Inside Wear On Front Tires?
12-06-01, 10:32 AM
#46
This is not direct Lexus experiance, but it has helped with my Infiniti. I hope it helps someone here. Especially since I've looking at the GS as my next car.
For those who are experiancing severe wear on the inside of the tire, you need to consider replacing all of the associated bushings and the bolts for the suspension.
On my Q45, I need to replace both the upper links and the bolts to get the car to stay aligned. This car uses a version of the 300xz suspension, an is very susceptable to falling out of alignment if you don' t change the bolts and links every 30K.
Also, bushings change under load, what looks fine on the jack stands my be severely deformed under load. I'd change the bushings (use factory, not aftermarket) just to be safe.
I assume the GS is simliar as it uses a very sophisticated suspension up front. Also, the wear index and construction of the tires really affects how well the hold up to the high wieght and loading of the suspension. Personally, I would use the best Michelins you can afford to minimize the risk of breaking a belt.
I've referenced a few posts from the Infiniti Club over at Yahoo which might help with these problems.
Post 26120
"...New [since 98] Lexus [LS/SC/GS] has a more rigid design [to increase handling performance]we are seeing upper and lower A arm wear along with their version of a tension rod failure. Replacement runs a $1000 PER SIDE!
Good handling is stressful on something and it must wear......pick a sloppy handler and you will be happier..."
Post 25318
"...The problem with differences from side to side is the car handles differently depending on which way you turn.
+ 0.5 to -0.5 camber won't cause any inside edge wear but radial tires need some negative camber to compensate for the postive camber induced when the tire is stressed under a turn [bushing compression under load].
The factory measured the loads with new bushings and optimized the alignment specs for handling....now not to say with worn bushings that more of everything maybe needed to accomplish optimum handling.
The stiffer the sidewall the less camber change occurs on [in] a tire [due to sidewall roll under] so the -0.8 becomes a net 0.0 at the road.
A soft sidewall [single ply 15"] may need -1.5 degrees camber [or more] to accomplish the same goal of ZERO camber at the tire road interface under a 0.6G load.
The rear suspension has much more compliance [2 rear bushings on the camber rod [+ 2 on the bottom of hub locator rod] and the silicone bushings in the subframe] so the recommended camber is around -1.2 [for a hard sidewall OEM tire].
When one uses single ply sidewalls on the rear another 0.5 degrees of negative camber must be added to optimize so -1.7 negative.
Going straight ahead anymore than -0.8 front will cause inside edge tire wear especially if the toe is not correct or changes under load [bad rack bushings/bad worn rack/tie rod ends...tension rods]......too much negative camber is detrimential to braking besides the wear problem..."
Post 25953
"...The upper link with its 2 rubber bushings is the only isolation between the wheel and the body!
It is very rigid when new. Road roughness and tire/wheel/rotor imbalance [constant small vibration] or more typical massive vibration wear the rubber out creating more and more slop!
The passenger side wears first [fastest] because that side of the road is rougher than the center [trucks cause this].
Using harder [higher treadwear] than OEM spec 170-200 will accelerate the wear of upper links as the harder tire has less compliance and doesn't share some of the vibratory load. Heavier wheels are a major culprit as is infrequent alignment.
A urethane bushing has no compliance [little] so the road vibration transmitted to the body will increase dramatically!!!!!
The Q was designed as a no compromise handler [for its weight]. Every trick they knew was incorporated.
A $38k car in 90 [target $100k + annual family income] would sell for $60k today and it does. The 120,000 weathliest Americans who purchase such cars [all brands combined] annually were expected to ignore [the cost of] such minor replacements as tires, brakes, suspension parts as a necessary evil to squeeze the level of performance they targeted out of the Q.
[Afterall BMW735, 300ZX, and MB 500 owners were happy to put up with it]!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4% of the purchase price or $1500 per year [in 1990 dollars] average cost of maintenance was deemed ok in this class [prorated tires, balancing, alignments, brakes, suspension, 30k, 60k etc. fluid exchanges].
