Please post pics of your grounding kits!
#33
Originally Posted by Intellexual
Yea I'd like to know exactly where the recommended GS400 mounting points are too so I can make my own!
Intellexual: Looks like most kits have eight wires and we'll of couse need the lenths of each wire and their mounting locations. There have got to be some instructions posted up online on how to install one of these kits, lets just use that, then build our own.
#34
I think just the locations and where they connect to would be good enough for me -- I think the exact lengths are unnecessary as we all probably have our own ideal ways of routing these wires and exactly how much 'slack' in the wires we want.
#35
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Originally Posted by Intellexual
Yea I'd like to know exactly where the recommended GS400 mounting points are too so I can make my own!
#37
Northern California Regional Officer
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If you look at the photos provided, you will see all the grounding points used. You just need to measure how much wire you need to run from point A to B. The Apexi appears to be a generic kit, so it sounds like the grounding locations are up to you.
Here's the catch with making your own. You MUST solder all the connections or the grounding effectiveness will deteriorate over time. The engine compartment heat and moisture will eventually cause corrosion on the bare copper wire, rendering the kit in-effective. In order to solder a 4 gauge wire, you'll need a big ***** hi temp iron with a large tip. You cannot use a standard Rat Shack iron for this.
I priced out the cost of purchasing such an iron, plus the cost of wire and crimps. If you pay yourself minimum wage to do the work, you will just about break even.
Now if you already have the iron, the time and can get wire cheap are a DIY type of person or just care about looks, go for it.
Here's the catch with making your own. You MUST solder all the connections or the grounding effectiveness will deteriorate over time. The engine compartment heat and moisture will eventually cause corrosion on the bare copper wire, rendering the kit in-effective. In order to solder a 4 gauge wire, you'll need a big ***** hi temp iron with a large tip. You cannot use a standard Rat Shack iron for this.
I priced out the cost of purchasing such an iron, plus the cost of wire and crimps. If you pay yourself minimum wage to do the work, you will just about break even.
Now if you already have the iron, the time and can get wire cheap are a DIY type of person or just care about looks, go for it.
Last edited by RMMGS4; 04-06-05 at 12:59 PM.
#38
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Originally Posted by jtanoyo1
4. Positive battery terminal to chassis
#39
Honestly, from the pictures I just see a lot of wires....it's hard to tell where one starts and another begins.
Also, I don't agree that the terminals have to be soldered, stock wiring is almost always crimped. If you have a good crimper, that connection can be as good or even superior to a soldered connection in terms of longevity.
Also, I don't agree that the terminals have to be soldered, stock wiring is almost always crimped. If you have a good crimper, that connection can be as good or even superior to a soldered connection in terms of longevity.
#42
Lexus Test Driver
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Originally Posted by Intellexual
2 gauge would be overkill, 4 gauge is fine. 8 gauge would probably even work.
#43
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how come no one is coming out and saying where the points are. pics can only do so much, im better with directions telling me from point a to point b. i had started threads before asking where to install and still, till this day, no one has come forth with the directions..wheres the love?
#44
Northern California Regional Officer
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Originally Posted by Intellexual
Honestly, from the pictures I just see a lot of wires....it's hard to tell where one starts and another begins.
Also, I don't agree that the terminals have to be soldered, stock wiring is almost always crimped. If you have a good crimper, that connection can be as good or even superior to a soldered connection in terms of longevity.
Also, I don't agree that the terminals have to be soldered, stock wiring is almost always crimped. If you have a good crimper, that connection can be as good or even superior to a soldered connection in terms of longevity.
Soldering offers a better connection in terms of measured resistance and minimizing corrosion of the copper strands.
These ground wires are attempting to improve on the existing ground potential of these ground points, so it only makes sense to do everything possible to do "BETTER" than the factory crimp. The second aspect of improvement is obviously to increase the gauge of the wire. Going to a 4 gauge wire is already on the verge of overkill, but it looks good, doesn't hurt and again we're trying to tweek out the last drop of performance from this mod.
From a manufacturing standpoint, the factory does things that are cost effective and practical in terms of return on investment. Soldering wires is not cost effective in the sense that the performance gained may not be justified in how the general consuming public will perceive value in the increased cost of the car.
Those of us willing to spend the extra dollar to improve on the factory wiring will do this mod. Some may do it for looks.
The ORIGINAL grounding kits ALL used soldered connections, but I can't speak for the APEXi or other generic ground kit copy cats.
#45
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Originally Posted by ILOVEGIRLS
how come no one is coming out and saying where the points are. pics can only do so much, im better with directions telling me from point a to point b. i had started threads before asking where to install and still, till this day, no one has come forth with the directions..wheres the love?