Dukespeed

iTrader: (1)

I believe I have a small leak from the pan gasket. This is a two stage pan that requires removal of the engine to fix properly I believe. Anyone have any suggestions on this. Does anyone know any experts in Houston. I guess if I gotta yank the engine out good time to replace engine mounts and so on. Bad day for the gs. Oh well at 136k things like this happen.

MP

gserep1

Have you identified the source of your leak? The bottom part of the oil pan is a stamped steel, and the part it connects to is also part of the pan, but it is made of aluminum. That part gives structural rigidity to the block.

I see no reason why you can't remove the steel oil PAN without removing the engine. The aluminum part is a bit trickier. So which one is leaking?

The pan is sealed by a portion of adhesive, instead of a gasket, altogh a gasket MAY be available aftermarket.

By the way, WHICH car are you driving..GS400/430, or the 300? That makes a difference you know. The info above relates to the 400/430.
Good luck!

TLW

Gs300.........

Dukespeed

iTrader: (1)

Sorry its a GS300
I took it to my mechanic as soon as I noticed it. They had a little trouble finding where the leak was actually coming from. They used thier telescope mirrors and from what they could see they thought it was coming from the oil pan. I was told that the oil pan was a two stage deal that required the removal of the engine to get to both sections? They also said that there are no parts needed it is only am adhesive and thats it that has to be scraped off and then resealed.

salimshah

If two pieces {I am not familiar with GS3} then the only reason to open the two would be if both leak. So theoretically only one pan needs to be removed.

I have worked on the trans-pan and you would need something called "fipg" if my memory serves me right. So you take the pan off and clean both surfaces thoroughly. They reccomend non-alcohol based cleaner. lay a continues bead and in put it back in less than 15 minutes. Key to a good job is the proper troque on the pan bolts. too little => leaks ... too much=> Leaks + distorted pan surface.

Apart from that it might be worth investigating why the leak happened. Break in th fipg is one explanation. Worse it that the pan hit something on the road and is warped/cracked. No sense putting it toghther to find out that the leak still exists. Don't agree on to "put a hole lot of fipg to cover a warp/fine_crack" as it will be band-aid only.

Salim

Dukespeed

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info. The upper pan?? is where they think the leak is. This whole thing is sounding worse by the second. If the pan is warped? would we be able to tell just by looking? Hopefully we can and I will get a new one if needed. This sux, I should just get the supra twin turbo motor and throw it in it will only cost like 8k. Thats incentive to fix it. Anyways thanks agian.

Matt

Dukespeed

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know a good shop in Houston to take the GS3 to that knows alot about the car/engine?

Thanks

MP

HoracioGS4

not in houston, but if you are ever in dallas you can take it jp importz....he is well known and respected in club-lexus.

salimshah

If it is the pan only, it does not require an expert necessarily. Special skill required for this task is 'zip'.

You need some one who is going to do the job carefuly, knows the torque setting and has the torque wrench for that range.

The biggest problem I forsee is the prepardness for both outcomes .. pan ok and pan not ok.

trick: Lay butcher paper on top of a glass/mirror [flattest surface available], Lay a flash light .. turn it on, and cover with the pan. Position the light so that it tries to shine out of the suspect area. See if you can see the light.

Alternative: Put a stright edge on all four flats.

Salim