Steering pre-tensioner—how do you do it? (I searched)
#31
Pole Position
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the local NTB tire place adjust mine yesterday. I watched him do it; he had a socket big enough to fit the large "nut" that the screwdriver above is touching, and my car had notches for every 1/8 inch or so. Also, the adjustment to tighten was COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, not clockwise. Nothing else needs to be removed or taken apart, just that big nut needs to be turned. It wasn't 1/8 or 1/4 either - it was slightly more than that.
#32
exclusive matchup
iTrader: (4)
it's the same for a gs3/4/4.3. some early year GS like 1998 don't have this adjustment. I'm not sure about 1999 but my 2000 has it.
I think Rominl said his 1988 didn't have it but he later added this on when he changed his steering rack.
Hmmmm, I always thought turning it CLOCKWISE to tighten, outer nut turning counter clockwise to loosen then turning larger inside bolt CLOCKWISE to firm things up.
I think Rominl said his 1988 didn't have it but he later added this on when he changed his steering rack.
Hmmmm, I always thought turning it CLOCKWISE to tighten, outer nut turning counter clockwise to loosen then turning larger inside bolt CLOCKWISE to firm things up.
congrats on fixing the problem!
#33
it's the same for a gs3/4/4.3. some early year GS like 1998 don't have this adjustment. I'm not sure about 1999 but my 2000 has it.
I think Rominl said his 1988 didn't have it but he later added this on when he changed his steering rack.
Hmmmm, I always thought turning it CLOCKWISE to tighten, outer nut turning counter clockwise to loosen then turning larger inside bolt CLOCKWISE to firm things up.
I think Rominl said his 1988 didn't have it but he later added this on when he changed his steering rack.
Hmmmm, I always thought turning it CLOCKWISE to tighten, outer nut turning counter clockwise to loosen then turning larger inside bolt CLOCKWISE to firm things up.
I'm just telling you my experience from yesterday with my 98 GS 300. I have no idea about early model 98's (I think mine was made later in 98) or anything past that.
#35
#38
HMM,
I've had 2 1999 GS400 with 16 inch wheels and tires, and I've never had this shake in the steering wheel at speed. I used Yokohama tires on the first GS, and I have Michelin Pilots on the GS I have now. No problems so far with 127,000 miles on the odometer. If I develop trouble, I'll look into this.
I've found that wheels 17 inches and larger are more likely to have this problem, but I'm sure some cars with 16 inch rims also vibrate. I drove a few cars with the 17 inch option and felt the shake every time, so I tried the 16's and liked it. Not everyone likes the small rims like me. The GS looks better with larger rims and tires for sure.
I've had 2 1999 GS400 with 16 inch wheels and tires, and I've never had this shake in the steering wheel at speed. I used Yokohama tires on the first GS, and I have Michelin Pilots on the GS I have now. No problems so far with 127,000 miles on the odometer. If I develop trouble, I'll look into this.
I've found that wheels 17 inches and larger are more likely to have this problem, but I'm sure some cars with 16 inch rims also vibrate. I drove a few cars with the 17 inch option and felt the shake every time, so I tried the 16's and liked it. Not everyone likes the small rims like me. The GS looks better with larger rims and tires for sure.
Last edited by gserep1; 10-22-06 at 02:59 AM.
#40
So I am guessing that since my car was manufactured 9/97 I won't have it? I have been trying to fix this problem for the longest time and am getting pretty annoyed, like you must have been, with this problem.
#42
Pole Position
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#43
Nice to see you finally resolved the issue I had this problem with my 99 and I simply replaced the bushings and front control arms. Shaking never came back Feels awesome to drive w/o that shaking crap!
#45
Lexus Test Driver
There's a link about adjusting the pre-tensioner, which I had never done. Actually there's a few links on here, the one I'm referring to has some mis-information compared to what I've found out. Anyway, the thread refers to this picture:
I've read those that said "You have to loosen up the nut first and then tighten the big hex head in the center." and "it tightens by turning it clockwise" and "You need a to mark the nut first and a chisel to tighten the nut"
I had the local NTB tire place adjust mine yesterday. I watched him do it; he had a socket big enough to fit the large "nut" that the screwdriver above is touching, and my car had notches for every 1/8 inch or so. Also, the adjustment to tighten was COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, not clockwise. Nothing else needs to be removed or taken apart, just that big nut needs to be turned. It wasn't 1/8 or 1/4 either - it was slightly more than that.
Also, we adjusted it many times! Probably about 12 times. At first I'd drive my car back into the bay and we'd lift it up and he'd walk under and tighten it slightly, lower the lift, and then I'd test drive it on the highway.
After a few times doing this, he was pretty sure he could get to it without even jacking the car up or putting it on a lift, and he was right.
Shawn
I've read those that said "You have to loosen up the nut first and then tighten the big hex head in the center." and "it tightens by turning it clockwise" and "You need a to mark the nut first and a chisel to tighten the nut"
I had the local NTB tire place adjust mine yesterday. I watched him do it; he had a socket big enough to fit the large "nut" that the screwdriver above is touching, and my car had notches for every 1/8 inch or so. Also, the adjustment to tighten was COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, not clockwise. Nothing else needs to be removed or taken apart, just that big nut needs to be turned. It wasn't 1/8 or 1/4 either - it was slightly more than that.
Also, we adjusted it many times! Probably about 12 times. At first I'd drive my car back into the bay and we'd lift it up and he'd walk under and tighten it slightly, lower the lift, and then I'd test drive it on the highway.
After a few times doing this, he was pretty sure he could get to it without even jacking the car up or putting it on a lift, and he was right.
Shawn
Forgive explicit detail, but I need to know exactly what to get to do this myself.
I was contemplating using a pipe wrench to loosen the "nut" and use engin-ear's bolt sizing from a previous post to tighten the bolt.
Thanks for the confirmation and congrats on the improved ride. This has become the only achilles heel of my car, and has me looking for a replacement if it can't be remedied.
Also, if it's not too much trouble, could you call and get the size of the socket he used. Seems like a friendly enough person to take the time with you. Hopefully he can save me some time too.
Last edited by STONER; 10-24-06 at 06:38 AM.