O1GS43O

any one have a link for the motors with the same back im just going to swap out the backs. thanks

jonnydclar

Ok so I bought my 99 GS 300 with one broke off key. I bought replacement keys which work fine without programming even though the dealership assures me they won't... i'm guessing it is due to the aftermarket remote which I didn't receive a remote for. I bought a Lexus key with remote but can't program it because of the double pulse half way through the programming.

This was the situation:

With the car off hitting the lock unlock button caused the front locks to work fine but the back ones would just give a little quiver. This meant we sometimes left the car unlocked accidentally and even set off the alarm when we entered through a back door. When the car was running all 4 worked perfectly lock and unlock. I assumed that this was due to the motors dragging and higher voltage (14 vs 12) with the car on. So I bought the motors and switched them out. BTW Great DIY and thanks to everyone who participated.

Current condition:
Back right door works fine in all aspects.
Back left door works fine when voltage is applied to it manually. Bottom two connectors from the module have continuity when it is locked and are open when it is unlocked (or the reverse I can't remember) as expected. Here is the strange part. If the key is not in the ignition the back left door does not even get a pulse (checked with 12v test light). If the key is at the acc. position the door lock gets the pulse and works properly. I've checked the wires coming into the door computer module and can't seem to find any difference in the power coming in. i.e. the only power wire is hot all the time regardless of the key.

So besides asking for advice (especially if anyone has ever seen this before) I'm also taking a poll.
Should I:
1) investigate wiring
2) investigate body ecu (or whatever they call the board on the door)
3) investigate the aftermarket alarm (which I'm scared to touch for fear my keys will stop working
or
4) sell the car and run. I got the car cheap but have spent several thousand dollars fixing electrical issues so far including ABS / booster, alternator, accelerometer position sensor, and more. Should this be the straw the breaks the camel's back? I need all 4 doors to work since I have 2 kids in car seats and all the doors get used regularly.

Thanks for any advice you can give.
Jon

spooze

iTrader: (2)

someone listen to my problems please . when i am in the car i push the power lock button to lock the doors. it seems like the switches are barely twitching. like it doesnt have enough power to lock them. when i use my remote to lock the car from the outside sometimes it locks. sometimes it doesnt. when i go to lock the door manually. just the driver door locks. the rest remain unlocked. is it the motor, actuators, seems like there isnt enough power going to the doors. not sure. please help me.

kching989

Do you have any step and pictures show how to remove the motor?

Thanks in advance

jonnydclar

Hey Spooze. Sounds like what my back locks were doing. Have you tried hitting the button with the key in the ignition? with the car running? My first guess would be the motors but it does seem strange that all of them are out.

Jon

spooze

iTrader: (2)

are the motors a easy fix? easier than the actuators? i only care about the front doors.

kching989

Can you please tell me is this motor parts number same for both( L & R ) side of door?

Thank you

jonnydclar

Yes all 4 motors are the same.


Spooze, what do you mean actuators? My understanding is the motor is inside the actuator. The actuator is the entire mechanism sold by Lexus for $200+ and of course you have to get the actuator out first then split it as described in the first few pages of this thread. For a mechanic.... it is an easy job. For someone who has not been inside a door before it might be a weekend project. You will need a few tools (like Torx drivers, vise). This thread does tell you everything you need to know and whatever you screw up should be the part that would get replaced if you buy the part from the dealer anyway.

JC

spooze

iTrader: (2)

thanks man. sometimes my door locks open with the remote button sometimes it doesnt. same when i manualy try to lock and unlock with the key in the hold and the power lock button on the inside. so theres an actuator in each door?

kching989

jonnydclar.Thank you very much for your quick response. Have a great day.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

well said sir....also if anyone is a visual person here is a fairly good step by step video. i actually watched every second of both of them....

part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VqGy7_X9MM


and part 2


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZV4xB0806M



i havent done something like this but if the wire loom/epoxy dont work i will be using this video

bronx99

anybody that lives in Socal and have done their doors wanna help with mine? I have the new actuators. I'm located in Fullerton/Bellflower, but can meet up anywhere.

Free dinner at restaurant of your choice.

CPMD

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for making the DIY man

And Brian, thanks for posting it.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

yeah u welcome for me posting it....i did all the hard work, all he did was make it....hahaha

nah j/k im fixing to use it. my manual lock works but i want my auto lock so im gonna replace my whole actuator (i broke my cable)

BTW there is a new actuator for a 98-2000 for sale in the classifieds right now

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2ge...san-diego.html

CPMD

iTrader: (2)

How much did the actuator go for?? Man I'm going to have to read all 30 pages of this awesome DIY and watch those youtube vids before I tackle this sometime this year when time frees up.

lol, you answered my question in the edit. Hmmm...$140, and thats not even from the dealer...