100k Miles Service?!
#1
100k Miles Service?!
I just hit the 100,000 mile mark the other day on my 99 GS3. I'm trying to decide whether or not I need to take it in for service. I purchased the car about a 2 weeks ago and took it to Tuffy for a used car check. they said that everything was in top notch shape.
When I spoke to the Lexus rep this morning they said that they would need to check and see if it needed 90,000 miles service. She also said that 100,000 mile service is pretty basic (oil change, break check, tire rotation, etc.). Either way one of these services costs over $1000 ( I think it was the 90,000). Soooooooo what do ya think?
When I spoke to the Lexus rep this morning they said that they would need to check and see if it needed 90,000 miles service. She also said that 100,000 mile service is pretty basic (oil change, break check, tire rotation, etc.). Either way one of these services costs over $1000 ( I think it was the 90,000). Soooooooo what do ya think?
#2
Originally Posted by handzilla
I just hit the 100,000 mile mark the other day on my 99 GS3. I'm trying to decide whether or not I need to take it in for service. I purchased the car about a 2 weeks ago and took it to Tuffy for a used car check. they said that everything was in top notch shape.
When I spoke to the Lexus rep this morning they said that they would need to check and see if it needed 90,000 miles service. She also said that 100,000 mile service is pretty basic (oil change, break check, tire rotation, etc.). Either way one of these services costs over $1000 ( I think it was the 90,000). Soooooooo what do ya think?
When I spoke to the Lexus rep this morning they said that they would need to check and see if it needed 90,000 miles service. She also said that 100,000 mile service is pretty basic (oil change, break check, tire rotation, etc.). Either way one of these services costs over $1000 ( I think it was the 90,000). Soooooooo what do ya think?
#3
just call your local dealership with your VIN and request a service record check. They should be able to tell you if the 90k was done at any dealership. If they it hasnt been done yet, its still possible the previous owner purchased the parts and took it to his own mechanic to be done at a cheaper price.
You may want to call and ask the previous owner either way. Also, if that isnt an option, I believe that there should be a sticker somewhere in the engine bay stating if the 90k service had been completed.
The 90k service is basically timing belt and water pump replacement. It'll run you in the $1200 range (thats what it cost on my LS). Dont forget that 90k is the max your car should hit before you change out the TB and WP, so I would do this ASAP. Our engine's are non-interference either way, but id recommend finding out the service record directly from Lexus.
Hope this helps ... just my $0.02
You may want to call and ask the previous owner either way. Also, if that isnt an option, I believe that there should be a sticker somewhere in the engine bay stating if the 90k service had been completed.
The 90k service is basically timing belt and water pump replacement. It'll run you in the $1200 range (thats what it cost on my LS). Dont forget that 90k is the max your car should hit before you change out the TB and WP, so I would do this ASAP. Our engine's are non-interference either way, but id recommend finding out the service record directly from Lexus.
Hope this helps ... just my $0.02
#5
Originally Posted by handzilla
Good advice, guys. Thanks. But if the timing belt had not been replaced, wouldn't Tuffy had said something about it?
#6
Originally Posted by pianovt
The big item in the 90k service is the timing belt. Make sure it's been replaced. If not, and if it fails, you will be stuck looking for a new engine.
Needing a new engine will not be the case with a GS300. All that will happen if the timing belt goes is you will be stranded on the side of the road. No engine damage...
2jz motors are non-interference (so, no bent valves)
#7
Originally Posted by Ronsully
Needing a new engine will not be the case with a GS300. All that will happen if the timing belt goes is you will be stranded on the side of the road. No engine damage...
2jz motors are non-interference (so, no bent valves)
2jz motors are non-interference (so, no bent valves)
I may be wrong, but I am under the impression that the GS300 engine is an interference engine. I am looking at the Lexus service manual, page EM-17 and there is a warning in bold letters about pistons and valves coming into contact.
Could it be that the variable cam timing has turned the original Supra engine into an interference engine in the GS300? I am not familiar with the Supra engine history although I am aware of the fact that the GS300 engine is part of the family. Can you verify?
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#8
Originally Posted by Ronsully
Needing a new engine will not be the case with a GS300. All that will happen if the timing belt goes is you will be stranded on the side of the road. No engine damage...
2jz motors are non-interference (so, no bent valves)
2jz motors are non-interference (so, no bent valves)
Please read posts 23 and 25 at this link:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ference+engine
I think the VVT-i version of the JZ2 engine is an interference design.
#9
if the GS owner had done the TB change at local mechanic shop instead of dealer, i dont think the dealer will have a record of it, right? let say i buy a GS w/ 100K, i called the dealer to run a check and there's no record, but the owner insist that it has been changed (no 90k sticker on engine as well), is there anymore way i can confirm that he's not lying? what about water pump, any ways to tell?
#10
Originally Posted by wmah523
if the GS owner had done the TB change at local mechanic shop instead of dealer, i dont think the dealer will have a record of it, right? let say i buy a GS w/ 100K, i called the dealer to run a check and there's no record, but the owner insist that it has been changed (no 90k sticker on engine as well), is there anymore way i can confirm that he's not lying? what about water pump, any ways to tell?
It's also possible that the timing belt has a date code printed on it that can reveal the manufacturing date. Other things to look for are the brand of the belt - if it's not a Toyota belt, it was replaced. Look at the teeth on the belt; are they rounded, or are the edges realtively crisp?
