engine vibrations/low idle solved
11-26-05, 03:29 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Adam2562
when u say pita lol does that mean easy or hard...?? hehe sry for the dumb question
to remove the drivers side top nut you need to remove oil filter , then use a med sized 17mm wrench , then you need a pry bar to pry against the wrench to get the nut to crack , once cracked you can use a ratching box wrench to remove also you need to have eng lifted at that time as well , it doable but you need a good sold pry bar and you have to fined the right angle and stay clear of the ac line for one false move and you will have no ac
11-27-05, 02:47 PM
#18
LEXFORLIFE,
Did you have to lower the subframe, or did you do it without it? I intend to lower the subframe on the front end of it like ai did on my old Thunderbird Supercoupe. I will take suggestions for an easier method!
I am changing all of the mounts on the engine (2), and the transmission mount in the rear.
Thanks
Did you have to lower the subframe, or did you do it without it? I intend to lower the subframe on the front end of it like ai did on my old Thunderbird Supercoupe. I will take suggestions for an easier method!
I am changing all of the mounts on the engine (2), and the transmission mount in the rear.
Thanks
11-27-05, 05:12 PM
#20
Originally Posted by gserep1
LEXFORLIFE,
Did you have to lower the subframe, or did you do it without it? I intend to lower the subframe on the front end of it like ai did on my old Thunderbird Supercoupe. I will take suggestions for an easier method!
I am changing all of the mounts on the engine (2), and the transmission mount in the rear.
Thanks
Did you have to lower the subframe, or did you do it without it? I intend to lower the subframe on the front end of it like ai did on my old Thunderbird Supercoupe. I will take suggestions for an easier method!
I am changing all of the mounts on the engine (2), and the transmission mount in the rear.
Thanks
no , don not lower subframe for thats very involved... just jack up from oil pan with 2x4 , use a 17 mm wrench and a good pry bar to crack the top nut once cracked use a ratching wrench to finish removing top nut and thats it
11-28-05, 05:57 PM
#23
OK,
I will give that a try. I have a full lift, and the car will be fully suspended. I have access to a hydraulic transmission jack and 2X4 wood. I looked at that upper nut and decided that this will not be easy to loosen. I will give the 17mm combination wrench a try, along with removing the front tires to gain better access.
WISH ME LUCK!
I will give that a try. I have a full lift, and the car will be fully suspended. I have access to a hydraulic transmission jack and 2X4 wood. I looked at that upper nut and decided that this will not be easy to loosen. I will give the 17mm combination wrench a try, along with removing the front tires to gain better access.
WISH ME LUCK!
12-02-05, 10:18 AM
#27
Changed My Drivers' Side Mount Last Night
I changed my drivers' side motor mount last night and the difference in the smoothness cannot be adequately described. After thinking about it, I realize that it makes sense that if the mount is broken, the engine is not properly suspended at anytime, and under power the engine moves around a LOT.
Having broken so many of my dad's motor mounts in his cars due to power braking in my early years, I was sure I had a broken mount a year ago, but recently I was finally able to prove it. I was fooled for quite a while because the area that looks like rubber from a distance is actually steel, and the rubber is in the very top. Only by artificially lifting the engine with a jack and putting a finger in the recess just below the heat shield can you find where the mount is actually broken.
My passenger mount is also broken in the same place, and I tried getting that one out too, but it is actually tougher to do. The driver's side was actually easy once I got started. I used the 17 mm combination wrench and interconnected a second wrench for leverage and applied a lot of torque..(actually ALL the strength I had, and it FINALLY moved a bit. After that, it was inching it along until the nut came off.
Once I had the mount out, I inspected it. The rubber separated into 2 pieces with just a quick pull, and the oil was still in the bottom undisturbed. Nearly all oil filled mounts will show evidence of leakage when broken. This one did not. because of the design.
Now I need to install the new mount for the passenger side as well. I am facing the power steering lines and alternator on the passenger side, and I was not able to get it done last night. I was frustrated after doing the drivers' side, so I decided to wait before I damaged something, or hurt myself.
It is a whole new car now. I also changed spark plugs to TORQUEMASTERS, and I can't say that I see any appreciable performance difference just yet, and I mainly attribute the smoothness to the new mount. Maybe I will reset the computer, but it is so smooth right now.
If anyone has any suggestions on how to change the passenger side mount on a 99 GS4, I am all ears.
I took picturres of my broken mount, but the pictures are too big to post. I will learn how to do it one day.
Having broken so many of my dad's motor mounts in his cars due to power braking in my early years, I was sure I had a broken mount a year ago, but recently I was finally able to prove it. I was fooled for quite a while because the area that looks like rubber from a distance is actually steel, and the rubber is in the very top. Only by artificially lifting the engine with a jack and putting a finger in the recess just below the heat shield can you find where the mount is actually broken.
My passenger mount is also broken in the same place, and I tried getting that one out too, but it is actually tougher to do. The driver's side was actually easy once I got started. I used the 17 mm combination wrench and interconnected a second wrench for leverage and applied a lot of torque..(actually ALL the strength I had, and it FINALLY moved a bit. After that, it was inching it along until the nut came off.
Once I had the mount out, I inspected it. The rubber separated into 2 pieces with just a quick pull, and the oil was still in the bottom undisturbed. Nearly all oil filled mounts will show evidence of leakage when broken. This one did not. because of the design.
Now I need to install the new mount for the passenger side as well. I am facing the power steering lines and alternator on the passenger side, and I was not able to get it done last night. I was frustrated after doing the drivers' side, so I decided to wait before I damaged something, or hurt myself.
It is a whole new car now. I also changed spark plugs to TORQUEMASTERS, and I can't say that I see any appreciable performance difference just yet, and I mainly attribute the smoothness to the new mount. Maybe I will reset the computer, but it is so smooth right now.
If anyone has any suggestions on how to change the passenger side mount on a 99 GS4, I am all ears.
I took picturres of my broken mount, but the pictures are too big to post. I will learn how to do it one day.
Last edited by gserep1; 12-02-05 at 10:33 AM.
12-19-05, 05:18 PM
#28
Lexus Test Driver
god.
back in the early days when we were all talking TPS, throttle bodies, i mentioned in those threads that maybe the motor mounts might be the culprits. finally, someone proved my point!
back in the early days when we were all talking TPS, throttle bodies, i mentioned in those threads that maybe the motor mounts might be the culprits. finally, someone proved my point!
02-29-08, 07:37 PM
#29
Advanced
I think this is the problem I am having. I still have not checked the rocking of the engine, but one thing I notice is a noise when I accelerate hard.
how many mounts need to be replaced.
does anyone have part numbers.
are there transmission mounts?
how many mounts need to be replaced.
does anyone have part numbers.
are there transmission mounts?
