Door Lock Acutuators DIY ???
06-20-11, 08:13 PM
#691
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Join Date: May 2011
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I just did my rear locks, and didn't know that there was a spring on the gear. and unwound it. 
If you look at the bottom part of the case, there should be a plastic tab, each end of the spring goes on the opposite direction of the tab. I know that its hard to understand but if you can provide a pic of the case I can show you how. My case is already glued back on.
If you look at the bottom part of the case, there should be a plastic tab, each end of the spring goes on the opposite direction of the tab. I know that its hard to understand but if you can provide a pic of the case I can show you how. My case is already glued back on.
06-26-11, 05:16 PM
#692
Changing these motors out is nowhere near as hard as it seams and the youtube video has more steps than needed I changed out 3 of mine and only takes about 30 minutes a door start to finish. Also I highly recommend you get a r/c type gear puller from a hobby shop
06-26-11, 10:14 PM
#693
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Motor Fixed!
Thanks for the information on this forum.
It helped me get my door lock fixed on our vehicle.
The lock on the door slowly got "lazier" over time. If I locked and unlocked repeatedly, the lock would have less and less actuation.
When I disassembled the door lock, and took out the motor, I drove the motor with a bench/test power supply and the motor would spin, but slow down over the next 5-10 seconds until it would not turn.
Since it was broken, I thought I'd determine "root cause". I pulled the motor apart to look inside.
It looks like the ~10mm x 8mm plate that conducts electricity through to the contacts of the commutator increases in resistance with prolonged use and prevents the windings from burning out. I think that's why the motor ran slower and slower from start to about 10-15 seconds.
But the most interesting thing I found was the root cause. The plastic cap was full of black greasy. it was probably a combination of grease and worn particles. I cleaned everything out with a low viscosity spray, but it still didn't work very well. My guess was that the motor was drawing too much current probably due to the windings being shorted. However the bench supply said otherwise. It didn't read like the motor was shorted. I've seen where debris with grease can cause a low-resistance bridge and it turned out that was true. The crud that was stuck between the commutators was conducting electricity so less current was going through the coils. I used a pin to clean out the crevice between the two commutators and voila, the motor worked 20x better. I then reassembled everything the now the door lock is working. Total cost $0. Total time 3 hours.
These motors are only $6 on ebay so it's probably easiest to just order one before starting the job, but I didn't do that ahead of time and didn't want to wait for one to be shipped to me.
CLEAN THE GAP BETWEEN THE COMMUTATORS WITH A PIN. THAT FIXED IT FOR ME!
It helped me get my door lock fixed on our vehicle.
The lock on the door slowly got "lazier" over time. If I locked and unlocked repeatedly, the lock would have less and less actuation.
When I disassembled the door lock, and took out the motor, I drove the motor with a bench/test power supply and the motor would spin, but slow down over the next 5-10 seconds until it would not turn.
Since it was broken, I thought I'd determine "root cause". I pulled the motor apart to look inside.
It looks like the ~10mm x 8mm plate that conducts electricity through to the contacts of the commutator increases in resistance with prolonged use and prevents the windings from burning out. I think that's why the motor ran slower and slower from start to about 10-15 seconds.
But the most interesting thing I found was the root cause. The plastic cap was full of black greasy. it was probably a combination of grease and worn particles. I cleaned everything out with a low viscosity spray, but it still didn't work very well. My guess was that the motor was drawing too much current probably due to the windings being shorted. However the bench supply said otherwise. It didn't read like the motor was shorted. I've seen where debris with grease can cause a low-resistance bridge and it turned out that was true. The crud that was stuck between the commutators was conducting electricity so less current was going through the coils. I used a pin to clean out the crevice between the two commutators and voila, the motor worked 20x better. I then reassembled everything the now the door lock is working. Total cost $0. Total time 3 hours.