I would also look at the big nut that holds the crankshaft pulley in place. That one is tightened to over 200 lbf torque. If it was taken off, you will see some marks on it, and if the mechanic was good, he would have wiped off all the dirt from it before putting it back on. So, there are ways to tell if work was done.
#11
Originally Posted by pianovt
Here is what I would do. Remove the four socket cap bolts to remove the plastic cover and expose the timing belt. While it's not possible to look at a timing belt and say how close it is to the end of its service life, it is possible to tell the difference between a 100k mile old belt and one that has only 10k miles on it. In addition, you will find a lot of fine dust all over the place under the timing cover. It's unlikely that someone can change the belt without leaving some finger prints and other marks in the dust.
It's also possible that the timing belt has a date code printed on it that can reveal the manufacturing date. Other things to look for are the brand of the belt - if it's not a Toyota belt, it was replaced. Look at the teeth on the belt; are they rounded, or are the edges realtively crisp?
I would also look at the big nut that holds the crankshaft pulley in place. That one is tightened to over 200 lbf torque. If it was taken off, you will see some marks on it, and if the mechanic was good, he would have wiped off all the dirt from it before putting it back on. So, there are ways to tell if work was done.
It's also possible that the timing belt has a date code printed on it that can reveal the manufacturing date. Other things to look for are the brand of the belt - if it's not a Toyota belt, it was replaced. Look at the teeth on the belt; are they rounded, or are the edges realtively crisp?
I would also look at the big nut that holds the crankshaft pulley in place. That one is tightened to over 200 lbf torque. If it was taken off, you will see some marks on it, and if the mechanic was good, he would have wiped off all the dirt from it before putting it back on. So, there are ways to tell if work was done.
#12
Originally Posted by pianovt
Ronsully,
Please read posts 23 and 25 at this link:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ference+engine
I think the VVT-i version of the JZ2 engine is an interference design.
Please read posts 23 and 25 at this link:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ference+engine
I think the VVT-i version of the JZ2 engine is an interference design.
#13
Okay, so i called them up yesterday evening and they were cool as all hell. I gave 'em the VIN they ran the record and said:
"Well the last owner declined the 90000 mile service."
I thought "SOB!" Then he looked back a record and said that it actually got done at 87000 miles.
Whew! Saved myself about 1100 bucks. But wait. I took my GS in at about 7:30 and just received a call saying that I need rear brakes (worn down to the rotor) $350 and an air filter $58. WTF?!!!?! I just took this car into Tuffy and they charged me $45 for a used car check told me it needed nothing. I still have the checklist from them that sais all was good. Kinda pissed now.
"Well the last owner declined the 90000 mile service."
I thought "SOB!" Then he looked back a record and said that it actually got done at 87000 miles.
Whew! Saved myself about 1100 bucks. But wait. I took my GS in at about 7:30 and just received a call saying that I need rear brakes (worn down to the rotor) $350 and an air filter $58. WTF?!!!?! I just took this car into Tuffy and they charged me $45 for a used car check told me it needed nothing. I still have the checklist from them that sais all was good. Kinda pissed now.
#14
Originally Posted by handzilla
Okay, so i called them up yesterday evening and they were cool as all hell. I gave 'em the VIN they ran the record and said:
"Well the last owner declined the 90000 mile service."
I thought "SOB!" Then he looked back a record and said that it actually got done at 87000 miles.
Whew! Saved myself about 1100 bucks. But wait. I took my GS in at about 7:30 and just received a call saying that I need rear brakes (worn down to the rotor) $350 and an air filter $58. WTF?!!!?! I just took this car into Tuffy and they charged me $45 for a used car check told me it needed nothing. I still have the checklist from them that sais all was good. Kinda pissed now.
"Well the last owner declined the 90000 mile service."
I thought "SOB!" Then he looked back a record and said that it actually got done at 87000 miles.
Whew! Saved myself about 1100 bucks. But wait. I took my GS in at about 7:30 and just received a call saying that I need rear brakes (worn down to the rotor) $350 and an air filter $58. WTF?!!!?! I just took this car into Tuffy and they charged me $45 for a used car check told me it needed nothing. I still have the checklist from them that sais all was good. Kinda pissed now.
Regarding that "Tuffy" place, I would ask the dealer to write down the % pad material remaining on the invoice and ask "Tuffy" to return your money. You can always report them to the Bureau of Automotive Repair in your state and they know that.
#15
Originally Posted by handzilla
. But wait. I took my GS in at about 7:30 and just received a call saying that I need rear brakes (worn down to the rotor) $350 and an air filter $58. WTF?!!!?! I just took this car into Tuffy and they charged me $45 for a used car check told me it needed nothing. I still have the checklist from them that sais all was good. Kinda pissed now.
Lexus pads cost between $60-80 bucks. If you have any sort of mechanical skill (And I'm talking really minimal here) you may want to give it a shot. If you are uncomfortable get a buddy who has some experience to help you and save yourself some cash with the bonus of getting the warm fuzzy feeling of knowing it was done right . Filter is a pop and drop thing as others have said. So worst case you are out about $100 bucks and a couple hours o-your-life . Good luck and enjoy the car bro!!
The ATLien
Last edited by ATLien; 03-29-06 at 10:55 AM.