Pictures: GS400 timing belt parts and part #'s. How-to soon.
#91
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"I tried this part number in Carson's and Sewell's,
Crank seal - 90311-A0001 - $7. I got nothing. I couldn't even see it offered by searching for the crankshaft and parts. Anyone know why it's not coming up?"
Scratch that-I called Carson and talked to Gordan. I told him I found out about them through this forum-he cut me a great deal on parts! $276.xx shipped for the parts I needed! Online, it would have been closer to $320.00 without talking to him.
Gordan is awesome!
Crank seal - 90311-A0001 - $7. I got nothing. I couldn't even see it offered by searching for the crankshaft and parts. Anyone know why it's not coming up?"
Scratch that-I called Carson and talked to Gordan. I told him I found out about them through this forum-he cut me a great deal on parts! $276.xx shipped for the parts I needed! Online, it would have been closer to $320.00 without talking to him.
Gordan is awesome!
#92
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I should be doing by timing belt and waterpump this weekend. I'll post a pic of my old belt since one never got posted yet. Any other pic's that weren't already covered needed guys?
#93
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There is a quote from SALIMSHAH thats awesome!
"Use the markings on the gears of the valve train, but they can be deceiving. Mark with sharpie or paint for yourself before removing the tensioner."
Won't this solve the whole "set the cam gear to "I" vs the "T" mark" dispute that someone had? It seems to me if I take it off exactly the same spot (via a paint pen marking) it's hard for you to be wrong.
"Use the markings on the gears of the valve train, but they can be deceiving. Mark with sharpie or paint for yourself before removing the tensioner."
Won't this solve the whole "set the cam gear to "I" vs the "T" mark" dispute that someone had? It seems to me if I take it off exactly the same spot (via a paint pen marking) it's hard for you to be wrong.
Last edited by Vincenza V; 09-06-09 at 12:16 PM.
#94
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I finally did it on my 99' GS400. I ended up having to buy another waterpump locally (Carson Lexus in CA, where I bought the first one-doesn't sell their waterpumps with gaskets, unlike the local dealers in FL. I opened the box for it when I was already halfway through the repair, and of course, dealers don't just stock the gaskets only ($15.00) so I HAD to buy the whole kit) $150, just for the $15 gasket, ouch!!!
I have a brand new in box Toyota pump, never mounted (The Lexus dealers ship them stamped and boxed Toyota for obvious reasons) $70.00 plus shipping. All you have to do is buy the gasket yourself.
All in all, a pretty satisfying service that was hard, but went well.
I have a brand new in box Toyota pump, never mounted (The Lexus dealers ship them stamped and boxed Toyota for obvious reasons) $70.00 plus shipping. All you have to do is buy the gasket yourself.
All in all, a pretty satisfying service that was hard, but went well.
#96
[QUOTE=Vincenza V;4834002]I finally did it on my 99' GS400. I ended up having to buy another waterpump locally (Carson Lexus in CA, where I bought the first one-doesn't sell their waterpumps with gaskets, unlike the local dealers in FL. I opened the box for it when I was already halfway through the repair, and of course, dealers don't just stock the gaskets only ($15.00) so I HAD to buy the whole kit) $150, just for the $15 gasket, ouch!!!
i thought i read somewhere.the newest water pump doesnt have a gasket.and you use sealant? i could be wrong though
i thought i read somewhere.the newest water pump doesnt have a gasket.and you use sealant? i could be wrong though
#98
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (4)
The reason why there's the 50* mark on the crank and then the two T marks on the cams is because if you set it at tdc all around, the left camshaft will shoot back 45* due to the nature of a 4-cylinder bank (one of the valve is fully open with the cam lobe pushing down). You don't have to use the T marks to take the timing belt off, but just make sure you move the left cam back to tdc before you set timing. The T mark is there for convenience, but could be confusing to people who have never dealt with such a design.
So in a sense, both JPI and OP are correct with their statements. Just make sure you hand turn the crank pulley a couple of times to fully check the timing.
Last but not least, use common sense. If you're moving the crank and none of the cams are turning, chances are you are off on timing. If it won't turn anymore, don't force it because you will bend a valve.
So in a sense, both JPI and OP are correct with their statements. Just make sure you hand turn the crank pulley a couple of times to fully check the timing.
Last but not least, use common sense. If you're moving the crank and none of the cams are turning, chances are you are off on timing. If it won't turn anymore, don't force it because you will bend a valve.
Last edited by ElitistK; 06-23-10 at 08:14 PM.
#99
This is seriously going to sound stupid to some, but how do you know when it's time to replace the water pump? I know you have to perform maintenance on a vehicle, but I replace when something is broken.. Don't flame!
#100
Instructor
Most people replace the water pump as preventive maintenance.
But you replace the water pump when it starts leaking or making bearing noise.
...doing the 2nd T belt and water pump on the 400 tomorrow. I would like to finish in about 4 hours.
But you replace the water pump when it starts leaking or making bearing noise.
...doing the 2nd T belt and water pump on the 400 tomorrow. I would like to finish in about 4 hours.
#102
Did my second timing belt job today... works great... only pain is that I have a leak around the gasket at the top of the waterpump... Is there anywhere to buy that seal instead of having to make it out of the gasket maker? Its such a PITA and I would rather have it with a legit gasket than a high temp silicone one... Im not talking about the water pump gasket that connects it to the block, but the one at the top that connects to the thermostat housing unit... (I think thats what the part is)
#104
Driver School Candidate
Cam Seals Replacement.
For anyone looking to do cam seals, get a copy of the GS430 FSM and follow the procedure to the letter. It was easier than I expected but time consuming. Time is spent removing the bearing caps because the intake camshaft has to come off. I left the exhaust cam in place but loosened the bolts in the sequence described in the FSM. It took me a day per side. The only extra you need is the 6mm thread bolt about 16-20mm long that I bummed from a Lexus dealership. Don't fasten it all the way in, do it half way as it will scratch the valve cover front valve housing wall, not a big deal though. I'm not the most car smarts guy but I did it together with crankshaft seal, timing belt and water pump change. My seals were not leaking but just as a precautionary measure so I don't have to get in there again. For someone familiar with cars, I would say about 3 hours per side. I have 190k miles on my GS400. My car runs great.
Last edited by gsimba; 09-25-13 at 11:23 PM.
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