Tires and brakes had a 15,000-20,000 mile max life to assure that the braking distance was minimized, upper links 30k, shocks were adequate for the warranty of 60k or 6 years. The dealer maintenance standards were set high and enough to keep the car it good condition for 6 years if the money was spent...."
For those who are experiancing severe wear on the inside of the tire, you need to consider replacing all of the associated bushings and the bolts for the suspension.
On my Q45, I need to replace both the upper links and the bolts to get the car to stay aligned. This car uses a version of the 300xz suspension, an is very susceptable to falling out of alignment if you don' t change the bolts and links every 30K.
Also, bushings change under load, what looks fine on the jack stands my be severely deformed under load. I'd change the bushings (use factory, not aftermarket) just to be safe.
I assume the GS is simliar as it uses a very sophisticated suspension up front. Also, the wear index and construction of the tires really affects how well the hold up to the high wieght and loading of the suspension. Personally, I would use the best Michelins you can afford to minimize the risk of breaking a belt.
I've referenced a few posts from the Infiniti Club over at Yahoo which might help with these problems.
Post 26120
"...New [since 98] Lexus [LS/SC/GS] has a more rigid design [to increase handling performance]we are seeing upper and lower A arm wear along with their version of a tension rod failure. Replacement runs a $1000 PER SIDE!
Good handling is stressful on something and it must wear......pick a sloppy handler and you will be happier..."
Post 25318
"...The problem with differences from side to side is the car handles differently depending on which way you turn.
+ 0.5 to -0.5 camber won't cause any inside edge wear but radial tires need some negative camber to compensate for the postive camber induced when the tire is stressed under a turn [bushing compression under load].
The factory measured the loads with new bushings and optimized the alignment specs for handling....now not to say with worn bushings that more of everything maybe needed to accomplish optimum handling.
The stiffer the sidewall the less camber change occurs on [in] a tire [due to sidewall roll under] so the -0.8 becomes a net 0.0 at the road.
A soft sidewall [single ply 15"] may need -1.5 degrees camber [or more] to accomplish the same goal of ZERO camber at the tire road interface under a 0.6G load.
The rear suspension has much more compliance [2 rear bushings on the camber rod [+ 2 on the bottom of hub locator rod] and the silicone bushings in the subframe] so the recommended camber is around -1.2 [for a hard sidewall OEM tire].
When one uses single ply sidewalls on the rear another 0.5 degrees of negative camber must be added to optimize so -1.7 negative.
Going straight ahead anymore than -0.8 front will cause inside edge tire wear especially if the toe is not correct or changes under load [bad rack bushings/bad worn rack/tie rod ends...tension rods]......too much negative camber is detrimential to braking besides the wear problem..."
Post 25953
"...The upper link with its 2 rubber bushings is the only isolation between the wheel and the body!
It is very rigid when new. Road roughness and tire/wheel/rotor imbalance [constant small vibration] or more typical massive vibration wear the rubber out creating more and more slop!
The passenger side wears first [fastest] because that side of the road is rougher than the center [trucks cause this].
Using harder [higher treadwear] than OEM spec 170-200 will accelerate the wear of upper links as the harder tire has less compliance and doesn't share some of the vibratory load. Heavier wheels are a major culprit as is infrequent alignment.
A urethane bushing has no compliance [little] so the road vibration transmitted to the body will increase dramatically!!!!!
The Q was designed as a no compromise handler [for its weight]. Every trick they knew was incorporated.
A $38k car in 90 [target $100k + annual family income] would sell for $60k today and it does. The 120,000 weathliest Americans who purchase such cars [all brands combined] annually were expected to ignore [the cost of] such minor replacements as tires, brakes, suspension parts as a necessary evil to squeeze the level of performance they targeted out of the Q.
[Afterall BMW735, 300ZX, and MB 500 owners were happy to put up with it]!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4% of the purchase price or $1500 per year [in 1990 dollars] average cost of maintenance was deemed ok in this class [prorated tires, balancing, alignments, brakes, suspension, 30k, 60k etc. fluid exchanges].
