Hi Krista, thanks for the tips!
I may just end up buying one myself as I frequently want to use the camcorder in the car.

What is the main reason behind using the synthetic brake fluid? Does the stock fluid get too hot and break down?

I don't have the stock brakes or pads on my car. I have a StopTech BBK setup in the front with Axxis Metal master pads. On the rear are the stock brakes and pads but drilled rotors.

Interesting point.... hmmmmm....

 

Hameed - didn't realize that you had a BBK but you will still want to make sure that you have plenty of pad left and that your rotors are in good shape. I would highly recommend that you at least bleed your brakes. Just bleeding them, which will require at least some fluid replacement, will help sustain your braking throughout the day. I would (and do) use ATE Super Blue though you could use 'stock' fluid.

The primary reason for going with the better fluids is the higher boiling point. Brake fluid absorbs moisture very quickly and all brake systems have some, hopefully small, amounts of water from condensation, etc. It will absorb moisture through plastic containers so don't store too long. The better fluids will come in metal containers for this reason and can be stored before use. The water in the system decreases the boiling points of brake fluids, all of them, though some absorb moisture more quickly than others.

Through use, especially the heavy braking of track use, the temperatures of all braking components are increased and their effectiveness decreased: pads will glaze and not 'grab' the rotor while rotors will hit max heat absorption, warp, decrease contact with pads, and transfer more heat throughout the system. High heat is bad. The point of BBKs is to increase the heat capacity of the system - keep the system working at higher temperatures + look way cooler.

In the fluid, the increasing temperatures will cause the fluid to boil. Remember boil = fluid turning to vapor. Vapor does not move pistons (at least not at brake system pressures) especially caliper pistons. The result is a brake pedal on the floor and a car that continues hurtling forward.


Fluid ------------------------DRY--WET BOILING POINT

• Castrol LMA DOT 3/4---------446--311
• Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3-------550--290
• ATE Super Blue Racing--------536--392
• ATE TYP 200-----------------536--392
• Motul Racing 600-------------585--421
• Castrol SRF-------------------590--518
• Performance Friction----------550--284

The ATE is about $15/liter but can be found for less while the Castrol SRF can exceed $80/liter - both come in metal cans. The Castrol is also silicon based and would require a cha. The Motul is also pricey ($20?) but absorbs moisture more quickly than the ATE or Castrol and so needs to be changed more often; comes in plastic containers.

I think the best bang for the buck is the ATE and it is widely used at the track for this reason. For racers with money, they will use the Motul and change more frequently or the Castrol. A full fluid change usually takes 3 cans but once you have made the switch, future bleeding will usually take less than 1.

Hope this helps & wasnt too long winded

 

Thanks very much for the detailed and very informative write up! It was not long winded at all!

Now I need to schedule this brake fluid change on top of the other maintenance items already scheduled for the same day in the morning (June 9th)!

Getting the following done that morning:
- Timing Belt change
- Water pump replaced
- Radiator fluid flush
- Tranny cooler install
- Engine oil change
- Replace wheel studs
- install hood pins on Carbon hood

Not sure if Desmond will have time to bleed the brakes, so may have to reschedule my track time till another day that the group on http://my.is/forums/f122/june-9th-4t...8-00pm-330960/ organizes another track day.

 

Ask Desmond if he could take care of it otherwise you might want to consider doing it yourself. Should take 30mins and a beer for someone else to help - less for a 'pro'. Barring that, however, if the rest of your brake system is in good order I'd hate to say miss a track day because your brakes weren't bled. Odds are that your run sessions out on track won't be longer than 30mins and while you will probably feel brake fade by the end of the session, they won't suddenly stop working. As the fluid's temperature increases, your pedal will travel further and further in order to slow the car. This is your cue that your brakes are fading and a cool down lap or pit stop is in order. Once they cool down, your braking efficiency will return.

Didn't mean to alarm but want you to have fun and enjoy the whole day. Brakes fade - just remember to use them sparingly, with authority when needed, and you can postpone that fade

 

just buy a miata.











seriously though, the track will be real hard on all your bushings and the motor mounts. they may not be the same after.

 

Not alarmed at all.

As a matter of fact you are right about the sessions being short. That seems to be the plan as mentioned on the original thread for the track day.

 

You gotta pay to play bud!

 

Hameed, I would contact GSoup about the studs since he's ordered and using a set now.

 

To answer your question Hameed, Yes. I have them on my car.

 

Thanks! Ordered them yesterday!

 

1. Get lots of rest. This **** is no joke, I was exhausted after my day at the track.
2. Lots of fluids for you.
3. Make sure you have a nice jack, usually someone has one though...
4. Make sure your car is in good running condition, ala, when we go to the Dragon ...all fluids ready to go...
5. Leave VSC on most of the time your first time, so if you lose it, the car's electronics will help you out.

We went out in 15 min sessions, at lil Talledega I topped out right around 100mph at the longest straight. I experienced severe fade at the end of the day. Your bbk will be BEAUTIFUL for you.

6. Take everyone out your car, nothing that can fly around the inside or the trunk.
7. Helmet...yu got a big *** head though (j/k dude)
8. Have fun fun fun!!

 

After reading this thread i was wondering what my car can do so i was racing on a touge near me. was keeping up with a 300zxTT and a Sub 2.5rs car shocked me and i ran faster with the GS then my S13. Def track car wearthy lol (how ever you spell it)

 

Thanks Mike! Tips noted!

 

Oh and biiiig tip, this is how I was overtaking Miata's

Brake BEFORE the turn, not in the turn. Braking in the turn=trouble....this is not like driving in traffic, you want to shoot out the corner...also you enter the apex's opposite as in traffic...it's odd at first but you will get the hang of it....

 

While heavily modified, Team Lexus had much success with their first car, a GS 400.