GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Does the timing belt only last 5 years, regardless of mileage?

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Old 05-05-05, 02:06 AM
  #31  
ballin
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Default Timing belts

I was wandering if anyone knows if the timing belt on 2JZ-ge motor are the same as belts on the 2JZ-gt ? If its good enough for Turboed engines it should be better for NA , right?
Old 05-05-05, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Billh2
I have been told that the orginal 1UZFE is non-interference at 10-1 compression. In 1995 They increased compression, going to 10.4-1 and it is an interference engine. With the 10.5-1 VVTi in the GS400, SC400 and LS400 from 1998 on engines are all interference.
The doc I attached is for a 95 SC4. I was also looking at diagrams for the 4.3L V8 and that also has the depressions on the piston heads.
Old 05-05-05, 02:37 AM
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babyGS3
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so the 2jz is a non int engine? My freakin car is reaching 6 yrs already. I bet the stealership will charge me upwards of 1200 for replacement.
Old 05-05-05, 08:40 AM
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T.L.W.

You go the FSM, if you follow that, you will be able to change the belt with ease, with this one little secret.

Once you get the timing belt crakshaft 60 degree BDTC and the camshafts pulleys lined up on the 30 degrees BTDC marks, put the timing belt on on the crankshaft FIRST and work your way up on the right side away from the tensioner. Get the belts on the camshafts and there should be looseness on the tensioner side. Now before pullng the ring out of the tensionerPlace a pair of vise grips on both camshaft pulleys so the camshaft pulleys will move together when the tensioner tightens up the belt. At this point everything should still be lined up. ALl youhave to do is turn the crankshaft 2 revolutions and make sure everything is still lined up but this time TDC instead of BTDC.

And that's it. If Iwould have known about the vise grips 4 maybe 5 hours earlier, I would have had my car put back together a lot quicker.

Sidney
Old 05-05-05, 08:49 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by sxwk12
T.L.W.

You go the FSM, if you follow that, you will be able to change the belt with ease, with this one little secret.

Once you get the timing belt crakshaft 60 degree BDTC and the camshafts pulleys lined up on the 30 degrees BTDC marks, put the timing belt on on the crankshaft FIRST and work your way up on the right side away from the tensioner. Get the belts on the camshafts and there should be looseness on the tensioner side. Now before pullng the ring out of the tensionerPlace a pair of vise grips on both camshaft pulleys so the camshaft pulleys will move together when the tensioner tightens up the belt. At this point everything should still be lined up. ALl youhave to do is turn the crankshaft 2 revolutions and make sure everything is still lined up but this time TDC instead of BTDC.

And that's it. If Iwould have known about the vise grips 4 maybe 5 hours earlier, I would have had my car put back together a lot quicker.

Sidney

good looking out Sidney

thanks

maybe i will attempt this winter
Old 05-05-05, 08:55 AM
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It was the first time I ever attempted it on any car. Luckily Ihad my dad who has done it before but it has been years and years since he's done it.

I called a friend who is a mechanic and he was the one with the vise grips trick.

I say, if you or anyone have ever worked on a car before, you would be able to do this as long as you follow the instructions in the FSM, have the right tools (breaker bar is a must) and use the vise grips trick.

Remember what I say, "If someone else can do it, so can I." And I proved that by changing my own timing belt, camshaft oil seals, 2 O2 sensors, and related gaskets. And this weekend I will be changing the Timing Camshaft Oil Control Valve to get rid of the P1349 code.

Sidney
Old 05-05-05, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ntran18
The doc I attached is for a 95 SC4. I was also looking at diagrams for the 4.3L V8 and that also has the depressions on the piston heads.
A lot of engines have depressions in the piston heads. (We call them valve notches) Just because an engine has them does not mean that it won't bend valves if the camshaft is out of time due to either a miss-installed or broken timing belt. The 3UZFE engine is most definitely an interference engine.
Old 05-31-05, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ntran18
The doc I attached is for a 95 SC4. I was also looking at diagrams for the 4.3L V8 and that also has the depressions on the piston heads.
That is the problem. Although Lexus changed the engine on the 1995 LS400 they waited until 1996 for the SC400. 1990-1994 LS400s and 1992-1995 SC400s are NON-interference. All later models are INTERFERENCE.

