RMMGS4

iTrader: (5)

Looks like I'm reading your mind.

See my previous post.

I don't recall commenting to that extent about different OEM spoilers. I removed a factory spoiler and filled in the holes on Jawnthen's car and we installed a Sportdesign look-a-like lip spoiler which looked pretty close to OEM.

We only used double stick tape to hold it on. That appears adequate, but I assure you, Lexus does more than that to hold on their OEM spoilers.

RMMGS4

iTrader: (5)

The RMM spoiler on my car DOES have bolts holding it from the back side and YES the rear sheetmetal was cleared away in order to attach the bolts.

The RMM spoiler looks very close to stock but IMO better. The rear edge extends longer and turns up slightly. Also the front edge on the sides starts earlier and has a more gradual slope.

No need to ask for others on this particular part.

You see I know what I'm talking about !

I really can't speak on any other OEM look alikes. That subject, I know very little.

e-man

Okay. So I think we're getting somewhere here. So unless you use rivets, you would need to clear away a little of the inner sheet metal to access the bolts and tighten the nuts. If that's the case, I'm thinking I could still use the OEM spoiler with the brackets and attach the brackets to the trunk with nuts/bolts. Or, to play it safe, I could have Lexus attach it with rivets (assuming they have a rivet gun, which might be a big assumption).

By the way, I bought jawnthen's old spoiler, but it got damaged in transit (I started a whole thread on this to explain what happened) and I ended up selling it for much less than I paid for it.

Lastly, I hope you weren't insulted that I asked other people to jump in. I know you know what you're talking about on this issue, but I just wanted to get some other perspectives as well, particularly those who own OEM-style replicas.

RMMGS4

iTrader: (5)

Nah I'm just messin with ya.

If you use long bolts to hold the factory spoiler brackets, I think you will have a lot more flexibility to adjust the spoiler cause you can just drill a slighly larger hole drilled in the bracket allowing you to move the spoiler to the right position, then just tighten them down.

You could also just put really long bolts that go through both layers of metal. I'd guess two 3/16 or 1/4" diameter bolts per side should be adequate. Use washers on both ends and Loctite the threads. Also throw some RTV silicone glue between the bracket and the hole in the deck lid so water doesn't get in the trunk.

e-man

Okay. I understood the second paragraph, but not the first. How would using really long bolts allow me to adjust the brackets? Regardless of the length of the bolts, wouldn't the positioning of the brackets depend on where I drill the holes in the trunk lid?

chuckb

I think he means you could have a little bit of leeway if you use bolts because you could slot or enlarge the holes a little and move the brackets slightly before you tighten them in the spot you like. The rivets are a permanent one position only mount.

e-man

Thanks, Chuck. Now I get it. The whole process sounds like a lot of drilling to me, don't you think? I know I would be better off finding someone to trade trunk lids with me, and there's someone in Austin who is willing to trade, but I'm in Chicago, so that's a problem. I think the easiest thing to do would be to just buy the OEM spoiler/brackets and slap it on. It's too bad, though, because I know there have to be people out there who are looking for a clean trunk lid in my color.

RMMGS4

iTrader: (5)

A little time and patience and you might find someone local who wants to trade.

Don't enlargen the holes in the rear deck lid. Make them the same diameter as the bolt you choose. Just enlargen the hole in the bracket and use a washer. When it is tight it should stay in place.

Throw a gob of Permatex black silicone RTV between the bracket and the lid and it will keep it from moving around as well.

Good Luck.

e-man

I found someone local who wanted to trade, but his car was millenium silver (01 430), so we would both have to repaint, and that didn't seem worth it.

I think the trunk swap makes a lot more sense just because it reduces the margin for error.

Now I understand what you're saying about the holes. Basically, what you're saying, is that if the bracket is a little off, I can make the hole in the bracket bigger to move it into place and then tighten it down. As a result, the bolt will be at a slight angle, but once it is tightened down, it shouldn't make a difference. I think I'll buy the spoiler/brackets, and at the same time keep looking around for someone to trade trunks with until I decide what I want to do. Thanks for all of your help.