Tires and brakes had a 15,000-20,000 mile max life to assure that the braking distance was minimized, upper links 30k, shocks were adequate for the warranty of 60k or 6 years. The dealer maintenance standards were set high and enough to keep the car it good condition for 6 years if the money was spent...."
12-06-01, 12:08 PM
#47
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Originally posted by jberger
This is not direct Lexus experiance, but it has helped with my Infiniti. I hope it helps someone here. Especially since I've looking at the GS as my next car.
For those who are experiancing severe wear on the inside of the tire, you need to consider replacing all of the associated bushings and the bolts for the suspension.
On my Q45, I need to replace both the upper links and the bolts to get the car to stay aligned. This car uses a version of the 300xz suspension, an is very susceptable to falling out of alignment if you don' t change the bolts and links every 30K.
Also, bushings change under load, what looks fine on the jack stands my be severely deformed under load. I'd change the bushings (use factory, not aftermarket) just to be safe.
I assume the GS is simliar as it uses a very sophisticated suspension up front. Also, the wear index and construction of the tires really affects how well the hold up to the high wieght and loading of the suspension. Personally, I would use the best Michelins you can afford to minimize the risk of breaking a belt.
I've referenced a few posts from the Infiniti Club over at Yahoo which might help with these problems.
Post 26120
"...New [since 98] Lexus [LS/SC/GS] has a more rigid design [to increase handling performance]we are seeing upper and lower A arm wear along with their version of a tension rod failure. Replacement runs a $1000 PER SIDE!
Good handling is stressful on something and it must wear......pick a sloppy handler and you will be happier..."
Post 25318
"...The problem with differences from side to side is the car handles differently depending on which way you turn.
+ 0.5 to -0.5 camber won't cause any inside edge wear but radial tires need some negative camber to compensate for the postive camber induced when the tire is stressed under a turn [bushing compression under load].
The factory measured the loads with new bushings and optimized the alignment specs for handling....now not to say with worn bushings that more of everything maybe needed to accomplish optimum handling.
The stiffer the sidewall the less camber change occurs on [in] a tire [due to sidewall roll under] so the -0.8 becomes a net 0.0 at the road.
A soft sidewall [single ply 15"] may need -1.5 degrees camber [or more] to accomplish the same goal of ZERO camber at the tire road interface under a 0.6G load.
The rear suspension has much more compliance [2 rear bushings on the camber rod [+ 2 on the bottom of hub locator rod] and the silicone bushings in the subframe] so the recommended camber is around -1.2 [for a hard sidewall OEM tire].
When one uses single ply sidewalls on the rear another 0.5 degrees of negative camber must be added to optimize so -1.7 negative.
Going straight ahead anymore than -0.8 front will cause inside edge tire wear especially if the toe is not correct or changes under load [bad rack bushings/bad worn rack/tie rod ends...tension rods]......too much negative camber is detrimential to braking besides the wear problem..."
Post 25953
"...The upper link with its 2 rubber bushings is the only isolation between the wheel and the body!
It is very rigid when new. Road roughness and tire/wheel/rotor imbalance [constant small vibration] or more typical massive vibration wear the rubber out creating more and more slop!
The passenger side wears first [fastest] because that side of the road is rougher than the center [trucks cause this].
Using harder [higher treadwear] than OEM spec 170-200 will accelerate the wear of upper links as the harder tire has less compliance and doesn't share some of the vibratory load. Heavier wheels are a major culprit as is infrequent alignment.
A urethane bushing has no compliance [little] so the road vibration transmitted to the body will increase dramatically!!!!!
The Q was designed as a no compromise handler [for its weight]. Every trick they knew was incorporated.
A $38k car in 90 [target $100k + annual family income] would sell for $60k today and it does. The 120,000 weathliest Americans who purchase such cars [all brands combined] annually were expected to ignore [the cost of] such minor replacements as tires, brakes, suspension parts as a necessary evil to squeeze the level of performance they targeted out of the Q.
[Afterall BMW735, 300ZX, and MB 500 owners were happy to put up with it]!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4% of the purchase price or $1500 per year [in 1990 dollars] average cost of maintenance was deemed ok in this class [prorated tires, balancing, alignments, brakes, suspension, 30k, 60k etc. fluid exchanges].
