GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

I broke a lug off my front hub...dayum!

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Old 11-07-06, 01:02 AM
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JeffTsai
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Guys go invest in a torque wrench. It's only about $25-30 for the click type at autozone, oreilys, or even walmart. I used to hand tighten the bolts with a breaker bar as well...good thing nothing bad happened to me during that time. A cheap torque wrench is ok if you only use it "occasionally" since most of them are light duty. It will give you peace of mind that everything is at the right tightness/spec
Old 11-07-06, 06:10 AM
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GSV8
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Hey thanks for jumping on this gents. I feel better now. I guess I was applying to much pressure. I am only 165 lbs and thought I was applying less the half my weight in pressure. LOL...but yes I was using a 2 foot long breaker bar over the ratchet giving it even more torque than I am accounting for. I did not know you could replace the lugs individually....phew!!
Time to invest in a torque-wrench and....don't rotate my tires after returning from the gym!!

Thanks again,
Gerard
Old 11-07-06, 12:29 PM
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I got mine from Wally World it was around that price. It was the heavy duty one though.
Old 11-07-06, 12:58 PM
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GSteg
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I got the Craftsman digitork wrench (3/8") at sears for $80 (reg. $110). Works great, although its limited to only 80ftlbs
Old 11-07-06, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by GSteg
I got the Craftsman digitork wrench (3/8") at sears for $80 (reg. $110). Works great, although its limited to only 80ftlbs
I'm going to have to get that soon. The one I have is a 1/2" wrench.

I just got my back from Kauffman Tire. I needed two studs and two lug nuts and the whole thing cost me $62 and change. No scratches on my wheels and everything is okay.
Old 11-07-06, 02:19 PM
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In the future, if this happens to anyone else, All u gotta do is beat out the stud with a hammer. Take it to the autopart's store, and have them match it up. Turn the position of the hub (place where the other bolts are at) so u can slip the stud in from behind. Next put on one nut on the oposite side of the new stud and thread it tight. Now put the nut on the new stud and tighten it down, Be sure to get it tight enough to get it flush with other studs. Take bolth nuts off, slip on the tire, tighten everything up and go peal out or something. Each stud costs no more than $3.00. Total work time for actual labor is 10min.
Old 11-07-06, 03:46 PM
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chuckb
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I got a tire rack torque wrench for about $30 and it's works nice. and yeah, 76lbs doesn't feel like much when you have a 20 inch long wrench.

http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/tools/tw605.jsp

http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/tools/pw1.jsp

http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/tools/sockets.jsp

Last edited by chuckb; 11-07-06 at 03:52 PM.
Old 11-07-06, 04:52 PM
  #23  
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I've changed out the studs on a gs4 before and its not difficult at all. Took about 30 mins and simple hand tools.

If anyone is interested in doing it themselves, I could do a small write up, no pictures though.

The front ones are super easy. Its the studs in the rear that I'd actually take to a shop to do.
Old 11-07-06, 05:57 PM
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That's the exact one that I just bought. My studs were on the rear wheels. Next time I will definetly try it if it's on the front. Thanks for the instructions .
Old 11-08-06, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by blaise
In the future, if this happens to anyone else, All u gotta do is beat out the stud with a hammer. Take it to the autopart's store, and have them match it up. Turn the position of the hub (place where the other bolts are at) so u can slip the stud in from behind. Next put on one nut on the oposite side of the new stud and thread it tight. Now put the nut on the new stud and tighten it down, Be sure to get it tight enough to get it flush with other studs. Take bolth nuts off, slip on the tire, tighten everything up and go peal out or something. Each stud costs no more than $3.00. Total work time for actual labor is 10min.
Thanks Blaise- it was as easy as you said. The tapping out of the old lug took 2-3 good wacks with a large punch and heavy hammer. Feeding in the new lug behind the rotor is a little tricky but once you get it in your fingers right you can reach the hole. Then pulling in the new lug by screwing on the nut takes a little creativity to get the wheel to hold still to apply enough pressure. I found it pulls in enough by applying a larger wooden dowel acrossed the lugs to lock it in place while I tightened down the nut on the new lug. I felt confident to then put the wheel back on and lower it mostly to the ground to tighten it fully to 75 ft/lbs. With jacking up the car, taking the wheel off, doing the job and then putting the wheel back on took me about 20-25 minutes. Anyone can do the front ones. As for the back, folks have said they would take it to a shop. I will cross that bridge if it presents itself. Oh and yes the lugs were inexpensive. $2.19 at Pep boys, jack stands rated at 2-tons were $15 and a torque wrench with 150 ft/lbs was $19- no handy case though.

Thanks again for the help~
G
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