The interesting thing here is that the belt change interval on the early non-Interference engines is only 60k vs the 90k on later interference engines. There have been a number of guys going well over 120k on early engines before the belt broke. Of course no serious engine damage occured. Later engines belts should be replaced around 90k even though they are not likely to fail that soon. Later engines can be DESTROYED with a timing belt failure. My buddies 1990 Infiniti Q45 lost its timing chain (plastic tensioner) at 100k and engine spit a rod out the side of the block

I am about to do a timing belt on my LS400. Since I am doing the work I do not intend to replace the water pump. It will probably go until next belt change at 160k. If not, I will of course redo it and change the belt at the same time along with new tensioners and anything else INOR.
Old 05-31-05, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrady
That is the problem. Although Lexus changed the engine on the 1995 LS400 they waited until 1996 for the SC400. 1990-1994 LS400s and 1992-1995 SC400s are NON-interference. All later models are INTERFERENCE.

The interesting thing here is that the belt change interval on the early non-Interference engines is only 60k vs the 90k on later interference engines. There have been a number of guys going well over 120k on early engines before the belt broke. Of course no serious engine damage occured. Later engines belts should be replaced around 90k even though they are not likely to fail that soon. Later engines can be DESTROYED with a timing belt failure. My buddies 1990 Infiniti Q45 lost its timing chain (plastic tensioner) at 100k and engine spit a rod out the side of the block

I am about to do a timing belt on my LS400. Since I am doing the work I do not intend to replace the water pump. It will probably go until next belt change at 160k. If not, I will of course redo it and change the belt at the same time along with new tensioners and anything else INOR.
JB
for the FI guys should we change sooner than the stock guys

right now i have 42k miles and planned on changing this winter

ill probably be less than 60 k by then but what are your thoughts ??
Old 05-31-05, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrady
That is the problem. Although Lexus changed the engine on the 1995 LS400 they waited until 1996 for the SC400. 1990-1994 LS400s and 1992-1995 SC400s are NON-interference. All later models are INTERFERENCE.

The interesting thing here is that the belt change interval on the early non-Interference engines is only 60k vs the 90k on later interference engines. There have been a number of guys going well over 120k on early engines before the belt broke. Of course no serious engine damage occured. Later engines belts should be replaced around 90k even though they are not likely to fail that soon. Later engines can be DESTROYED with a timing belt failure. My buddies 1990 Infiniti Q45 lost its timing chain (plastic tensioner) at 100k and engine spit a rod out the side of the block

I am about to do a timing belt on my LS400. Since I am doing the work I do not intend to replace the water pump. It will probably go until next belt change at 160k. If not, I will of course redo it and change the belt at the same time along with new tensioners and anything else INOR.
Years ago a guy who worked for Mr. Gasket made a cut-away small block Chev engine. (Cut the block and heads apart, installed a camshaft, lifters pushrods and valves) They hooked it up to an electric motor so it was rotating and you could see all of the internal parts. First time I saw it was at SEMA. A lot of people, including some engine builders, were very surprised to see just how close everything is, pistons chasing the valves etc. When you consider that .090 was the minimum acceptable clearance between the valves and the pistons, things get tight in a hurry.
Old 05-31-05, 09:18 PM
  #41  
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i changed my serpentine and timing belt, and got a coolant flush (you have to drain the radiator to do the job, according to toyota) for $400 at my local toyota dealership!!! my car, a 99 gs400, had 93k miles on it, and the toyota tech gave me the old belts. he said the timing belt could have gone at LEAST 2 more years before changing.

3 months later, everything is fine, but if something happens to my engine like mister P's car, i'm gonna go back there with the lawyer! but in reality, it doesnt seem likely. toyota did a great job for a great price!
Old 06-01-05, 12:01 AM
  #42  
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I went 10 years on my 1994 Acura Legend Coupe, just had the Timing and all belts replaced last Spring.... Only had 42K...Belts still looked like they could of went for another 2-5 years.

wow i got the same car a 94 acura legend coupe Type II 6spd and i think its still on its orignal timing belt and waterpump at 185k miles
yes it can happen but will it maybe or maybe not imma change it soon with everything
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