** Oh double snap, Carson Toyota/Lexus Parts JP Style Tail lights are in **
04-03-06, 10:42 AM
#76
EV ftw!!!
Originally Posted by RMMGS4
I think your guess is pretty close. The bulbs aren't the problem. They could put a cluster of 10 bulbs in that location, but the fast blink would require another part that would get very hot and would not be just plug and play anymore.
You can put one of those socketed bulb clusters that have like 9 bulbs in them. I might try that.
You can put one of those socketed bulb clusters that have like 9 bulbs in them. I might try that.
04-03-06, 12:18 PM
#77
Originally Posted by Hameed
I am putting one of those 16 LED lights in my brake lights and turn signal indicator. I ordered them from autolumination.com .
Good
Let us know how that turns out. For the turn signal indicator, I am curious to see how bright it is.
04-03-06, 12:24 PM
#78
Original CL Sponsor since 1999
Thread Starter
Just installed a set on an 01 GS430, inners match well IMO
We still have the light out issue on the dash, I need to see if we can straighten this out before we launch a GB
We still have the light out issue on the dash, I need to see if we can straighten this out before we launch a GB
04-03-06, 12:29 PM
#79
Forum Administrator
iTrader: (2)
Steve, did you try the turn signals to see if you get a 'fast blink' or a regular one?
04-03-06, 12:43 PM
#80
Originally Posted by SUPRATRD
Just installed a set on an 01 GS430, inners match well IMO
We still have the light out issue on the dash, I need to see if we can straighten this out before we launch a GB
We still have the light out issue on the dash, I need to see if we can straighten this out before we launch a GB
Steve,
of the top of my head,we can simulate the current draw of a standard incandescant bulb, however since we are dealing with LEDs several other factors come into play.
1. If the LEDs are wired in parallel, you will have to have all the LEDs die before the light sensor gets triggered. Most likely you will have someone tell you about some of the LEDs going out before they all go out.
2. If the LEDs are wired in series, then when one bulb goes out, then they all go out. This is the Cheap Xmas tree light syndrome. Not sure if I can figure out how they are wired since I can't get at the circuit board.
3. We can surely just wire up a resistive load to trick the light out indicator. Problem is, if the lights ever do go out, the simulator will still tell the sensor that the lights are good.
4. I will think about this more, but if a simulated resistance fakes out the indicator bulb, you might as well just take the warning bulb out of the dash console.
My thoughts are with 3 brake lights, left center & right, they are unlikely to all go out at once. To me this is a minimal safety concern to disable the light out indicator. It is in actuality a luxury item at best, since most cars don't have this feature.
04-03-06, 12:44 PM
#81
Originally Posted by DaveGS4
Steve, did you try the turn signals to see if you get a 'fast blink' or a regular one?
Shouldn't be fast blink Dave. The turn signal bulbs are not LEDs.
Steve should know by now. I will find out myself tonight.
04-03-06, 12:59 PM
#82
Original CL Sponsor since 1999
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by DaveGS4
Steve, did you try the turn signals to see if you get a 'fast blink' or a regular one?
04-03-06, 01:01 PM
#83
Original CL Sponsor since 1999
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by RMMGS4
Steve,
of the top of my head,we can simulate the current draw of a standard incandescant bulb, however since we are dealing with LEDs several other factors come into play.
1. If the LEDs are wired in parallel, you will have to have all the LEDs die before the light sensor gets triggered. Most likely you will have someone tell you about some of the LEDs going out before they all go out.
2. If the LEDs are wired in series, then when one bulb goes out, then they all go out. This is the Cheap Xmas tree light syndrome. Not sure if I can figure out how they are wired since I can't get at the circuit board.
3. We can surely just wire up a resistive load to trick the light out indicator. Problem is, if the lights ever do go out, the simulator will still tell the sensor that the lights are good.
4. I will think about this more, but if a simulated resistance fakes out the indicator bulb, you might as well just take the warning bulb out of the dash console.
My thoughts are with 3 brake lights, left center & right, they are unlikely to all go out at once. To me this is a minimal safety concern to disable the light out indicator. It is in actuality a luxury item at best, since most cars don't have this feature.
of the top of my head,we can simulate the current draw of a standard incandescant bulb, however since we are dealing with LEDs several other factors come into play.