These motors are only $6 on ebay so it's probably easiest to just order one before starting the job, but I didn't do that ahead of time and didn't want to wait for one to be shipped to me.
CLEAN THE GAP BETWEEN THE COMMUTATORS WITH A PIN. THAT FIXED IT FOR ME!
07-02-11, 04:07 PM
#697
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: SC
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Has anyone tackled the "Double Locking/Unlocking"? My Right Rear door locks with the remote, but by the time I walk around the car to check the handle the door is Unlocked. Sitting inside the car I can lock it with the master switch---door locks, then 3 secs later unlocks again...Anyone else run into this?
07-08-11, 09:51 AM
#699
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Did this, Not as hard as you think...
Did the front and rear on the passenger side
FRONTS: EASY
BACKS: Not fun, I did find a tool to help with the rear door handle, its a Box offset wrench 10mm
Once you do this DIY; it becomes easy
803GS4: Your locks are going out... it sounds like your rear door or the one that unlocks itself,
FRONTS: EASY
BACKS: Not fun, I did find a tool to help with the rear door handle, its a Box offset wrench 10mm
Once you do this DIY; it becomes easy
803GS4: Your locks are going out... it sounds like your rear door or the one that unlocks itself,
07-08-11, 11:49 AM
#700
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Join Date: Jun 2011
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Did the front and rear on the passenger side
FRONTS: EASY
BACKS: Not fun, I did find a tool to help with the rear door handle, its a Box offset wrench 10mm
Once you do this DIY; it becomes easy
803GS4: Your locks are going out... it sounds like your rear door or the one that unlocks itself,
FRONTS: EASY
BACKS: Not fun, I did find a tool to help with the rear door handle, its a Box offset wrench 10mm
Once you do this DIY; it becomes easy
803GS4: Your locks are going out... it sounds like your rear door or the one that unlocks itself,
07-15-11, 10:32 PM
#701
Thank you for this write up! save me a few hundred bucks, therea re just some things I want to point out.
1. It is confirmed you do not need to remove the speakers or window
2. When you remove the lower bolt to move the window guild, it does in front of the lock, I forgot and had to try it a few differnt time to get right.
Again thank you for everyone who contributed to this thread, buying the motor and pulley to remove the part of the motor cost less than $20 bucks, i bought a spare motor so it was a tad bit more but well worth it. Also I did this in about 1hr and 15min, 1st time doing this and the hardest part was putting tihngs back together.
TonyN
1. It is confirmed you do not need to remove the speakers or window
2. When you remove the lower bolt to move the window guild, it does in front of the lock, I forgot and had to try it a few differnt time to get right.
Again thank you for everyone who contributed to this thread, buying the motor and pulley to remove the part of the motor cost less than $20 bucks, i bought a spare motor so it was a tad bit more but well worth it. Also I did this in about 1hr and 15min, 1st time doing this and the hardest part was putting tihngs back together.
TonyN
07-16-11, 01:56 PM
#702
Yeah, glad I bought two motors..at first my driver door didn't work, now yesterday driver rear went out. Debating on just ordering two more motors and just banging them all out at once and be done with it...
07-16-11, 09:34 PM
#703
i just recently purchased a 2gs.. and i think im having this problem but im not totally sure. basically, when i unlock the car with the remote, there is no response from the doors. i can hear the machine trying to lock/unlock but all four doors will not lock/unlock. when i am inside the car and try locking/unlocking with lock/unlock button, it does the same thing. i hear the motor trying to work but it doesn't want to lock or unlock.
my remote has batteries so i know this isn't the issue. i'm a newbie so please me out here! thanks!
my remote has batteries so i know this isn't the issue. i'm a newbie so please me out here! thanks!
07-16-11, 11:30 PM
#704
2 things. First it might be your electrical connetion but I doubt it, the other cause is the motor. I would replace re motor in the door that has no lock/unlock function. I just did my front passenger with this dig and the video on youtibe. Works perfect now, no more ghetto door!