20's and lowering
07-30-01, 05:17 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi everyone, I'll be picking up my '98 GS400 in the next couple of weeks.
The first modification I'll be making is the wheels and suspension. Does anyone know if I can safely ride on a set of 20's (20x8 w/ 245/35R20), drop it a couple inches, and not rub? I'm not sure of the offset of the wheels, but first, I'd like to know if it's even possible.
On the topic of lowering, can anyone recommend a brand of really nice performing springs for the GS400? And has anyone experienced any damage from bottoming-out? I understand that the GReddy exhaust hangs rather low.
Pass on some experiences!
Let me know
/Cheers/Daryl
The first modification I'll be making is the wheels and suspension. Does anyone know if I can safely ride on a set of 20's (20x8 w/ 245/35R20), drop it a couple inches, and not rub? I'm not sure of the offset of the wheels, but first, I'd like to know if it's even possible.
On the topic of lowering, can anyone recommend a brand of really nice performing springs for the GS400? And has anyone experienced any damage from bottoming-out? I understand that the GReddy exhaust hangs rather low.
Pass on some experiences!
Let me know
/Cheers/Daryl
07-30-01, 09:23 PM
#3
Lexus Fanatic
Daryl,
welcome
both H&R and eibach springs are good for the GS. Hr drops a bit lower for more aggressive look, cost a bit more too.
whenever you lower the car, it is highly recommended that you get new shocks. Bilsteins sports model complement either of the springs very well.
i can have a set of the bilsteins shipped to your door for $425 US$. wait, you are in vancouver, the shipping may be different.
well, let me know using PM box below if you are interested. good luck on the new GS.
will
welcome
both H&R and eibach springs are good for the GS. Hr drops a bit lower for more aggressive look, cost a bit more too.
whenever you lower the car, it is highly recommended that you get new shocks. Bilsteins sports model complement either of the springs very well.
i can have a set of the bilsteins shipped to your door for $425 US$. wait, you are in vancouver, the shipping may be different.
well, let me know using PM box below if you are interested. good luck on the new GS.
will
07-30-01, 09:55 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks for the info Diesel/Will,
Unless anyone can recommend something better, or strongly opposes, I'll actually probably end up going with the H&R coil over setup, and tweak the ride height from there to get as low as I can with no rub. I've found a really good shop up here that can get the parts, does great work, and I trust them.
Speaking of that, I'm curious to know how much work it is to adjust the ride height with that setup? (ie: can I tweak it with the units installed, or do I have to remove the coil over units to adjust the settings?)
Anyways, I'll send pics up when it's done, and let you know how it works out. Shooting for Mid-Sept.
/Cheers/Daryl
Unless anyone can recommend something better, or strongly opposes, I'll actually probably end up going with the H&R coil over setup, and tweak the ride height from there to get as low as I can with no rub. I've found a really good shop up here that can get the parts, does great work, and I trust them.
Speaking of that, I'm curious to know how much work it is to adjust the ride height with that setup? (ie: can I tweak it with the units installed, or do I have to remove the coil over units to adjust the settings?)
Anyways, I'll send pics up when it's done, and let you know how it works out. Shooting for Mid-Sept.
/Cheers/Daryl
07-30-01, 10:20 PM
#5
Lexus Fanatic
Daryl,
HR coils are good choice. one of our parts/everything guru, MANARAY has the HRs. i remember him saying that you do need to remove the wheel, and that is all. the unit actually stays on.
i can also get the HR coils too. PM me if you want some price for comparison. otherwise if you can find a good, trustworthy shop, go for it.
william
HR coils are good choice. one of our parts/everything guru, MANARAY has the HRs. i remember him saying that you do need to remove the wheel, and that is all. the unit actually stays on.
i can also get the HR coils too. PM me if you want some price for comparison. otherwise if you can find a good, trustworthy shop, go for it.
william
07-31-01, 02:44 AM
#6
Lexus Fanatic
Dr. Polygon - You can definitely do 20" x 8" with a SERIOUS drop (I'm talking tucked)...but I would recommend 20" x 8.5" and 245/35-20's all around (if you want to go that route.)
Personally, I would stagger 20" x 8.5" on 245/35-20 up front and 20" x 9.5" on 275/30-20 on back. That's what I have on mine and the only time I rub is when the wheel is turned and I hit a pretty hard bump or dip...when I'm going straight, I've had 4 decent size (200lbs and up per person) guys in the car and hit dips on the freeway w/o any rubbing. It's all about OFFSET!
I have front dumped about 1 finger (1/2") gap or so from the top of the tire to the bottom of the fender well (probably a 1.75" to 2" drop...maybe more) and on the back, I have almost a two finger (approx. 1") gap...(finger gap measurement...real scientific, eh?)
I am actually going to sell my H&R's because I'm sick of waiting for H&R to release their new rear spring for the coil overs which allows you to tuck the rear wheel in the fender (the fronts will tuck no problem...I still have like 2" more to go in the front). Right now, I have the rear coil overs set to the absolute bottom and I still have a two finger gap...plus H&R and I had a major difference on some issues relating to Japanese Luxury Cars so I told them to ***** off...
