gs430 dynoed today
08-17-05, 07:14 AM
#31
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If you post your dyno chart I can take a look at it. There are different routes you can go. Your setup may not be maximized the way it sits. So before you go adding things, you may want fine tune what you have...
08-17-05, 12:56 PM
#32
Lexus Test Driver
I can tell you from experience that dyno numbers vary widely from place to place for a variety of reasons. The first one is tuner. The second is conditions. The third is equipment (in the car).
BTW, you certainly CAN run N2O (it's not NOS folks!!!! NOS is a BRAND
) AND FI all day long. It's done all the time, so it most certainly CAN be done. Does Rick need it? Doubtful unless he wants it for show purposes in which case then Yes. Performance wise? There are far easier and more importantly CHEAPER ways to turn up the power now that he has the hardware.
I would suggest, as others have:
1. smaller pulley. 6psi is going to get you around where you're at regardless, so you're not really that far off the mark. If you can muster 8psi out of it, then you'll be closer to your desired mark. Most of us that ran/run your setup initially ran in the 350's the first time out of the gate. We kept tweaking and ended up at the numbers our friend Dave has graciously compilled somewhere around here. So, just because you got a number in the beginning doesn't mean you can't get more.
2. Bypass valve is not going to increase the numbers all that much if any. Bypass valve keeps pressure from slapping the back of the charger when you slam the throttle closed after boosting. It makes your system work better. It certainly prolongs charger life. I don't see it getting you 60 HP though.
3. What size injectors are your using?
4. The interceptor, how is it tuned? Is it via a laptop or is it have permanent maps already burned into it?
5. What size pulley are you using?
6. Can you put up a pic of your dyno chart? with A/F?
On our cars, the challange has always been the same when it comes to getting more boost out of the S/C's. The easy answer is to simply get a smaller pulley, right? Well, not that simple. Our crank pulley's size was not taken into consideration, purely my opinion here, when Vortech describes pulley size charts. According to Vortech, a 3.12 pulley should NET us about 8 psi or something. That's far from reality. The only logical thing that I can think of as to WHY that is.....our crank pulley is smaller than what they think and therefore it may net 8 psi on a Mustang, but not on a Lexus.
Again, this is only my observation because I personally tried 4-5 different pulley combos trying to get to 10 psi and it never worked like Vortech said it would. According to them, with a 2.87 pulley we should be somewhere north of 15psi.....WRONG!!!
Anyway, that's been my experience.
BTW, you certainly CAN run N2O (it's not NOS folks!!!! NOS is a BRAND
) AND FI all day long. It's done all the time, so it most certainly CAN be done. Does Rick need it? Doubtful unless he wants it for show purposes in which case then Yes. Performance wise? There are far easier and more importantly CHEAPER ways to turn up the power now that he has the hardware. I would suggest, as others have:
1. smaller pulley. 6psi is going to get you around where you're at regardless, so you're not really that far off the mark. If you can muster 8psi out of it, then you'll be closer to your desired mark. Most of us that ran/run your setup initially ran in the 350's the first time out of the gate. We kept tweaking and ended up at the numbers our friend Dave has graciously compilled somewhere around here. So, just because you got a number in the beginning doesn't mean you can't get more.
2. Bypass valve is not going to increase the numbers all that much if any. Bypass valve keeps pressure from slapping the back of the charger when you slam the throttle closed after boosting. It makes your system work better. It certainly prolongs charger life. I don't see it getting you 60 HP though.
3. What size injectors are your using?
4. The interceptor, how is it tuned? Is it via a laptop or is it have permanent maps already burned into it?
5. What size pulley are you using?
6. Can you put up a pic of your dyno chart? with A/F?
On our cars, the challange has always been the same when it comes to getting more boost out of the S/C's. The easy answer is to simply get a smaller pulley, right? Well, not that simple. Our crank pulley's size was not taken into consideration, purely my opinion here, when Vortech describes pulley size charts. According to Vortech, a 3.12 pulley should NET us about 8 psi or something. That's far from reality. The only logical thing that I can think of as to WHY that is.....our crank pulley is smaller than what they think and therefore it may net 8 psi on a Mustang, but not on a Lexus.
