Any issues with using belt sander to shave fender?
03-19-05, 06:34 PM
#1
Any issues with using belt sander to shave fender?
Just put on my iForged 19"s with 245/40-19 front and 275/35-19 rear = Fat Setup. The rears are rubbing, no great surprise, I think the offset is too low. I read all the "fender rubbing" posts, thanks. The only question I have is whether there are any issues when using the belt sander to shave the rear fender lip. RMMGS4 mentioned that there might be. I've never used a belt sander before, but I've very mechanically inclined, and wondering whether there's anything I need to watch out for. ???
Advice appreciated.
Advice appreciated.
03-19-05, 07:03 PM
#2
YO
Don't sand on the same spot on the belt. Move across the face of the belt back and forth to wear it out evenly. If you wear a groove in the belt down the center, change the belt with a new one before you cut through. This is critical, cause if you cut through there's a chance that the belt will split in two or shred apart. The effect can be like a truck tire exploding going 60mph. The problem is not so much being injured, it's the paper pieces that stay attached can slap against the paint before you get a chance to react. This is why for precautionary measures, I'd recommend putting a double layer of duct tape on the painted outside surface of the fender. You might put the first layer of masking tape before applying duct tape, cause the adhesive from the duct tape will stay on the paint when you remove it.
Look at pics of the sanding from the old threads. I keep the sander at a 45 degree angle on the inside of the wheel well. Grab a small stool or something to sit on cause you'll get tired holding the sander after a while.
If you are ambitious and want to cut through quickly, use 50 grit sandpaper. If you wanna gain some practice first, then start with 80 or 100 grit.
If you do 100 grit, you could be there for a very long time as Rominl found out at 1am doing his fenders at my house, with no store open to buy 80 grit.
Use some safety glasses since the fine metal particles will be aimed right at you.
I also use a piece of tape on the lip as a guide of how much to take off. It's not easy to eyeball it without the tape and you can cut crooked if you dion't have it as a guide.
Take a look at the "INDGOGRL" "My IS Story" Page #11 thread where I had more shots of the taping process.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ighlight=story
On INDGOGRL's car I painted the edge with rust inhibiting paint and then put a strip of black plastic door edge guard for a finished look.
Good Luck
Don't sand on the same spot on the belt. Move across the face of the belt back and forth to wear it out evenly. If you wear a groove in the belt down the center, change the belt with a new one before you cut through. This is critical, cause if you cut through there's a chance that the belt will split in two or shred apart. The effect can be like a truck tire exploding going 60mph. The problem is not so much being injured, it's the paper pieces that stay attached can slap against the paint before you get a chance to react. This is why for precautionary measures, I'd recommend putting a double layer of duct tape on the painted outside surface of the fender. You might put the first layer of masking tape before applying duct tape, cause the adhesive from the duct tape will stay on the paint when you remove it.
Look at pics of the sanding from the old threads. I keep the sander at a 45 degree angle on the inside of the wheel well. Grab a small stool or something to sit on cause you'll get tired holding the sander after a while.
If you are ambitious and want to cut through quickly, use 50 grit sandpaper. If you wanna gain some practice first, then start with 80 or 100 grit.
If you do 100 grit, you could be there for a very long time as Rominl found out at 1am doing his fenders at my house, with no store open to buy 80 grit.
Use some safety glasses since the fine metal particles will be aimed right at you.
I also use a piece of tape on the lip as a guide of how much to take off. It's not easy to eyeball it without the tape and you can cut crooked if you dion't have it as a guide.
Take a look at the "INDGOGRL" "My IS Story" Page #11 thread where I had more shots of the taping process.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ighlight=story
On INDGOGRL's car I painted the edge with rust inhibiting paint and then put a strip of black plastic door edge guard for a finished look.
Good Luck
Last edited by RMMGS4; 03-20-05 at 01:42 AM.
03-19-05, 07:39 PM
#3
Well, I learned from RMMGS4 and jawnthen. 
I think RMMGS4 covered the important issues. I only did this when I was at jawnthen's house. Since then, I've had to fine tune with a bit more shaving. I used an angle grinder though. I bought this (after the belt sander session) for some work on the house and found it easier and more precise. It does spit out debris at somewhat high velocity. Because of this, to CYA, all the taping RMMGS4 talked about still applies. If you use it in the right direction, though, the debris will fly into the wheel well so it is not so bad.
Obviously, safety goggles are a must.
I think RMMGS4 covered the important issues. I only did this when I was at jawnthen's house. Since then, I've had to fine tune with a bit more shaving. I used an angle grinder though. I bought this (after the belt sander session) for some work on the house and found it easier and more precise. It does spit out debris at somewhat high velocity. Because of this, to CYA, all the taping RMMGS4 talked about still applies. If you use it in the right direction, though, the debris will fly into the wheel well so it is not so bad.
Obviously, safety goggles are a must.
03-19-05, 07:56 PM
#4
Beautiful - thanks so much for the replies. I just got back from Home Cheapo and bought an 18" belt sander AND an angle grinder, along with 50 and 80 grit belts, so I guess I'm ready to go. I'll be doing it tomorrow morning. Can't drive the car unless I fix it or I swap rear wheels again.
Thanks!!! 
Thanks!!!
03-19-05, 08:11 PM
#5
Originally Posted by engin_ear
Beautiful - thanks so much for the replies. I just got back from Home Cheapo and bought an 18" belt sander AND an angle grinder, along with 50 and 80 grit belts, so I guess I'm ready to go. I'll be doing it tomorrow morning. Can't drive the car unless I fix it or I swap rear wheels again.
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!
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03-20-05, 07:44 PM
#8
Got one side done today, but had to quit due to NJ rains. Nothing like using electrical equipment in the rain. Left side is now free of hitting, amazing how just 1/4" makes all the difference. Have to do the same on right once the rain clears. I used a combination of belt sander and angle grinder, alternately. Seemed like the 50 grit belt sander took material off faster, but the grinder smoothed it out better. I used Permatex rust preventive on the bare edge.
03-21-05, 05:09 PM
#12
Originally Posted by b1gredek
maybe you should have gone with the 30 series tires instead of the 35's, 265 30's actually should get the job done.
Finished the job today. Got a couple of grittier belts (50 grit but not aluminum oxide) for the sander that took material off a lot quicker, so the second side only took me about a half hour. Problem cured. I must say it was fun getting my forehead beaten up by sparking debris from the angle grinder.
03-21-05, 05:17 PM
#13
Originally Posted by engin_ear
I must say it was fun getting my forehead beaten up by sparking debris from the angle grinder.
03-21-05, 09:01 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Neo
I wear a hat, safety goggles, and one of those dental masks. The maske only provide minimal protection but still better than nothing.