1. If the LEDs are wired in parallel, you will have to have all the LEDs die before the light sensor gets triggered. Most likely you will have someone tell you about some of the LEDs going out before they all go out.
2. If the LEDs are wired in series, then when one bulb goes out, then they all go out. This is the Cheap Xmas tree light syndrome. Not sure if I can figure out how they are wired since I can't get at the circuit board.
3. We can surely just wire up a resistive load to trick the light out indicator. Problem is, if the lights ever do go out, the simulator will still tell the sensor that the lights are good.
4. I will think about this more, but if a simulated resistance fakes out the indicator bulb, you might as well just take the warning bulb out of the dash console.
My thoughts are with 3 brake lights, left center & right, they are unlikely to all go out at once. To me this is a minimal safety concern to disable the light out indicator. It is in actuality a luxury item at best, since most cars don't have this feature.
Now, is this going to bother someone so much they wont get the lights, may be I should start a poll?
04-03-06, 01:06 PM
#84
EV ftw!!!
Originally Posted by SUPRATRD
Now, is this going to bother someone so much they wont get the lights, may be I should start a poll?
04-03-06, 01:10 PM
#86
Original CL Sponsor since 1999
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Hameed
I know for sure it would not bother me.
04-03-06, 01:11 PM
#87
Originally Posted by SUPRATRD
Sounds like for now this is going to be the standard because of the different draw on the LEDS
Now, is this going to bother someone so much they wont get the lights, may be I should start a poll?
Now, is this going to bother someone so much they wont get the lights, may be I should start a poll?
You know my thoughts. I won't lose any sleep worrying if one out of three brake lights will go out while I am driving and not know it.
Odds are you will have a flat tire 10 times more likely than lose an LED.
04-03-06, 01:15 PM
#88
Forum Administrator
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by RMMGS4
Shouldn't be fast blink Dave. The turn signal bulbs are not LEDs.
Steve should know by now. I will find out myself tonight.
Steve should know by now. I will find out myself tonight.
Duh... should have seen that 
My rear bulb out light has been disabled for years when I removed the third brake light from the rear deck. If I were looking at these (and I would if I didn't already have JPs) I wouldn't have any issue with disabling the light.
04-03-06, 01:31 PM
#90
I've been running LED bulbs in tails and turns for a year+ now, no probs. Just disable the damn warning light, it's not worth much at all. You can yank the bulb or eliminate the output signal from the lamp failure module. LEDs will tend to last longer than bulbs in general. We check our cars so regularly anyway, we're not soccer moms. Maybe we could start a new subforum lest anyone think they might fall into this category. 
The heat you get from turn signal LEDs is nowhere near what you get from tails with resistive equalizer loads added to each. The tails turn on and never turn off for hours. The turn sigs have 50% duty cycle - that's half the heat to begin with, then during the off time they cool somewhat. Plus they're not on all that often, unless you find yourself constantly driving in circles. Before adding ANY resistors to tails you MUST be able to do the proper heat generation and dissipation calculations, or you could wind up with melting or fire.
I may be putting bulbs back in my turn signals because they are just not bright enough. Red LED output is higher than Amber. The bigger problem is that if you don't have a gazillion LEDs, or the ability to reflect light off of the back reflector, it's just not bright enough at all angles. This is why the Wise tails do not have amber LEDs for turn signals! It's not only hard to do, but there may even be liability issues.
The heat you get from turn signal LEDs is nowhere near what you get from tails with resistive equalizer loads added to each. The tails turn on and never turn off for hours. The turn sigs have 50% duty cycle - that's half the heat to begin with, then during the off time they cool somewhat. Plus they're not on all that often, unless you find yourself constantly driving in circles. Before adding ANY resistors to tails you MUST be able to do the proper heat generation and dissipation calculations, or you could wind up with melting or fire.
I may be putting bulbs back in my turn signals because they are just not bright enough. Red LED output is higher than Amber. The bigger problem is that if you don't have a gazillion LEDs, or the ability to reflect light off of the back reflector, it's just not bright enough at all angles. This is why the Wise tails do not have amber LEDs for turn signals! It's not only hard to do, but there may even be liability issues.