Ok, is it me or is this real? When i put the car in Eshift mode..it seems faster?
12-26-03, 09:25 AM
#1
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Ok, is it me or is this real? When i put the car in Eshift mode..it seems faster?
For instance, i will be going about 10mph...put it in eshift mode (not ect-power mode), punch the gas and i get whiplash. when it is in normal d mode (not ect-power mode) and punch it, i dont get whiplash. same with 0mph starts. the car just seems to respond faster off the line on eshift mode. now i know we cant shift down to gear 1...so why does it still seem faster in eshift mode? thanks
12-26-03, 10:18 AM
#2
E SHIFT...FASTER???
Hello and Merry Christmas.
This is a 50 /50 answer. It has been discussed before, but it bears repeating. In your specific case, the reason it feels faster is because when in E Shift, and the transmission is programmed to shift to 2nd, it goes to second and no higher. So when you are rolling along, the transmission will try to shift into 2nd very quickly. Then when you punch it, it SLAMS back into 1st, and you are on your way. Then you will have to shift up to 3rd very quickly.
You are right, there is no way to shift to first using "E" shift, but you CAN do it manually by putting the gear shift all the way down and across, and starting off in first. It WILL stay in first in that position. Only problem is...if you start off down there, your actual shifts will be slower, because you can't shift up fast enough to keep from hitting the rev limiter. If you hit the rev limiter, your shifts will be slower.
In "D", the VALVE BODY and COMPUTER control shift points. The computer can't guess when you are going to shift up manually, so it just winds until after you shift..(with the mandatory wait period, while the transmission tries to do what you just asked it to do.) That is also unnecessarily hard on the engine, because revs are up, and torque is already way past.
That is why when racing (who does that on the road?) it is best to leave the car in drive and let the computer shift the car at 6000 to 6100, which is just below the redline. I have tried it in all conditions,,,(as I am sure most GS owners have at one time or the other). I love the E shift for control on the run..(such as downshifting on a hill. It keeps my hands on the wheel, and not on the gearshift selecting gears.
I play with "E" shift a lot at times, but if I am serious about getting down the road, I just plant my foot down and hold on. I drive long distances most of the time, so I don't do too much shifting once up to speed. I "DO" keep 'E" shift engaged most of the time, however....just in case I need engine braking, or just want to play around between the gears every now and then. Having that extra degree of control feels good sometimes, but in actuality, in "D", the transmission does it best for quickness.
Who really cares if it is faster...as long as you are having fun??
Just my $.02
GSEREP1
This is a 50 /50 answer. It has been discussed before, but it bears repeating. In your specific case, the reason it feels faster is because when in E Shift, and the transmission is programmed to shift to 2nd, it goes to second and no higher. So when you are rolling along, the transmission will try to shift into 2nd very quickly. Then when you punch it, it SLAMS back into 1st, and you are on your way. Then you will have to shift up to 3rd very quickly.
You are right, there is no way to shift to first using "E" shift, but you CAN do it manually by putting the gear shift all the way down and across, and starting off in first. It WILL stay in first in that position. Only problem is...if you start off down there, your actual shifts will be slower, because you can't shift up fast enough to keep from hitting the rev limiter. If you hit the rev limiter, your shifts will be slower.
In "D", the VALVE BODY and COMPUTER control shift points. The computer can't guess when you are going to shift up manually, so it just winds until after you shift..(with the mandatory wait period, while the transmission tries to do what you just asked it to do.) That is also unnecessarily hard on the engine, because revs are up, and torque is already way past.
That is why when racing (who does that on the road?) it is best to leave the car in drive and let the computer shift the car at 6000 to 6100, which is just below the redline. I have tried it in all conditions,,,(as I am sure most GS owners have at one time or the other). I love the E shift for control on the run..(such as downshifting on a hill. It keeps my hands on the wheel, and not on the gearshift selecting gears.
I play with "E" shift a lot at times, but if I am serious about getting down the road, I just plant my foot down and hold on. I drive long distances most of the time, so I don't do too much shifting once up to speed. I "DO" keep 'E" shift engaged most of the time, however....just in case I need engine braking, or just want to play around between the gears every now and then. Having that extra degree of control feels good sometimes, but in actuality, in "D", the transmission does it best for quickness.
Who really cares if it is faster...as long as you are having fun??
Just my $.02
GSEREP1
Last edited by gserep1; 12-26-03 at 10:29 AM.
12-26-03, 10:39 AM
#3
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merry xmas! so it hurts our car to keep it in manual huh? well, for some reason my car just feels faster in m mode. hahah...thanks for all the info!
12-26-03, 11:20 AM
#5
Thanks LVANGUNDY,
At least YOU understand what I was trying so hard to say. Let's try it again...The engine is NOT designed to stay in the redline. That is what hurts the engine and transmission. The torque is long since past, and you are just spinning the engine unnecessarily.
If you feel the car is faster in "E" shift, so be it. Enjoy yourself...just watch your rpms. The damage is cumulative...meaning that in the long run it will take it's toll on the bottom end and valves. It is your car...do as you like. I am not a "granny" driver either. But I DO try to limit my fun and games, and I keep servicing my fluids to stay on top of the game. This AIN'T grandma's Oldsmobile, ha ha.
If you will notice in "E" shift, there is a point where the computer will not allow a downshift. THAT is the point where IF the downshift were allowed, it would result in excessive RPM's. I haven't checked exactly when you can't shift down to 3, but it is when vehicle speeds are very high. It will beep at you, and not allow the shift. You have to be going REALLY fast to not allow a downshift into 4th, but I'll bet there is a point where this will not be allowed. I don't want to find out when that is.
