RTIS250

iTrader: (9)

Oh... my... god... I truely didnt think they were as bad as they were. Ive been noticing a clunk on acceleration since i bought the car (with 152k miles on it).. the car now has 164k, and after doing a bunch of other work, i finally got around to doing the engine mounts. Well.. they were completely seperated.. both sides.. it was insane.. Anyway.. they are now replaced. And i even put on a set of TCSportline front and rear strut tower braces... the car is runnin much better now

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

congrats. Mine felt great after I changed my mounts. I can't even hear/feel the engine while at a stoplight!

twin lex

iTrader: (2)

How much are the mounts?

RTIS250

iTrader: (9)

Not sure what retail is on the mounts.. i work for a dealer, so i got them at cost. Its a wise investment though... im so glad i replaced them..

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

they're about $120 a piece retail.

I got mine for about $90 each

RMMGS4

iTrader: (5)

Ryan,
can you recommend a milage interval of when changing mounts should be considered?

HAWAI'I

engine mounts.. do they sell different kind of engine mounts, poly or hardened? what works best, OEM or something else?

chuckb

my were starting to go bad at 37k. I got them done earlier this year under drivetrain warranty.

narfy

i had my engine mounts done at 102,000kms (60,000miles) and mine weren't badly separated, but it fixed some of the vibrations i had at idle

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

From what i've see, we only have OEM rubber as a replacement. No one makes polyurethane bushings. Even if they did, less than 15% of the GS population would ever need those kind of mounts. OEM will do fine for most people. If you want polyurethane mounts, you gotta custom make them. Not exactly easy if you have ever seen our mounts.

RTIS250

iTrader: (9)

I would say that they should be inspected at 60k. Before then.. its not really necessary, however, there are always special cases. Mine were in there for 164k miles.. and they were completely obliterated (and probably were for about 15k miles). Personally, being the type of guy i am, if they were showing signs of failure or not, i would change them at 100k, along with the trans mount.

RMMGS4

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Ryan

The reason I ask is because this could be a contributing factor to the cracked S & S headers that many are experiencing.

It would be good to know the mileage people have, who experienced cracked headers.

It would be interesting to do a pareto chart of milage versus cracked headers. I would think we would see a higher incident of cracked headers among cars with higher milage.

I'll have to check in with your co-worker and fellow CL member TAMR_GUS98 so that he can chime this into this on his cracked header thread.

sbgs400

RTGS400 did you have idle vibration problems before changing them? has anyone paid recently to do this? curious as to what the labor rates are like.

RTIS250

iTrader: (9)

Engine noise was significantly reduced by replacing the mounts.. i didnt have a vibration at idle though. I did, however, have a vibration while driving. The car is much much smoother now, acceleration is better, and there is a lot less noise. Im very happy i finally replaced them...

Something to keep in mind for you guys out there, there is no "safety" in the engine mount.. meaning.. if it seperates completely, there is literally nothing holding the engine in the car. Some mounts have an internal metal contraption that will keep the engine help down in the event the rubber breaks.. not in the GS mounts... So keep an eye out.

To check them.. pop your hood and do the old hold the brakes and hit the gas in drive. This is to be done under extreme caution though. Nothing in front of the car, etc, etc... Your engine will try to torque over.. a little movement is normal, mine jumped up a few inches.. not good.. haha..

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

I got a shop to change my mounts for $200 based on $50/hr and 4 hours of labor.

I paid $400 total for parts and labor. I have no regrets whatsoever.