Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
#467
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Ok so I bought my 99 GS 300 with one broke off key. I bought replacement keys which work fine without programming even though the dealership assures me they won't... i'm guessing it is due to the aftermarket remote which I didn't receive a remote for. I bought a Lexus key with remote but can't program it because of the double pulse half way through the programming.
This was the situation:
With the car off hitting the lock unlock button caused the front locks to work fine but the back ones would just give a little quiver. This meant we sometimes left the car unlocked accidentally and even set off the alarm when we entered through a back door. When the car was running all 4 worked perfectly lock and unlock. I assumed that this was due to the motors dragging and higher voltage (14 vs 12) with the car on. So I bought the motors and switched them out. BTW Great DIY and thanks to everyone who participated.
Current condition:
Back right door works fine in all aspects.
Back left door works fine when voltage is applied to it manually. Bottom two connectors from the module have continuity when it is locked and are open when it is unlocked (or the reverse I can't remember) as expected. Here is the strange part. If the key is not in the ignition the back left door does not even get a pulse (checked with 12v test light). If the key is at the acc. position the door lock gets the pulse and works properly. I've checked the wires coming into the door computer module and can't seem to find any difference in the power coming in. i.e. the only power wire is hot all the time regardless of the key.
So besides asking for advice (especially if anyone has ever seen this before) I'm also taking a poll.
Should I:
1) investigate wiring
2) investigate body ecu (or whatever they call the board on the door)
3) investigate the aftermarket alarm (which I'm scared to touch for fear my keys will stop working
or
4) sell the car and run. I got the car cheap but have spent several thousand dollars fixing electrical issues so far including ABS / booster, alternator, accelerometer position sensor, and more. Should this be the straw the breaks the camel's back? I need all 4 doors to work since I have 2 kids in car seats and all the doors get used regularly.
Thanks for any advice you can give.
Jon
This was the situation:
With the car off hitting the lock unlock button caused the front locks to work fine but the back ones would just give a little quiver. This meant we sometimes left the car unlocked accidentally and even set off the alarm when we entered through a back door. When the car was running all 4 worked perfectly lock and unlock. I assumed that this was due to the motors dragging and higher voltage (14 vs 12) with the car on. So I bought the motors and switched them out. BTW Great DIY and thanks to everyone who participated.
Current condition:
Back right door works fine in all aspects.
Back left door works fine when voltage is applied to it manually. Bottom two connectors from the module have continuity when it is locked and are open when it is unlocked (or the reverse I can't remember) as expected. Here is the strange part. If the key is not in the ignition the back left door does not even get a pulse (checked with 12v test light). If the key is at the acc. position the door lock gets the pulse and works properly. I've checked the wires coming into the door computer module and can't seem to find any difference in the power coming in. i.e. the only power wire is hot all the time regardless of the key.
So besides asking for advice (especially if anyone has ever seen this before) I'm also taking a poll.
Should I:
1) investigate wiring
2) investigate body ecu (or whatever they call the board on the door)
3) investigate the aftermarket alarm (which I'm scared to touch for fear my keys will stop working
or
4) sell the car and run. I got the car cheap but have spent several thousand dollars fixing electrical issues so far including ABS / booster, alternator, accelerometer position sensor, and more. Should this be the straw the breaks the camel's back? I need all 4 doors to work since I have 2 kids in car seats and all the doors get used regularly.
Thanks for any advice you can give.
Jon
#468
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someone listen to my problems please . when i am in the car i push the power lock button to lock the doors. it seems like the switches are barely twitching. like it doesnt have enough power to lock them. when i use my remote to lock the car from the outside sometimes it locks. sometimes it doesnt. when i go to lock the door manually. just the driver door locks. the rest remain unlocked. is it the motor, actuators, seems like there isnt enough power going to the doors. not sure. please help me.
#470
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someone listen to my problems please . when i am in the car i push the power lock button to lock the doors. it seems like the switches are barely twitching. like it doesnt have enough power to lock them. when i use my remote to lock the car from the outside sometimes it locks. sometimes it doesnt. when i go to lock the door manually. just the driver door locks. the rest remain unlocked. is it the motor, actuators, seems like there isnt enough power going to the doors. not sure. please help me.
Jon
#473
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Spooze, what do you mean actuators? My understanding is the motor is inside the actuator. The actuator is the entire mechanism sold by Lexus for $200+ and of course you have to get the actuator out first then split it as described in the first few pages of this thread. For a mechanic.... it is an easy job. For someone who has not been inside a door before it might be a weekend project. You will need a few tools (like Torx drivers, vise). This thread does tell you everything you need to know and whatever you screw up should be the part that would get replaced if you buy the part from the dealer anyway.
JC
#474
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thanks man. sometimes my door locks open with the remote button sometimes it doesnt. same when i manualy try to lock and unlock with the key in the hold and the power lock button on the inside. so theres an actuator in each door?
#476
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Spooze, what do you mean actuators? My understanding is the motor is inside the actuator. The actuator is the entire mechanism sold by Lexus for $200+ and of course you have to get the actuator out first then split it as described in the first few pages of this thread. For a mechanic.... it is an easy job. For someone who has not been inside a door before it might be a weekend project. You will need a few tools (like Torx drivers, vise). This thread does tell you everything you need to know and whatever you screw up should be the part that would get replaced if you buy the part from the dealer anyway.
JC
part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VqGy7_X9MM
and part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZV4xB0806M
i havent done something like this but if the wire loom/epoxy dont work i will be using this video
#477
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anybody that lives in Socal and have done their doors wanna help with mine? I have the new actuators. I'm located in Fullerton/Bellflower, but can meet up anywhere.
Free dinner at restaurant of your choice.
Free dinner at restaurant of your choice.
#478
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Hey Thanks For the DIY! Saved a bunch. Well theres a shortcut to this and some steps can be avoided i just did my front passenger side and it took about and hour or less. If anyone would like, I can make a video and post it on you tube when i do my driver side door next week (just pm me). Just bought a 2pak motor from a fellow member and waiting for shipping. And also btw a motor gear puller come in very handy.
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And Brian, thanks for posting it.
#479
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yeah u welcome for me posting it....i did all the hard work, all he did was make it....hahaha
nah j/k im fixing to use it. my manual lock works but i want my auto lock so im gonna replace my whole actuator (i broke my cable)
BTW there is a new actuator for a 98-2000 for sale in the classifieds right now
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2ge...san-diego.html
nah j/k im fixing to use it. my manual lock works but i want my auto lock so im gonna replace my whole actuator (i broke my cable)
BTW there is a new actuator for a 98-2000 for sale in the classifieds right now
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2ge...san-diego.html
Last edited by sakataj; 05-11-10 at 10:00 AM.
#480
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yeah u welcome for me posting it....i did all the hard work, all he did was make it....hahaha
nah j/k im fixing to use it. my manual lock works but i want my auto lock so im gonna replace my whole actuator (i broke my cable)
BTW there is a new actuator for a 98-2000 for sale in the classifieds right now
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2ge...san-diego.html
nah j/k im fixing to use it. my manual lock works but i want my auto lock so im gonna replace my whole actuator (i broke my cable)
BTW there is a new actuator for a 98-2000 for sale in the classifieds right now
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2ge...san-diego.html
lol, you answered my question in the edit. Hmmm...$140, and thats not even from the dealer...