GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Oil Pan

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Old 05-06-06 | 09:04 PM
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Default Oil Pan

i may have stripped my oil pan where drain plug goes. i tightened the drain plug screw, it got tight...not super tight so i gave it a harder tug and it started to spin but not tighten anymore. i turned it a few times hoping it would tighten up but it didnt. could it be the bolt or do you guys think i need a new pan? is the oil pan the same as the one on the toyota supra since its the same motor?
Old 05-06-06 | 10:04 PM
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Grt new drain plug and tight it gently. If that wont work, you'll have to recalibrate thread or get new pan
Old 05-06-06 | 10:29 PM
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do i have to dop the pan out to rethread it?
Old 05-06-06 | 11:27 PM
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my gf's car had a striped oil pan.... before i went out and got a replacement pan for her, i just bought a new bolt and slowly screwed it in all the way and then back out...did that a couple of times

then i used a napkin and fed it into the hole played with it for a little...then pour some oil to flush out any more shavings that were inside.

try that first before getting a new pan.
Old 05-07-06 | 12:38 AM
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did you buy a larger diameter drain bolt or did you buy the same oem one? thanks
Old 05-07-06 | 10:13 AM
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How is the condiction of the oil pan plug seal?

Without using a plug seal, or using a worn one, causes the plug to bottom in the pan. If one checks the plug close, there are no threads at the plug head; so it tends to strip out the pan nut inside the pan if forced. This is because the seal also acts as a spacer to keep the plug head from bottoming, thus using good plug thread.

Your options are to remove the pan to retap it or use a universal rubber screw stopper as a temporary fix. Use care not to migrate any shavings or old trreads inside the pan.
Old 05-07-06 | 12:13 PM
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does anyone know the thread size? im going to see if a new plug will do the trick. if not, i guess im going to have to drop the pan. where can i get it retapped or should i do it myself?
Old 05-07-06 | 03:26 PM
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First, expect problem getting the drain bolt out. Once the trailing edge thereads get messed up, it is very difficult to get the plug out.

Once you have the bolt out, take it to pep boys or other shops and you will see a full option of next size bolts in fine and regular threads. Buy a tap to match the threads and a drill bit (if required) to match the bore.

Next is the choice of tapping with the pan on or off. With pan on, apply grease liberally on the tap and cut new threads. Puor a qt of oil and let it drain out to flush metal particles.

Pan off is better [recomended] {to take the bolt out maybe you will have to take the pan off}. Tap and and clean the pan. Buy FIPG paste to seat and seal the pan. Torque the pan bolts [use toque wrench ].

Wait 2 hrs and fill oil.

Salim
Old 05-07-06 | 08:34 PM
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thanks for the advice. is there a torque spec for the drain plug? i dont ever want to do this again.
Old 04-11-08 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ILOVEGIRLS
thanks for the advice. is there a torque spec for the drain plug? i dont ever want to do this again.
I haven't stripped mine but...
Old 04-11-08 | 01:31 PM
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I just go by feel to where it's snug enough lol.
Old 04-11-08 | 03:34 PM
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I think "by feel" is what got most people in trouble

I know a 1/2" ratchet feels a lot different than a 1/4" ratchet

Anyways, the oil drain bolt should be torqued to 29ftlbs.
Old 04-11-08 | 06:51 PM
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could probably heli-coil it too.
Old 04-12-08 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ILOVEGIRLS
thanks for the advice. is there a torque spec for the drain plug? i dont ever want to do this again.
38 Nm (380 kgf.cm) = 28 ft. lbs.
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