Tires and brakes had a 15,000-20,000 mile max life to assure that the braking distance was minimized, upper links 30k, shocks were adequate for the warranty of 60k or 6 years. The dealer maintenance standards were set high and enough to keep the car it good condition for 6 years if the money was spent...."
This is not direct Lexus experiance, but it has helped with my Infiniti. I hope it helps someone here. Especially since I've looking at the GS as my next car.
For those who are experiancing severe wear on the inside of the tire, you need to consider replacing all of the associated bushings and the bolts for the suspension.
On my Q45, I need to replace both the upper links and the bolts to get the car to stay aligned. This car uses a version of the 300xz suspension, an is very susceptable to falling out of alignment if you don' t change the bolts and links every 30K.
Also, bushings change under load, what looks fine on the jack stands my be severely deformed under load. I'd change the bushings (use factory, not aftermarket) just to be safe.
I assume the GS is simliar as it uses a very sophisticated suspension up front. Also, the wear index and construction of the tires really affects how well the hold up to the high wieght and loading of the suspension. Personally, I would use the best Michelins you can afford to minimize the risk of breaking a belt.
I've referenced a few posts from the Infiniti Club over at Yahoo which might help with these problems.
Post 26120
"...New [since 98] Lexus [LS/SC/GS] has a more rigid design [to increase handling performance]we are seeing upper and lower A arm wear along with their version of a tension rod failure. Replacement runs a $1000 PER SIDE!
Good handling is stressful on something and it must wear......pick a sloppy handler and you will be happier..."
Post 25318
"...The problem with differences from side to side is the car handles differently depending on which way you turn.
+ 0.5 to -0.5 camber won't cause any inside edge wear but radial tires need some negative camber to compensate for the postive camber induced when the tire is stressed under a turn [bushing compression under load].
The factory measured the loads with new bushings and optimized the alignment specs for handling....now not to say with worn bushings that more of everything maybe needed to accomplish optimum handling.
The stiffer the sidewall the less camber change occurs on [in] a tire [due to sidewall roll under] so the -0.8 becomes a net 0.0 at the road.
A soft sidewall [single ply 15"] may need -1.5 degrees camber [or more] to accomplish the same goal of ZERO camber at the tire road interface under a 0.6G load.
The rear suspension has much more compliance [2 rear bushings on the camber rod [+ 2 on the bottom of hub locator rod] and the silicone bushings in the subframe] so the recommended camber is around -1.2 [for a hard sidewall OEM tire].
When one uses single ply sidewalls on the rear another 0.5 degrees of negative camber must be added to optimize so -1.7 negative.
Going straight ahead anymore than -0.8 front will cause inside edge tire wear especially if the toe is not correct or changes under load [bad rack bushings/bad worn rack/tie rod ends...tension rods]......too much negative camber is detrimential to braking besides the wear problem..."
Post 25953
"...The upper link with its 2 rubber bushings is the only isolation between the wheel and the body!
It is very rigid when new. Road roughness and tire/wheel/rotor imbalance [constant small vibration] or more typical massive vibration wear the rubber out creating more and more slop!
The passenger side wears first [fastest] because that side of the road is rougher than the center [trucks cause this].
Using harder [higher treadwear] than OEM spec 170-200 will accelerate the wear of upper links as the harder tire has less compliance and doesn't share some of the vibratory load. Heavier wheels are a major culprit as is infrequent alignment.
A urethane bushing has no compliance [little] so the road vibration transmitted to the body will increase dramatically!!!!!
The Q was designed as a no compromise handler [for its weight]. Every trick they knew was incorporated.
A $38k car in 90 [target $100k + annual family income] would sell for $60k today and it does. The 120,000 weathliest Americans who purchase such cars [all brands combined] annually were expected to ignore [the cost of] such minor replacements as tires, brakes, suspension parts as a necessary evil to squeeze the level of performance they targeted out of the Q.
