engine vibrations/low idle solved
#1
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okay guys
together with a good friend of mine who is a master tech and shop foreman at my local lexus dealer we took care of the engine vibration trouble.. he told me that countless people have come in complaining about low idle where really the idle was acceptable but because it sits in the 500-575 range (depending on how clean tb is and maf etc etc) you tend to feel shuddering and vibrations. well i finally listened to him.. he said many techs have spent hours exchanging tb , changing tps , mafs etc etc to no avail.. once they swapped out motor mounts problem solved.. of course they cleaned throttle body , and maf and it idles still cleanly in the 575-600 range but smooth as silk
well i yanked out my motor mounts today at home as usual ( you guys know me mr diy) and man it was a real pita but boy of boy was it worth it.. dealer wants around 2hrs labor per side , no way for me
well herea 2 pics of what my drivers side mounts looked like and i just turned 70k miles
do you guys see the part thats split , well thats supposed to be one piece solid and its filled with a special oil like liquid for vibration absorbtion.. the mount also was about 1/2 crushed ..
since putting them in the car feels smooth like new , the occaisonal thump i used to hear in the front end when driving over the reflector pieces in the road or ripples are now smooth and quiet and i though i need to change my upper strut tower mounts
well again its a great fix and it again brings back the
on my face
together with a good friend of mine who is a master tech and shop foreman at my local lexus dealer we took care of the engine vibration trouble.. he told me that countless people have come in complaining about low idle where really the idle was acceptable but because it sits in the 500-575 range (depending on how clean tb is and maf etc etc) you tend to feel shuddering and vibrations. well i finally listened to him.. he said many techs have spent hours exchanging tb , changing tps , mafs etc etc to no avail.. once they swapped out motor mounts problem solved.. of course they cleaned throttle body , and maf and it idles still cleanly in the 575-600 range but smooth as silk
well i yanked out my motor mounts today at home as usual ( you guys know me mr diy) and man it was a real pita but boy of boy was it worth it.. dealer wants around 2hrs labor per side , no way for me
well herea 2 pics of what my drivers side mounts looked like and i just turned 70k miles
do you guys see the part thats split , well thats supposed to be one piece solid and its filled with a special oil like liquid for vibration absorbtion.. the mount also was about 1/2 crushed ..
since putting them in the car feels smooth like new , the occaisonal thump i used to hear in the front end when driving over the reflector pieces in the road or ripples are now smooth and quiet and i though i need to change my upper strut tower mounts
well again its a great fix and it again brings back the
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#3
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Originally Posted by chuckb
congrats ed. how much did you have to raise the motor and what jack point did you raise the motor from?
motor raised about 4inches maybe 5 and using a 2 1/2 ft section of 2x4 right under the oil pan to spread the load but getting the top nut on the top of the mount to crack involved loads of creative thought
#7
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your welcome guys
do this to test your mounts... i blocked all 4 wheels with 2x4 , then put on the emgergency brakes , put car in drive , walk to pass side of car , then actuate the throttle with small bursts, look how the eng rocks from left to right.. most will be amazed at how much movement you have .. the drivers side mount takes most of the trq of the eng under accel..
if you have FI, or a trq convertor this puts your mounts at most stress as compared to the rest.. these mounts were designed for comfort and were never really des for perf so if you power brake often you will be sure to destroy uyour mounts quickly.. our eng generate alot of trq so keep a eye on it
again foolks my car idles right around 575-600 with lights on and about 625-650 with ac on with everything off it drops to around 525 give or take and i dont feel the drop anymore. it idles smooth, but look at it this way , its better for the tranny and fuel consup to idle lower then higher, it puts less drag on tranny whereby extends life of it
do this to test your mounts... i blocked all 4 wheels with 2x4 , then put on the emgergency brakes , put car in drive , walk to pass side of car , then actuate the throttle with small bursts, look how the eng rocks from left to right.. most will be amazed at how much movement you have .. the drivers side mount takes most of the trq of the eng under accel..
if you have FI, or a trq convertor this puts your mounts at most stress as compared to the rest.. these mounts were designed for comfort and were never really des for perf so if you power brake often you will be sure to destroy uyour mounts quickly.. our eng generate alot of trq so keep a eye on it
again foolks my car idles right around 575-600 with lights on and about 625-650 with ac on with everything off it drops to around 525 give or take and i dont feel the drop anymore. it idles smooth, but look at it this way , its better for the tranny and fuel consup to idle lower then higher, it puts less drag on tranny whereby extends life of it
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#14
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Originally Posted by Scott1258
How many are there to replace?
just 2 but getting the top nut is a pita, trust me
you guys with vibration problems really need to do this.. i dont power brake , i do drive very hard though , i would say anyone with 60k miles or more should do this
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