Again, this is only my observation because I personally tried 4-5 different pulley combos trying to get to 10 psi and it never worked like Vortech said it would. According to them, with a 2.87 pulley we should be somewhere north of 15psi.....WRONG!!! Anyway, that's been my experience.
08-17-05, 01:38 PM
#33
Lexus Champion
Originally Posted by jmecbr900
I can tell you from experience that dyno numbers vary widely from place to place for a variety of reasons. The first one is tuner. The second is conditions. The third is equipment (in the car).
BTW, you certainly CAN run N2O (it's not NOS folks!!!! NOS is a BRAND ) AND FI all day long. It's done all the time, so it most certainly CAN be done. Does Rick need it? Doubtful unless he wants it for show purposes in which case then Yes. Performance wise? There are far easier and more importantly CHEAPER ways to turn up the power now that he has the hardware.
I would suggest, as others have:
1. smaller pulley. 6psi is going to get you around where you're at regardless, so you're not really that far off the mark. If you can muster 8psi out of it, then you'll be closer to your desired mark. Most of us that ran/run your setup initially ran in the 350's the first time out of the gate. We kept tweaking and ended up at the numbers our friend Dave has graciously compilled somewhere around here. So, just because you got a number in the beginning doesn't mean you can't get more.
2. Bypass valve is not going to increase the numbers all that much if any. Bypass valve keeps pressure from slapping the back of the charger when you slam the throttle closed after boosting. It makes your system work better. It certainly prolongs charger life. I don't see it getting you 60 HP though.
3. What size injectors are your using?
4. The interceptor, how is it tuned? Is it via a laptop or is it have permanent maps already burned into it?
5. What size pulley are you using?
6. Can you put up a pic of your dyno chart? with A/F?
On our cars, the challange has always been the same when it comes to getting more boost out of the S/C's. The easy answer is to simply get a smaller pulley, right? Well, not that simple. Our crank pulley's size was not taken into consideration, purely my opinion here, when Vortech describes pulley size charts. According to Vortech, a 3.12 pulley should NET us about 8 psi or something. That's far from reality. The only logical thing that I can think of as to WHY that is.....our crank pulley is smaller than what they think and therefore it may net 8 psi on a Mustang, but not on a Lexus. Again, this is only my observation because I personally tried 4-5 different pulley combos trying to get to 10 psi and it never worked like Vortech said it would. According to them, with a 2.87 pulley we should be somewhere north of 15psi.....WRONG!!!
Anyway, that's been my experience.
BTW, you certainly CAN run N2O (it's not NOS folks!!!! NOS is a BRAND
) AND FI all day long. It's done all the time, so it most certainly CAN be done. Does Rick need it? Doubtful unless he wants it for show purposes in which case then Yes. Performance wise? There are far easier and more importantly CHEAPER ways to turn up the power now that he has the hardware. I would suggest, as others have:
1. smaller pulley. 6psi is going to get you around where you're at regardless, so you're not really that far off the mark. If you can muster 8psi out of it, then you'll be closer to your desired mark. Most of us that ran/run your setup initially ran in the 350's the first time out of the gate. We kept tweaking and ended up at the numbers our friend Dave has graciously compilled somewhere around here. So, just because you got a number in the beginning doesn't mean you can't get more.
2. Bypass valve is not going to increase the numbers all that much if any. Bypass valve keeps pressure from slapping the back of the charger when you slam the throttle closed after boosting. It makes your system work better. It certainly prolongs charger life. I don't see it getting you 60 HP though.
3. What size injectors are your using?
4. The interceptor, how is it tuned? Is it via a laptop or is it have permanent maps already burned into it?
5. What size pulley are you using?
6. Can you put up a pic of your dyno chart? with A/F?
On our cars, the challange has always been the same when it comes to getting more boost out of the S/C's. The easy answer is to simply get a smaller pulley, right? Well, not that simple. Our crank pulley's size was not taken into consideration, purely my opinion here, when Vortech describes pulley size charts. According to Vortech, a 3.12 pulley should NET us about 8 psi or something. That's far from reality. The only logical thing that I can think of as to WHY that is.....our crank pulley is smaller than what they think and therefore it may net 8 psi on a Mustang, but not on a Lexus.