[Afterall BMW735, 300ZX, and MB 500 owners were happy to put up with it]!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4% of the purchase price or $1500 per year [in 1990 dollars] average cost of maintenance was deemed ok in this class [prorated tires, balancing, alignments, brakes, suspension, 30k, 60k etc. fluid exchanges].
Tires and brakes had a 15,000-20,000 mile max life to assure that the braking distance was minimized, upper links 30k, shocks were adequate for the warranty of 60k or 6 years. The dealer maintenance standards were set high and enough to keep the car it good condition for 6 years if the money was spent...."
12-16-01, 05:29 PM
#48
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Just put my 19's on and noticed the sever inside tire wear on the fronts (17's). I can only assume the it's going to be that much worse with my 19's. Can anyone recomend the best alignment shop in So cal who has delt with this camber issue. I talked to my current mechanic and has no clue about camber.818 213 323
12-17-01, 06:02 AM
#49
I'd have to say, if your mechanic does not know anything about camber, don't let him touch your tires or suspension. He may be fine for an oil change, but you really need to reconsider him for the tough stuff.
Find a shop that specializes in suspension and alignments to get the job done right. See where most of your local SCCA and Porcshe members have thier tires and alignments done and go there. Even better, once you get there, have them set everything up with you in the driver seat, so that everything is loaded for regular driving. You will pay more, but it is worth it.
It's the severe front tire wear that bothers me, I can understand why the rears would go, but not the fronts. It must be a worn component in the front end. The question is, which one.
Find a shop that specializes in suspension and alignments to get the job done right. See where most of your local SCCA and Porcshe members have thier tires and alignments done and go there. Even better, once you get there, have them set everything up with you in the driver seat, so that everything is loaded for regular driving. You will pay more, but it is worth it.
It's the severe front tire wear that bothers me, I can understand why the rears would go, but not the fronts. It must be a worn component in the front end. The question is, which one.
12-19-01, 10:39 PM
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same thing
Put a brand new set of ZR rated Yokos 7 months ago and already the inner fronts are down. Car was aligned at the time to the best the place could do since they told me that the car could not properly be aligned to factory specs. They also would not warranty the tires and suggested that I contact Lexus. Lexus checked the alignment and said that the lowering kit (LTune) caused the problem. They would not honor the alignment or tires. So, rotate ,rotate.
12-20-01, 04:59 AM
#51
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Are you ****tin me?
Originally posted by loplap
snip.... Lexus checked the alignment and said that the lowering kit (LTune) caused the problem. They would not honor the alignment or tires.
snip.... Lexus checked the alignment and said that the lowering kit (LTune) caused the problem. They would not honor the alignment or tires.
That is complete BS. Something is wrong here.......You should pursue the Service Manager at the dealership that told you this, and if you get no resolution, call corporate.
12-21-01, 04:33 PM
#52
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Yea that is total; Bull******! The lowering hads nothing to do w/ allignment. Although lower & wider tires may contribute top the already existing problem that our cars have "FROM THE FACTORY!"
12-21-01, 04:38 PM
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Called Johnson alignment (310)370-6301. He seems to know what he's doing. 90 Waranty $100 4 Wheel Alignment. He said he can restore my factory camber but what I need is a shop that can adjust to the new, L-tuned/19" Rim setup
12-21-01, 06:06 PM
#54
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yep
Dealer did not install the LTune kit which is the reason given. Lowering does affect alignment a bit ,even with a 1" drop like ours. So it certainly exasperate the factory problem. This concerns me and I am hoping that someone will come up with a camber kit to correct this like other car makes have at their disposal. Im more concerned with the consistent vibration at the front end and plan on installing the updated steering kit,bushings,and linkage that the Lexus TSB list for 98-99 models.
12-21-01, 06:13 PM
#55
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>>>enginyr,
Try calling these guys about the alignment...Nick is the tech:
Spence Wheel Alignment
1133 S Central Ave
Glendale, CA 91204
(818) 244-7228
Let us know what they say!
>>>loplap
Can you give more info on the TSB you mentioned...ie., number ect...please post
Now I am really concerned...just got my 17's and now this...
