Double Din in-dash with 6-disc DVD changer
06-04-06, 03:56 PM
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Double Din in-dash with 6-disc DVD changer
Installed. Thanks to LexTPOP for the inspiration:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=193927
I followed his example for installation. Final look:
Harness created for using factory wiring (used two Metra 70-1761 wiring harness kits):
Hiding the remote sensor for the changer in the clock area:
Enlarging the glovebox backing for the new slightly larger changer:
Link to more installation pictures:
http://www.paulhillmaniii.com/projects/LexusStereo
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=193927
I followed his example for installation. Final look:
Harness created for using factory wiring (used two Metra 70-1761 wiring harness kits):
Hiding the remote sensor for the changer in the clock area:
Enlarging the glovebox backing for the new slightly larger changer:
Link to more installation pictures:
http://www.paulhillmaniii.com/projects/LexusStereo
06-04-06, 05:49 PM
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Nice - go to PepBoys, Autozone or whatever in your neighborhood and buy some black door edge guard strips and run it around your changer opening - it will finish it off nicely...
06-04-06, 06:01 PM
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I sanded the edges on mine and it came out pretty clean. My install is here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=193927 and the changer picture is on the second page. AZ-GS300 did I fine job. I know exactly what they went through and it was a challenge but worth it.
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06-05-06, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by LexTPOP
AZ-GS300, did you use the factory amp or bypass it? I could not get it to work with the new unit no matter what tricks I used.
06-05-06, 04:19 AM
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I did find that the factory amp is tightly integrated with the factory head unit. It appeared to me the head unit has no amp at all and the volume control controls volume at the amp. I just did not know if you found a way to work around it.
I ended up running 12 gauge double jacketed wire to each speaker from amps in the trunk. It was not easy but the design of the car made it easier. The wire "boots" on the doors and the junction boxes on the door pillars were convenient. I did not want to take a chance on getting any resistance between the speakers and amp using the smaller factory wiring. The only difficult one with the 1/2" plus diameter cable was the rear door boots. It is a bit longer but I was able to get it through.
I have sold the factory amp and changer cartridges but I still have the pioneer head unit and working CD changer. If anyone is interested in purchasing, PM me.
I ended up running 12 gauge double jacketed wire to each speaker from amps in the trunk. It was not easy but the design of the car made it easier. The wire "boots" on the doors and the junction boxes on the door pillars were convenient. I did not want to take a chance on getting any resistance between the speakers and amp using the smaller factory wiring. The only difficult one with the 1/2" plus diameter cable was the rear door boots. It is a bit longer but I was able to get it through.
I have sold the factory amp and changer cartridges but I still have the pioneer head unit and working CD changer. If anyone is interested in purchasing, PM me.
06-05-06, 08:48 AM
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The work around was to run the wires from the head unit to where the amp had been and connect to the connectors there. That's why the harness I made was so long. Basically, it takes the hi level outputs from the stereo and uses the factory wiring for the regular speakers. Since the deck isn't a huge power monster, the factory wires are more than adequate for now. I haven't hooked up an amp on the stock sub yet. Probably won't bother. I'll be working on creating my own box for a pair of subs this week.
On the harness, the long section is for the corner speakers. The short section is for the power, ground, and accessory leads. And of course, the signal that makes the stereo think the parking brake is on for playing DVDs. I hate tearing a car apart any more than I have to. I figure I'll be doing enough of that when I run the wires for the amp for the sub.
On the harness, the long section is for the corner speakers. The short section is for the power, ground, and accessory leads. And of course, the signal that makes the stereo think the parking brake is on for playing DVDs. I hate tearing a car apart any more than I have to. I figure I'll be doing enough of that when I run the wires for the amp for the sub.
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