DRL question
01-13-07, 12:52 AM
#2
You can unplug the DRL connector (right ontop of drivers front wheel hump)... but you will get the highbeam indicator when your lights are not on. To get rid of the highbeam indicator, follow this guide.
Here is how to do it, credit goes to wwest.
Here is how to do it, credit goes to wwest.
First, let me express my reluctance in advising anyone on how to disable DRLs since I sincerely feel they contribute some level of additional safety factor for all of us.
In this case I put that in balance with the fact that the Lexus DRL circuit will undoubtedly cause premature failure of the high beam bulbs, creating something of hazardous circumstance of itsself.
I would also like to state that these instructions only apply, for certain, to the MY2000 GS300.
Go to the relay/fuse block/panel mounted just forward of the battery and remove the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 2" , the fuse closest to the starter relay. Now fabricate and use a wire jumper to connect the low, load, side of this fuse socket to the low, load, side of the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 1", the third fuse "slot" from the starter relay. In both cases the low, load, side is the one toward the front of the car.
I used Radio Shack automotive blade type fuse taps, #270-1204, to bridge, connect, into the low side of the now unoccupied drl #2 position, and a modified fuse tap to connect, alongside the fuse itsself, to the low side of drl #1 fuse. This particular fuse tap is too thick to fit into the socket along with the fuse "prong".
You might want to check the current condition of your high beam bulbs when you do this and replace them if there appears to be a substantial level of "soot" on the interior of the glass encapsulation. At about 10k miles on my RX300 the glass encapsulation was actually showing signs of the glass melting just above the filament due to long periods of operation at sub-specification DRL voltages (less than 6 Volts).
In this case I put that in balance with the fact that the Lexus DRL circuit will undoubtedly cause premature failure of the high beam bulbs, creating something of hazardous circumstance of itsself.
I would also like to state that these instructions only apply, for certain, to the MY2000 GS300.
Go to the relay/fuse block/panel mounted just forward of the battery and remove the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 2" , the fuse closest to the starter relay. Now fabricate and use a wire jumper to connect the low, load, side of this fuse socket to the low, load, side of the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 1", the third fuse "slot" from the starter relay. In both cases the low, load, side is the one toward the front of the car.
I used Radio Shack automotive blade type fuse taps, #270-1204, to bridge, connect, into the low side of the now unoccupied drl #2 position, and a modified fuse tap to connect, alongside the fuse itsself, to the low side of drl #1 fuse. This particular fuse tap is too thick to fit into the socket along with the fuse "prong".
You might want to check the current condition of your high beam bulbs when you do this and replace them if there appears to be a substantial level of "soot" on the interior of the glass encapsulation. At about 10k miles on my RX300 the glass encapsulation was actually showing signs of the glass melting just above the filament due to long periods of operation at sub-specification DRL voltages (less than 6 Volts).
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