Try calling these guys about the alignment...Nick is the tech:
Spence Wheel Alignment
1133 S Central Ave
Glendale, CA 91204
(818) 244-7228
Let us know what they say!
>>>loplap
Can you give more info on the TSB you mentioned...ie., number ect...please post
Now I am really concerned...just got my 17's and now this...
12-25-01, 06:39 AM
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Generally for each 1.0" of lowering the camber goes 0.7 degrees more negative. The factory adjustment does not usually have enough range to cope with bushing wear and lowering especially if one wishes to set the camber at exactly the mid point [correct point] of the range.
Wider tires wheels and larger diameter wheels usually weight more than OEM, thus the stresses are multiplied by the increased weight. Even 5 pounds more per wheel/tire combo is significant!
If bushing last 60k with OEM, expect something like HALF the LIFE with heavy wheels 18" and 1/3 [20k] with massive 20".
The reason many Michelin tires react better [less feathering or heal and toe wear] is the underlying cord materials are stronger [able to resist the tread block squirm better] and they have had lots of experience dealing with similar problems on heavy MB500 and 735 - 740/750 BMW/Audi A8 for 15 years.
Many plus sizes don't meet the OEM load rating [because the volume of air is diminished]. X volume of air at 44 psi supports 1521 pounds [95 rating] if you go to an 18,19,20 the width must be so wide that they won't fit. Lower than OEM load index has a dramatic downward effect on tire life.
Wider tires wheels and larger diameter wheels usually weight more than OEM, thus the stresses are multiplied by the increased weight. Even 5 pounds more per wheel/tire combo is significant!
If bushing last 60k with OEM, expect something like HALF the LIFE with heavy wheels 18" and 1/3 [20k] with massive 20".
The reason many Michelin tires react better [less feathering or heal and toe wear] is the underlying cord materials are stronger [able to resist the tread block squirm better] and they have had lots of experience dealing with similar problems on heavy MB500 and 735 - 740/750 BMW/Audi A8 for 15 years.
Many plus sizes don't meet the OEM load rating [because the volume of air is diminished]. X volume of air at 44 psi supports 1521 pounds [95 rating] if you go to an 18,19,20 the width must be so wide that they won't fit. Lower than OEM load index has a dramatic downward effect on tire life.
12-25-01, 11:20 AM
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Originally posted by T3man
Generally for each 1.0" of lowering the camber goes 0.7 degrees more negative. The factory adjustment does not usually have enough range to cope with bushing wear and lowering especially if one wishes to set the camber at exactly the mid point [correct point] of the range.
Wider tires wheels and larger diameter wheels usually weight more than OEM, thus the stresses are multiplied by the increased weight. Even 5 pounds more per wheel/tire combo is significant!
If bushing last 60k with OEM, expect something like HALF the LIFE with heavy wheels 18" and 1/3 [20k] with massive 20".
The reason many Michelin tires react better [less feathering or heal and toe wear] is the underlying cord materials are stronger [able to resist the tread block squirm better] and they have had lots of experience dealing with similar problems on heavy MB500 and 735 - 740/750 BMW/Audi A8 for 15 years.
Many plus sizes don't meet the OEM load rating [because the volume of air is diminished]. X volume of air at 44 psi supports 1521 pounds [95 rating] if you go to an 18,19,20 the width must be so wide that they won't fit. Lower than OEM load index has a dramatic downward effect on tire life.
Generally for each 1.0" of lowering the camber goes 0.7 degrees more negative. The factory adjustment does not usually have enough range to cope with bushing wear and lowering especially if one wishes to set the camber at exactly the mid point [correct point] of the range.
Wider tires wheels and larger diameter wheels usually weight more than OEM, thus the stresses are multiplied by the increased weight. Even 5 pounds more per wheel/tire combo is significant!
If bushing last 60k with OEM, expect something like HALF the LIFE with heavy wheels 18" and 1/3 [20k] with massive 20".
The reason many Michelin tires react better [less feathering or heal and toe wear] is the underlying cord materials are stronger [able to resist the tread block squirm better] and they have had lots of experience dealing with similar problems on heavy MB500 and 735 - 740/750 BMW/Audi A8 for 15 years.