Besides, high rpms will cause you to use a lot more gas if you do it a lot. If you play, you gotta pay..(at the pump). You will also have to check your transmission fluid color and texture more often, because you will also get more wear due to undissipated heat. The fluid gets much hotter, and the fluid gets darker. I run hard, and then I drive sanely at 65 to 70 mph in 5th gear for a while to cool things down before putting my baby down for the night.
That is also why I have a Hayden 1405 Transmission cooler to help cool the fluid. You would be suprised at just how hot this fluid gets in normal driving. Sometimes when I am done for the day, I will leave the engine running, open the hood, and feel the new cooler at the top and bottom. I notice how hot the fluid is coming from the radiator cooler, and then how cool it is going back to the transmission...quite a difference. This hot fluid would be going back to the transmission. You can't do that without a transmission cooler, but you can get an idea by taking out the transmission dipstick and seeing how hot it is. Sometimes I can't keep my finger on the bottom of the metal dipstick.
Enjoy your car, but try not to break it, ha ha.
Respectfully,
GSEREP1
At least YOU understand what I was trying so hard to say. Let's try it again...The engine is NOT designed to stay in the redline. That is what hurts the engine and transmission. The torque is long since past, and you are just spinning the engine unnecessarily.
If you feel the car is faster in "E" shift, so be it. Enjoy yourself...just watch your rpms. The damage is cumulative...meaning that in the long run it will take it's toll on the bottom end and valves. It is your car...do as you like. I am not a "granny" driver either. But I DO try to limit my fun and games, and I keep servicing my fluids to stay on top of the game. This AIN'T grandma's Oldsmobile, ha ha.
If you will notice in "E" shift, there is a point where the computer will not allow a downshift. THAT is the point where IF the downshift were allowed, it would result in excessive RPM's. I haven't checked exactly when you can't shift down to 3, but it is when vehicle speeds are very high. It will beep at you, and not allow the shift. You have to be going REALLY fast to not allow a downshift into 4th, but I'll bet there is a point where this will not be allowed. I don't want to find out when that is.
Besides, high rpms will cause you to use a lot more gas if you do it a lot. If you play, you gotta pay..(at the pump). You will also have to check your transmission fluid color and texture more often, because you will also get more wear due to undissipated heat. The fluid gets much hotter, and the fluid gets darker. I run hard, and then I drive sanely at 65 to 70 mph in 5th gear for a while to cool things down before putting my baby down for the night.
That is also why I have a Hayden 1405 Transmission cooler to help cool the fluid. You would be suprised at just how hot this fluid gets in normal driving. Sometimes when I am done for the day, I will leave the engine running, open the hood, and feel the new cooler at the top and bottom. I notice how hot the fluid is coming from the radiator cooler, and then how cool it is going back to the transmission...quite a difference. This hot fluid would be going back to the transmission. You can't do that without a transmission cooler, but you can get an idea by taking out the transmission dipstick and seeing how hot it is. Sometimes I can't keep my finger on the bottom of the metal dipstick.
Enjoy your car, but try not to break it, ha ha.
Respectfully,
GSEREP1
Last edited by gserep1; 12-27-03 at 09:35 AM.
12-26-03, 02:12 PM
#6
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haha, yes i understand the rpm thing. i was just thinking in regards to shifting during e shift. i misread what you were saying. I am not a noobie when it comes to cars...hahah..well sortof. anyways, w/ ur tranny fluid cooler, where did u get that? how much does it cost?
12-26-03, 10:29 PM
#7
The cooler is a Hayden, and it is sold at Pep Boys for $45. to $50 bucks. The kit is complete, but you will need 3 feet of line instead of the 2 feet they give you.
GSEREP1
GSEREP1
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12-27-03, 03:05 AM
#8
EV ftw!!!
Originally posted by gserep1
The cooler is a Hayden, and it is sold at Pep Boys for $45. to $50 bucks. The kit is complete, but you will need 3 feet of line instead of the 2 feet they give you.
GSEREP1
The cooler is a Hayden, and it is sold at Pep Boys for $45. to $50 bucks. The kit is complete, but you will need 3 feet of line instead of the 2 feet they give you.
GSEREP1
12-27-03, 09:41 AM
#9
Will Look For A Source
Hameed,
I am not sure where, but I will look around and get back to you. Luckily, I got mine as an early Christmas present, so I put it on right away.
GSEREP1
I am not sure where, but I will look around and get back to you. Luckily, I got mine as an early Christmas present, so I put it on right away.
GSEREP1
12-27-03, 10:06 AM
#10
FOUND A SOURCE
WELL,
I looked around a bit on the web and found that many coolers are available at:
http://www.bulkpart.com. I used the GOOGLE.COM search engine, typing in "Hayden Transmission coolers", and found a lot of hits.
I am sure that most of these parts can be shipped to Canada.
Happy shopping,
GSEREP1
I looked around a bit on the web and found that many coolers are available at:
http://www.bulkpart.com. I used the GOOGLE.COM search engine, typing in "Hayden Transmission coolers", and found a lot of hits.
I am sure that most of these parts can be shipped to Canada.
Happy shopping,
GSEREP1
Last edited by gserep1; 12-27-03 at 10:20 AM.
12-29-03, 08:31 PM
#11
Lexus Champion
Well January will be my "cooler month" meaning I will be installing a Permacool ATF cooler along with a Permacool oil cooler with the remote oil filter relocation kit as well as my HKS type-S front mount intercooler. Then it will be time to get a new front bumper coz it will be hard to fit all these 3 coolers in the front of the car behind a stock (very restrictive) front bumper!!!!
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