Again, this is only my observation because I personally tried 4-5 different pulley combos trying to get to 10 psi and it never worked like Vortech said it would. According to them, with a 2.87 pulley we should be somewhere north of 15psi.....WRONG!!! Anyway, that's been my experience.
Good post. Fuel requirements are VERY important.
Regarding boost levels, most people do not understand what boost is. Boost is the pressure generated between the compressor outlet and the intake valves in the engine. It is a measurement of volume. The relationship of volume the COMPRESSOR flows relative to the amount of volume the ENGINE can flow determines boost. Volume is effected by heat. The hotter the charge air the higher the boost. This does NOT mean more power. An intercooler lowers the heat and lowers the boost for a given pulley set up but it makes MORE power.
Other things can effect boost. Increasing the engines ability to flow will lower boost READINGS. However, the engine will flow more MASS (chemical weight) and therefore make more power. Porting the heads, installing headers, improving intercooler efficiency will lower boost but increase mass flow and power.
Phew...
Now, Vortech may be miscalculating the flow capability of our 4 liter engines. If they presume the flow of a OHV 4 liter V6 then the boost will be higher (power lower).
Also, the SC itself is subject to the air pressure available to compress. IF the inlet is restricted the boost will be lower than expected. You may have heard the term "Power Pipe". This is a larger diameter pipe from the air cleaner to the SC inlet. This reduces restriction and generates more boost with NO other changes.
08-17-05, 02:12 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by jbrady
Jaime,
Boost is the pressure generated between the compressor outlet and the intake valves in the engine. It is a measurement of volume. The relationship of volume the COMPRESSOR flows relative to the amount of volume the ENGINE can flow determines boost.
Boost is the pressure generated between the compressor outlet and the intake valves in the engine. It is a measurement of volume. The relationship of volume the COMPRESSOR flows relative to the amount of volume the ENGINE can flow determines boost.
Of course, Volume of that gas has a huge factoring in determining air, but it's the compression of the volume of air that determines the "boost" or pressure. So if you have X volume of air in a 10 gallon tank and X volume of air in a 20 gallon tank, obviously, you'll have less pressure or (PSI) in the 20 gallon tank. So "boost" isn't the measurement of volume.
As for FI + N2O, detonation is half the problem. You also need internals that can handle the increase in power. I dunno how strong the pistons, rods, gaskets and piston rings are in the V8, but those will bend, melt or crack at a certain point, even if you have a perfect air/fuel mixture. Of course, if you have a 2jzgte, then no problem. Those components will handle even 800+hp safely.
Last edited by jskim9; 08-17-05 at 02:19 PM.
08-17-05, 04:27 PM
#35
Lexus Champion
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jamie,
not surw hwat pulleys i have now,, what even RMM offers with the kit is what i got on it, secondly the halltech was tuned using the laptop, im runnin stock injectors right now but i do have some 310cc injectors that i can throw in there.. also i have been talkin to morris baout the pulley setup he had pervsiou on his gs4...
any more help woud be greatly appreciated..
also n20 would be used for SHOWs, just to have you know how the show scene is gettin
not surw hwat pulleys i have now,, what even RMM offers with the kit is what i got on it, secondly the halltech was tuned using the laptop, im runnin stock injectors right now but i do have some 310cc injectors that i can throw in there.. also i have been talkin to morris baout the pulley setup he had pervsiou on his gs4...
any more help woud be greatly appreciated..
also n20 would be used for SHOWs, just to have you know how the show scene is gettin
08-17-05, 06:09 PM
#36
You could get alot of gains by adding the nx set-up on your car.Their is some worked involved but you would be happy!!!I know of someone running a s/c and n2o on top of that and it was just insane.Your tranny howerver might not like it.You could always run a rpm switch to turn on and off the n2o before your shifts.
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