out during crank no immob codes still cranking... just wondering if anyone has some knowledge or tips I was always under the assumption fuel spark air it should start I'm only a 2nd year tech currently in school for 3rd year right now so my knowledge isn't near what others is so here I am.
Sorry, your post is barely legible, very crammed and some plots not leading anywhere.
When you checked the Injector Signal, did you just check the 12V Supply? Injectors are triggered from the Ground Signal supplied by the ECU, 12V power that you measured is coming directly from the Battery. To check that you do indeed have Injector Pulses, either use a Stethoscope to listen to it clicking, or place an LED bulb in place of the Injector, it has to be LED, as a regular bulb won't have the time to light up.
When you checked for Spark, did you actually get it? From your post, it seems like you tried checking the actual Spark on the Plug, but it is quite unclear on whether you actually got it, the discussion about the Igniter is very random, and just as unclear.
If you have Both Spark and Fuel, there is very little that can prevent the car from starting at all, it can run terribly, but it will at least attempt to start. The only other obvious issue is the Timing. Take a picture of the Timing Belt with all the Marks aligned, may save a lot of time.
If either Spark or Fuel is missing, then there isn't much to do other than to pursue those until you find a cause.
Hello, sorry that the post is all crammed together
When checking injector pulse I just jumped the relay and had the engine cranking well I listened with a stethoscope and checked the connectors for 12v constant power.
As for spark I have 12v constant under crank at each connector to the coils. I used a spare plug through each coil and grounded to chassis and had spark.
The timing is aligned with each Individual mark the lines and not the dots. I put a metal rod in cylinder one as well to be sure it was on TDC
Today I did an oil change due to gas being in it from continuous crank no combustion I aired out each cylinder and let the plugs sit out for few hours and added few drops oil to each cylinder. After all of that the engine almost fired up so my plan now is to let it sit for few days with the plugs out to let possible gas evaporate from cylinders.
I also noticed when cranking my dash lights went out so I ordered 50ft of 4 gauge wire to redo some of the cables. I also ordered a few ground straps to redo grounds as I feel there's a possibility something may be causing resistance due to the lines being 20+ years old .
I have faith I can find it but she's definitely going to be a journey as information on the JZS161 is limited and takes strenuous research to find. Thanks for the reply appreciate it I will continue and let you know if I do fix it eventually...
Well, you just ruled out all the electrical issues that could be there - you have Fuel, and you have Spark, the issue is that it all doesn't burn at all, to me it looks very much like a timing issue. There was a very stupid move by Toyota in those cars, I got burned by it pretty badly - the Cam Sprockets had Timing Marks on both sides, and said Sprocket can be installed in either way, the only issue is that the Marks on each side do not line up with each other, so if you flip the Sprocket, your Timing will be off even if all the marks are in place, hence why I asked for a picture of the Timing Belt Setup you currently have.
Try to align all the Dots instead of Lines, see if the alignment would still be correct, here are some good visuals to help with it.
The exhaust side only has the line or the dot i am unsure if youre meaning the gear is flipped 180° it has more marks say as in face or back side. Is this what youre referring too? They are both facing up based off the line on the intake and exhaust gear. The dots are for advancing the timing but whether its from the dot or the line the vehicle should still start rough or not.
he dot marked in Red is what determines the "Front" of the Sprocket, yours is installed correctly, if you unscrew it, it is possible to flip it around back to front, causing that dot to end up in the Back, and the marks not to line up.
The dot marked in Yellow is a second Timing Mark, that's what I was referring to in the previous post, try to align those, and then check the alignment against the Harmonic Balancer, or a Crank Pulley, like it is shown in the diagrams linked earlier, it didn't get into any of the shots. Make sure that all 3 marks line up.
The line and dot are in the same spot both sides and theres a key way
What happens when you flip a Sprocket is you essentially Mirror it, so if we keep the Line fixed, the Dot will be mirrored to the other side of the Line. The way it supposed to be, the Dot should be to the Right of the Line (Leading in front of the Line), if you were to install the Sprocket backwards, the Dot will be to the Left of the Line (Trailing behind the Line), and that's where I got burned in my day.
A simple way to visualize it would be to look at the Sprocket head-on (doesn't matter from which side), note the position of one mark in relation to the other, then Flip the Sprocket and see what changes, it's easier to see than to explain.
Regardless, as written in the previous post, your Sprocket was installed correctly, and it wasn't the issue. Now the question is do ALL the marks line up, both Lines with one of the cutouts on a Harmonic Balancer, and the Dots with the other cutout on the Harmonic Balancer. If that's good, we can move on to something else.
They may have updated the gear cause whether the gear is flipped for me the dot still reappears to the right but yes the lower timing gear is aligned and pulley is set at 0
Well that throws a wrench into a number of things..
A telltale sign of the fact that you have pressure in the Fuel System would the the Pressure Dampener, it has a Screw on top that is connected directly to the membrane, if it is raised, the system has pressure, which should be enough to at least attempt starting. Also, I have no idea if you still have a Pressure Regulator under the hood, that would be the best way to see if you have enough pressure to start the car.
As it turns out, you have a turbocharged car, and it doesn't seem like there is much left that is still factory. The most basic step at the moment would be to retrace the work that you've done during the Radiator replacement, see if everything is where it should be, and that everything is plugged in. If that won't yield any results, you may need to see the Live Data from the ECU to continue the troubleshooting.
05-27-24, 08:02 PM
Jzs161 crank no start