But like all H&R products, they are well built...I just no longer support them on Japanese Luxury Cars...(now if I was sadomasochist and bought a BMW or Audi, I would do H&R coilovers)
For adjustment, you have to jack the car up (use jackstands in addition to a jack...or use a car lift) and take off the wheel and then loosen the lock collar and the turn the adjustment ring to where you want and then retighten the lock collar, put the wheel back on and then do the other three...it's not hard, just a little time consuming...wouldn't want to do it on a daily basis.
As for the heavy wheel issue, if you buy some QUALITY rims (forged), the weight issue won't kill you. I have 20" forged 3-piece wheels and I've done a couple 0-60 times using a G-Tech Pro and with the ECT Power OFF (meaning lower performance), I still peeled off 6.25sec 0-60's with a full tank of gas an about 50 lbs. of random items in my trunk...I haven't had time (or been in a optimal location where the road is smooth and flat and devoid of cops) to do more testing...but I'm sure with a near empty tank, some 92/104 octane fuel mix, ECT ON, and all the crap out of my trunk, I'm sure I could peel off a sub 6 second 0-60...(and this is with NO engine mods...)
I'll be posting some more times soon as I'm going to be heading up to a POC (Porsche Owners Club) track event with a few buddies to dice it up with their 996's on the track...(trust me, I have no fantasies about beating them...I know I'll get my *** handed to me on a platter)...I'm going to do a full 0-60, 60-0, 1/4 mile, and lateral G testing in my GS430...I might also be testing the GS's "crashworthiness" too :eek: (good thing I have friends who own body shops!
)
Personally, I would stagger 20" x 8.5" on 245/35-20 up front and 20" x 9.5" on 275/30-20 on back. That's what I have on mine and the only time I rub is when the wheel is turned and I hit a pretty hard bump or dip...when I'm going straight, I've had 4 decent size (200lbs and up per person) guys in the car and hit dips on the freeway w/o any rubbing. It's all about OFFSET!
I have front dumped about 1 finger (1/2") gap or so from the top of the tire to the bottom of the fender well (probably a 1.75" to 2" drop...maybe more) and on the back, I have almost a two finger (approx. 1") gap...(finger gap measurement...real scientific, eh?)
I am actually going to sell my H&R's because I'm sick of waiting for H&R to release their new rear spring for the coil overs which allows you to tuck the rear wheel in the fender (the fronts will tuck no problem...I still have like 2" more to go in the front). Right now, I have the rear coil overs set to the absolute bottom and I still have a two finger gap...plus H&R and I had a major difference on some issues relating to Japanese Luxury Cars so I told them to ***** off...
But like all H&R products, they are well built...I just no longer support them on Japanese Luxury Cars...(now if I was sadomasochist and bought a BMW or Audi, I would do H&R coilovers)For adjustment, you have to jack the car up (use jackstands in addition to a jack...or use a car lift) and take off the wheel and then loosen the lock collar and the turn the adjustment ring to where you want and then retighten the lock collar, put the wheel back on and then do the other three...it's not hard, just a little time consuming...wouldn't want to do it on a daily basis.
As for the heavy wheel issue, if you buy some QUALITY rims (forged), the weight issue won't kill you. I have 20" forged 3-piece wheels and I've done a couple 0-60 times using a G-Tech Pro and with the ECT Power OFF (meaning lower performance), I still peeled off 6.25sec 0-60's with a full tank of gas an about 50 lbs. of random items in my trunk...I haven't had time (or been in a optimal location where the road is smooth and flat and devoid of cops) to do more testing...but I'm sure with a near empty tank, some 92/104 octane fuel mix, ECT ON, and all the crap out of my trunk, I'm sure I could peel off a sub 6 second 0-60...(and this is with NO engine mods...)
I'll be posting some more times soon as I'm going to be heading up to a POC (Porsche Owners Club) track event with a few buddies to dice it up with their 996's on the track...(trust me, I have no fantasies about beating them...I know I'll get my *** handed to me on a platter)...I'm going to do a full 0-60, 60-0, 1/4 mile, and lateral G testing in my GS430...I might also be testing the GS's "crashworthiness" too :eek: (good thing I have friends who own body shops!
)
Last edited by Manaray; 07-31-01 at 04:29 AM.
07-31-01, 10:22 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Sweet! Thanks Manaray... Now I know it's going to do what I want.
BTW: What are the offsets on your wheels, and what kind of camber/toe do you have? ie) Are you tucking because it's cambered?
Anyways, since you're trying to get rid of the coilovers, what are you going to use to replace them? You basically convinced me that the coilovers might not go as low as I want. I'd like to tuck a bit of tire on front and back if possible. This weekend, I was at a show up here, and there was a white CLK convertible with 19" lowenharts, and it was tucking rim in the back... It looked SO sweet, but I still haven't seen a GS do that yet.
On a side note, Damn, I wish someone would make a 215-35 R20. I'd put them on all 4 corners.
/Cheers/Daryl
BTW: What are the offsets on your wheels, and what kind of camber/toe do you have? ie) Are you tucking because it's cambered?
