SRT Intake/Torque Converter Q's .....
12-07-01, 04:50 AM
#1
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Location: Michigan
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SRT Intake/Torque Converter Q's .....
Well, thanx to you guys and all of your advice, I think that I'm going to do the SRT intake/ECU.. its gotten some pretty good reviews from all of you and I think its a good way to get some power. BUT.. one thing i would hate is ANY hesitation when I slam the accelerator. so, i'm assuming the TC will do it. But I'm not as tech term savvy and i have some q's.
Whats the numbers 2800 and 2400 and all that mean?
Whats the Cost?
From where do i get it?
What effects will the SRT have (negative effects, emissions, low end power, fuel economy upper end power, other)
What effects will the car have when both the SRT AND the TV are installed? (Negative effects, emissions, power high end, and low end, speed high and low fuel economy etc.)
I know that this is alot, but i dont want to make any mistakes.. besides, who else would i ask? The people who sell this stuff to me?
Midnite
Whats the numbers 2800 and 2400 and all that mean?
Whats the Cost?
From where do i get it?
What effects will the SRT have (negative effects, emissions, low end power, fuel economy upper end power, other)
What effects will the car have when both the SRT AND the TV are installed? (Negative effects, emissions, power high end, and low end, speed high and low fuel economy etc.)
I know that this is alot, but i dont want to make any mistakes.. besides, who else would i ask? The people who sell this stuff to me?
Midnite
12-07-01, 05:26 AM
#2
Lexus Champion
ML, your primary source of info can be SRT. Call them and they will answer all your questions.
Secondly, we here can help answer your questions, and seveal have been answered time and time again, so hit the archives my friend.
I will re-relay my experiences as well, but later. You can see all my posts by hitting that button at the bottom of my post, and from the subjects of the threads, you'll be able to select the ones about SRT. I'll give you a change to research the archives first
- a ton of useful info in there.
I'd recommend going to the beginning of the Transmission Section, and reading any post that sounds interesting to you. I did this, and it washelpful, and learned a lot more than I was originally curious about. More often than not, the threads will also divulge other aspects of information as the thread changes direction from the original post.
HTH
Secondly, we here can help answer your questions, and seveal have been answered time and time again, so hit the archives my friend.
I will re-relay my experiences as well, but later. You can see all my posts by hitting that button at the bottom of my post, and from the subjects of the threads, you'll be able to select the ones about SRT. I'll give you a change to research the archives first
- a ton of useful info in there.I'd recommend going to the beginning of the Transmission Section, and reading any post that sounds interesting to you. I did this, and it washelpful, and learned a lot more than I was originally curious about. More often than not, the threads will also divulge other aspects of information as the thread changes direction from the original post.
HTH
12-07-01, 07:16 AM
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Quick Answers
Midnite - Follow Dex's lead to the archives for in-depth answers but here's some quick ones:
1) Those R the stall speeds of the T/C's. 2800 rpms is for the
naturally aspirated cars & 2400 rpms works better for those
with forced induction ( supercharger ).
2) Last time I looked it was close to $875 uninstalled.
3) Best price might be from Summit Racing or Swift Racing. Both
are made by Pecision Industries so U'll get the same T/C from
either place.
4) HFI increases midrange & top end power at the SLIGHT
expense of low end power. No emissions or MPG problems -
well, mileage will go down because U'll keep your foot in it!!
5) The T/C & HFI is a perfect combo as the T/C will get ya off the
line ( up to the stall speed mentioned above ) & then the intake
kicks in to take U to redline. I lost about 1 mpg on the freeway
because of the "looser" convertor & DON'T WANT TO KNOW
ABOUT IN TOWN!! Heavy foot, ya know!!
:eek:
1) Those R the stall speeds of the T/C's. 2800 rpms is for the
naturally aspirated cars & 2400 rpms works better for those
with forced induction ( supercharger ).
2) Last time I looked it was close to $875 uninstalled.
3) Best price might be from Summit Racing or Swift Racing. Both
are made by Pecision Industries so U'll get the same T/C from
either place.
4) HFI increases midrange & top end power at the SLIGHT
expense of low end power. No emissions or MPG problems -
well, mileage will go down because U'll keep your foot in it!!
5) The T/C & HFI is a perfect combo as the T/C will get ya off the
line ( up to the stall speed mentioned above ) & then the intake
kicks in to take U to redline. I lost about 1 mpg on the freeway
because of the "looser" convertor & DON'T WANT TO KNOW
ABOUT IN TOWN!! Heavy foot, ya know!!
:eek:
Already replaced throttle body, transmission solenoid and other parts. 
12-07-01, 04:56 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Both Wei and I had the engine check light on the 10000 miles after installation. It happened at the same time. Interesting eh?
Right now I'm driving my car with engine check light on. However, it hasn't affected the performance nor the mpg. So I just try to ignore that yellow light.
Right now I'm driving my car with engine check light on. However, it hasn't affected the performance nor the mpg. So I just try to ignore that yellow light.
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