chuckb

could've been a bad connection at battery terminal. did you make sure they are nice and tight?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Yes you should be fine with thier battery. In fact, I picked up the Duralast gold.

There are lots of brands out there, but they there are only a few manufactors out there that actually makes the batteries. Chances are, most of them are relabeled

Some optima has been known to not be able to recharge about being discharged to deep cycle. Then again, no car battery can sustain that kind of deep cycle continuously.

OEM battery is relabeled also. You're paying a lot for the "OEM" name

chuckb

oem batteries from dealer are interstate around here. I got one free under warranty a few days before my warranty ran out.

Billh2

You did clean the battery terminals, didn't you? By cleaning them, I mean removing them and using a brush made for the purpose. Also, check the ground terminal and be sure to check the end that bolts either to the block or frame. You would be amazed how many starters and batteries have been sold when chasing this problem.

Vlad_Stein

There are 2 indicators of battery capacity that I know of:

• Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) - a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. The rating is the number of amps a new, fully charged battery can deliver at 0° Farenheit for 30 seconds, while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts, for a 12 volt battery. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery.
• Reserve Capacity (RC) - BCI defines it as "the number of minutes a new, fully-charged battery at 80ºF (27ºC) can be discharged at 25 amps and maintain a voltage equal to or higher than 1.75 volts per cell" (ie, 10.5 volts for a 12-volt battery). This rating represents the time the battery will continue to operate essential accessories in the event of a charging system failure.

As you can see, if you live in the cold climate, you might be more interested in the first rating more, and vice versa, if you live in the warm climate.
Just make sure that the new battery specs are close to OEM. If they are slightly lower, the battery should be on the less expensive side and you should expect to change it more frequently. If they are higher, the battery may be more expensive, but should come with a longer warranty.

BLACKOUT4

Nice, it worked Are you going for the new battery? If that's the case and the cause, I may have look into getting one for my Wifes (my x car) IS300....

Dx3

iTrader: (13)

I use Optima Red's in all my cars and they are awesome. Doesn't matter what temp it is, if I left the interior light on, or anything else - starts right up

Jonny

Och

iTrader: (3)

Just bought an installed Duralast gold in Autozone. Seems to work fine, and it was half the price of the Optima batteries. The original battery was Douglass.

Vic Nyce

iTrader: (2)

i second this. just today, i disconnected my battery to reset the ecu. when i reconnected it nice and tight and the car wouldnt start. i asked my friend for a jump and of course it started fine. while driving, the radio would cut out, and on one instance, the headlights flickered. i got home, tried to restart the car and just as i expected, the same thing happened. i ran inside and made a baking soda/hot water solution and cleaned the little bit of corrosion on the posts. hoping for the best, i reconnected the cables and started her up. to my delight, she fired right up

lex4

Hi!

Has anybody tried changing the starter themselves, if so, how difficult is it.
Mine is a GS400.
Thanks in advance

Alex

sockfocks

iTrader: (1)

yeah, ok....lol