Anyways, since you're trying to get rid of the coilovers, what are you going to use to replace them? You basically convinced me that the coilovers might not go as low as I want. I'd like to tuck a bit of tire on front and back if possible. This weekend, I was at a show up here, and there was a white CLK convertible with 19" lowenharts, and it was tucking rim in the back... It looked SO sweet, but I still haven't seen a GS do that yet.
On a side note, Damn, I wish someone would make a 215-35 R20. I'd put them on all 4 corners.
/Cheers/Daryl
Trending Topics
08-01-01, 04:53 AM
#9
Lexus Fanatic
Dr. Polygon: 215/35-20? That would be FAR too narrow. The GS can easily handle 245/35-20 on all four corners w/o rubbing with the right offset. As for the coilovers, I would recommend the Tein CS (or HA if you prefer a harder more track oriented ride) coilovers as they will go very low (to the point of being undrivable!)
Dr. Polygon & Tmasta - I have a +38 up front and a +37 out back. I'm running a 8.5" wide wheel up front and a 9.5" wide out back. I'm not sure what my camber and toe is yet...I haven't needed to get an alignment done yet...
Also, when selecting a rim, consider whether or not you're going to do a future brake upgrade...some CL members have bought rims (knock-offs in every case I believe) that couldn't support even the Supra brake upgrade. Check with the manufacture (if possible) or install shop to see if big brakes will work your wheel/offset setup if you plan on going that route...
Also be careful with what offset a wheel shop sells you...since "off the shelf" wheels come in a limited set of offsets, they might just try to sell you what they have in stock that may work on your car, but it may not be optimal (like the wheels sit in too much or whatever).
If you're curious about a certain setup, just post and I'm sure someone can give you an answer...
Dr. Polygon & Tmasta - I have a +38 up front and a +37 out back. I'm running a 8.5" wide wheel up front and a 9.5" wide out back. I'm not sure what my camber and toe is yet...I haven't needed to get an alignment done yet...
Also, when selecting a rim, consider whether or not you're going to do a future brake upgrade...some CL members have bought rims (knock-offs in every case I believe) that couldn't support even the Supra brake upgrade. Check with the manufacture (if possible) or install shop to see if big brakes will work your wheel/offset setup if you plan on going that route...
Also be careful with what offset a wheel shop sells you...since "off the shelf" wheels come in a limited set of offsets, they might just try to sell you what they have in stock that may work on your car, but it may not be optimal (like the wheels sit in too much or whatever).
If you're curious about a certain setup, just post and I'm sure someone can give you an answer...
08-01-01, 08:13 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Yeah yeah, I know. 215 is way too narrow. Sometimes I need a reality check!! 
Anyways, you probably already know what I'm after: a really LOW profile sidewall. You've also convinced me to go up to 8.5 or 9 instead of 8 width... Although, I'd ideally prefer not to stagger, because I would like to be able to rotate the tires. Can anyone comment on the benefits of staggering vs. the ability to rotate your tires?
Also, manaray, can you comment on 245/35 vs. 275/30 ??
Finally, I'm happy to hear that you recommend the Tein coilovers. A lot of people I've talked to also recommend them, and I can get a fantastic deal up here in Vancouver, so that's my current route.
/Cheers/Daryl
Anyways, you probably already know what I'm after: a really LOW profile sidewall. You've also convinced me to go up to 8.5 or 9 instead of 8 width... Although, I'd ideally prefer not to stagger, because I would like to be able to rotate the tires. Can anyone comment on the benefits of staggering vs. the ability to rotate your tires?
Also, manaray, can you comment on 245/35 vs. 275/30 ??
Finally, I'm happy to hear that you recommend the Tein coilovers. A lot of people I've talked to also recommend them, and I can get a fantastic deal up here in Vancouver, so that's my current route.
/Cheers/Daryl
08-01-01, 02:57 PM
#11
Lexus Fanatic
Well with staggering, it allows you to get a fatter piece of rubber out back. A bigger contact patch so get the power to the ground better...a 275/30 is only doable in the rear...the 245/35 and 275/30 is what I recommend if you're going to do a staggered setup. You can do do a more extreme setup like 255 and 295 even but you might have to do some fender rolling and you'll really have to watch the offset (for those two sizes, go with a 9" wide wheel up front and a 10" wide wheel on the back...maybe even 10.5)
Another thing you have to look out for, if you're concerned about rotating your tires, is that you don't get a DIRECTIONAL tire...because then, you can only go front to rear on your "rotation"
As for the Tein's, they make great products...let me know how much you can get the Tein CS's for in Vancouver (what's the current CAN$ to US$ exchange?)...you can PM (Private Message) me by hitting the purple "PM" button at the bottom of my post...
Another thing you have to look out for, if you're concerned about rotating your tires, is that you don't get a DIRECTIONAL tire...because then, you can only go front to rear on your "rotation"
As for the Tein's, they make great products...let me know how much you can get the Tein CS's for in Vancouver (what's the current CAN$ to US$ exchange?)...you can PM (Private Message) me by hitting the purple "PM" button at the bottom of my post...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
