I got Sludge for Christmas
#16
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Get the transmission fluid out of the engine! That idea is an old myth that refuses to die. Just use a quality oil and filter and change it frequently. If that doesn't do it, buy a new or good used engine. Stay away from additives or the "power flush" deals.
#17
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Originally Posted by oohpapi44
Well the tranny fluid is coming out today afterwork so I'll give you an update if I can see any difference at all after two days. But the whole crap it, buy a new or used engine thought is exactly what I'm trying to avoid doing if I can, at least for now.
#18
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Originally Posted by oohpapi44
Well the tranny fluid is coming out today afterwork so I'll give you an update if I can see any difference at all after two days. But the whole crap it, buy a new or used engine thought is exactly what I'm trying to avoid doing if I can, at least for now.
Luckily the engine doesn't know or care what it looks like inside. The only thing it does is produce symptoms, and those would be uenven compression, loss of power, and oil consumption and blowby. If those are not present to any great degree, then a schedule of shortened interval oil changes may very well fix some of the damage, if any damage actually exists. Keep changing the oil, using a good brand and a good filter, and you will know soon enough.
I mentioned the engine replacement idea only as the last resort. I would think that after several oil changes and the engine will fine. Over the last thirty-five years I have "cured" many engines exaclty this way.
Good luck. These are tough and strong engines, and I would be optimistic.
#19
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How bad is it Cliff? Wish you can take a pic of the neck( where the oil goes), and what comes out so we can get an idea.
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#20
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Good luck. These are tough and strong engines, and I would be optimistic.
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#21
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sorry to repeat myself but what are the symptoms of sludge in your engine?? How can you tell?
In my 95 gs, you can't see anything thru the """NECK""" because there is somethin in the way
In my 95 gs, you can't see anything thru the """NECK""" because there is somethin in the way
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#22
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Originally Posted by oohpapi44
Thanks, that's why I put it out on here, I was hoping this wasn't the automatic death sentence the dealer was making it out to be. He wanted $4000 on the spot to 'fix it' but was doing me a 'favor' and asked his boss to only charge me $1600..... What a great guy ![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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#23
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sorry to repeat myself but what are the symptoms of sludge in your engine?? How can you tell?
#24
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Originally Posted by Xeeeeeem
What are the symptoms of sludge in the engine !?
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I would try several consecutive oil changes (5 changes at 1000 miles each) using a synthetic oil that is rated for diesel service. Diesel oil has lots of detergent in it and will be many times safer for your engine than ATF. Mobil Delvac 1 has approximately 4 times the detergent as regular Mobil 1. This is because diesel engines are really sooty. It will be hard to find Delvac 1 Synthetic. Your best bet may be at a Flying J truck stop. Also, if I'm not mistaken Mobil has bottled Delvac 1 for purchase at Wal-Mart. It's called Mobil 1 Truck and SUV or the stuff that says 15,000 miles on it (BTW, I would never leave ANY oil in my Lex for 10K let alone 15K). I think Amsoil makes a similar severe service oil similar to Delvac 1, just make sure that it's diesel oil like delvac or rotella T. Other than that, I wouldn't use any other method to clean out my motor, except for a complete teardown. My grandfather had clogged arteries, the surgeon f'd with them, then he had a stroke when some of the sludge got lodged in his head. Bad stuff can happen to your motor, but I promise you that it won't seize if you keep changing the oil with high quality diesel for awhile.
#27
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I've done the following to clean up the engine of any used car I bought:
1. Drain current oil. Replace filter with something cheap but effective.
2. Refill oil with some cheap Valvoline (non-synth). Fill it 1-2 quarts short of a normal change.
3. Add a bottle of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to the oil.
4. Start the engine, raise the RPM to 2000 and place a brick or something on the pedal to keep it there.
5. Let the engine run for 5-10 mins. Turn it off. (I've run it up to 20 mins)
6. Drain the oil, replace with new quality synth oil and replace the filter.
I've done this on several cars with excellent results. Each time, the throttle was noticably more responsive. The first time I did this was on a Nissan 240sx that had 210k miles on it. At around 230k miles I replaced the engine and sold the old engine to a friend. He torn it down and was amazed at how clean the inside of the engine was. It looked like a 50k mile engine inside... not 230k.
1. Drain current oil. Replace filter with something cheap but effective.
2. Refill oil with some cheap Valvoline (non-synth). Fill it 1-2 quarts short of a normal change.
3. Add a bottle of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to the oil.
4. Start the engine, raise the RPM to 2000 and place a brick or something on the pedal to keep it there.
5. Let the engine run for 5-10 mins. Turn it off. (I've run it up to 20 mins)
6. Drain the oil, replace with new quality synth oil and replace the filter.
I've done this on several cars with excellent results. Each time, the throttle was noticably more responsive. The first time I did this was on a Nissan 240sx that had 210k miles on it. At around 230k miles I replaced the engine and sold the old engine to a friend. He torn it down and was amazed at how clean the inside of the engine was. It looked like a 50k mile engine inside... not 230k.
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Originally Posted by ChrisK
I would recommend using Auto-rx. Fallow the instructions "For Engines with Heavy Sludge"
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