Many plus sizes don't meet the OEM load rating [because the volume of air is diminished]. X volume of air at 44 psi supports 1521 pounds [95 rating] if you go to an 18,19,20 the width must be so wide that they won't fit. Lower than OEM load index has a dramatic downward effect on tire life.
I just installed my 19's with 1" drop. What tips can I give my mechanic as to camber adjustment. Your saying we should be getting Michelin's?
12-26-01, 07:35 AM
#58
Lexus Champion
Originally posted by enginyr
Does this mean we should be replacing our bushings?
Does this mean we should be replacing our bushings?
I kept my Factory bushings installed with the LTuned Susp because conventional wisdom dictated that the Factory bushings were quieter. Not placing fault, just a statement
Perhaps the LTuned bushings are firmer and provide the support needed to properly hold the tuning specs to prevent inside wear?
I know, I know; this has happened on stock and LTuned; just thinking that the busings may be a larger culprit....
12-26-01, 05:36 PM
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loplap
busings would not make a difference in alignment. You could take them out and nothing would occur except a very hard jolt if you happen to bottom out. THey are only there to cushion a bottom out condition. I have always used factory bushings on all of my cars when lowering. The aftermarket bushings are universal. They put the same bushings in a Viper kit as they do a Honda kit.
I will post a copy of the front end TSB next week when im ready to tackle this issue. It involves removing the steering rack so some labor is present.
I will post a copy of the front end TSB next week when im ready to tackle this issue. It involves removing the steering rack so some labor is present.
01-02-02, 03:31 PM
#60
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PICTURE EVIDENCE - ANOTHER STORY
OK Guys – here’s some documented evidence for you.
I took off my fronts last night because I could feel the nylon and metal with my bare hands.
Background:
Bought the car stock with new Dunlops in July
Had LTuned Suspension installed about 2 months ago
Have logged just over 10k mi since July (purchase)
The car always tracked fine, so never worried about alignment; never considered it.
At my TRD Sway install, the Service Rep stated, ‘you really need to get 4 new tires, soon’ – I told him ‘yeah, got an appt next weekend’ without much thought since they always try to sell you something.
Got home that afternoon and realized how bad it really was. The thing is, you couldn’t tell from looking straight on, or even at and angle since it was so far on the inside…..
So, just a piece of advice, no matter what form your GS takes, modded or not, get it checked by a reputable alignment shop if you haven't recently - tires are nothing to take a chance over, especially if you drice at elevated speeds and agression levels like most of us do.
Not sure what course of action I’m going to take with the dealerships. Neither mentioned anything at my 40k or 45k services. Not passing the buck; I know the car’s service is my responsibility, but due diligence on the part of the dealerships should have spotted this and warned me.
Yeah; that's metal you see on the left picture and nylon on the others.
Just be on your toes out there with your services.
I took off my fronts last night because I could feel the nylon and metal with my bare hands.
Background:
Bought the car stock with new Dunlops in July
Had LTuned Suspension installed about 2 months ago
Have logged just over 10k mi since July (purchase)
The car always tracked fine, so never worried about alignment; never considered it.
At my TRD Sway install, the Service Rep stated, ‘you really need to get 4 new tires, soon’ – I told him ‘yeah, got an appt next weekend’ without much thought since they always try to sell you something.
Got home that afternoon and realized how bad it really was. The thing is, you couldn’t tell from looking straight on, or even at and angle since it was so far on the inside…..
So, just a piece of advice, no matter what form your GS takes, modded or not, get it checked by a reputable alignment shop if you haven't recently - tires are nothing to take a chance over, especially if you drice at elevated speeds and agression levels like most of us do.
Not sure what course of action I’m going to take with the dealerships. Neither mentioned anything at my 40k or 45k services. Not passing the buck; I know the car’s service is my responsibility, but due diligence on the part of the dealerships should have spotted this and warned me.
Yeah; that's metal you see on the left picture and nylon on the others.
Just be on your toes out there with your services.