GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

GS430 stumbling.. help!?

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Old 06-25-07, 06:03 PM
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deja
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Default GS430 stumbling.. help!?

Hey guys, new to the board. My GS has been practically flawless since it was taken off the lot, however, in the past 10k miles things have taken a dip (car has 68k now). The 60k mile service was preformed (cleaned TB 'supposedly', plugs, transmission fluid, etc).

Issue: Car left a family member stranded, she claims the 'CEL/oil' lit up, and the car started 'pulsating' till she could finally get to the shoulder (go figure). The car turns, but doesn't idle, including giving throttle. The car seems to be choking. It dies immediately after it starts?

The car had to be towed 25 miles home and would hate to re-do. Without any further ado, it would be ideal to get this car minimally RUNNING and serviced (no pun intended). After a bit of research, seems like the TPS is a likely culprit .

I'd appreciate a point in the right direction. As far as value, it seems to vary greatly. As far as ACTUAL value, what would be a fair price to offer the car at (01 GS430, GOLD/TAN, CD CHANGER, HTD seats, 68K MI, CLEAN as a whistle).

thanks in advance guys.

Last edited by deja; 06-25-07 at 06:33 PM.
Old 06-25-07, 06:21 PM
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gsproject
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Check the coils and plugs.
And if it throws a code check it before you send any big money
Old 06-25-07, 06:34 PM
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JeffTsai
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The oil light came on too? If it did, then it's possible that whoever did the work on your car might not of tightened the oil drain bolt all the way and somehow a lot of oil has leaked out. Just a possibility...
Old 06-25-07, 06:40 PM
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deja
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appreciate the response. the idea is to get the car minimally (or atleast doing a bit of cross elimination) to get the car RUNNING. In order to get codes ran, I'd need to get it towed to either a stealer or shop (which then, while simultaneously paying $100 for a tow, and $100 for diagnostic, they would pull pages of codes, then proceed to overcharge/rip me off, which seems the norm for SOFLA).

thanks. any other ideas gentlemen?

PS: car wasn't ran dry, checked oil level and is FINE (recently topped off).



Originally Posted by gsproject
Check the coils and plugs.
And if it throws a code check it before you send any big money
Old 06-25-07, 06:53 PM
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BccGS300
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The oil light came on because the engine stalled and died. Same if you turn the key on with the engine off. You need to see what codes are in the ecu. The TPS [I] could [I] cause the problem...but i doubt it. Those rarely fail. Lot's of reasons the engine could stall, need to see those codes. What part of Fl you in. Maybe I can help.
Old 06-25-07, 06:57 PM
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PRSUIT460
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Could maybe be the mass-air sensor too.
Old 06-25-07, 07:36 PM
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chuckb
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pull the battery wire off for about an hour to reset the ecu. maybe it will be drivable. then go to autozone and they'll read the codes for free.
Old 06-26-07, 12:11 AM
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deja
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thanks for the responses. first thing AM i'll be trying the ECU trick in efforts to reset the codes, but doubt success will follow. the car doesnt idle at all, i may be towing it to a buddies place to diagnose (with scanner).

anyone in sofla that has a scanner to read codes? would appreciate!

thanks.
Old 06-26-07, 06:57 AM
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gsproject
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I have a scanner but located in central florida
Old 06-26-07, 07:04 AM
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Chenzo26
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Originally Posted by gsproject
I have a scanner but located in central florida
I guess that doesn't help much.
Old 06-26-07, 03:47 PM
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deja
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update: pulled the EFI fuse and trickle charged the battery with no luck. at this point, theres no use in offering any additional speculation until codes are pulled. i spoke to my mechanic, and he mentioned the fuel pump is also a likely culprit (gas meter was acting funny a few days prior).

thanks for the help so far guys. anyone with a scanner in the Miami area or a point in the right direction would be compensated for. i appreciate it guys.

-dej
Old 06-26-07, 07:44 PM
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JeffTsai
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Originally Posted by BccGS300
The oil light came on because the engine stalled and died.
Actually in my previous car. I threw a rod and kept driving the car down the road for a bit...yes a bad idea but it was in the winter, I was on the highway, and car was still under warranty lol

The motor was still running on 3 cylinders and leaking out oil while I was at it. Trust me you can have a running engine with the oil light on...it's just not a good idea to


Originally Posted by deja
Thanks for the help so far guys. anyone with a scanner in the Miami area or a point in the right direction would be compensated for. i appreciate it guys.

-dej
Hey, I have a OBD2 scanner that plugs into a laptops USB port I can let you borrow. It involves a bit of 2 way shipping though. You pay me a deposit over paypal, I mail to you and I'll refund you when you ship it back to me. Just a suggestion if you want to try to troubleshoot it yourself. PM me if you want to do that.
Old 06-29-07, 04:56 AM
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deja
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thanks for the replies guys. I pulled the rear seat out, pulled the EFI fuse (then put back in) and started the car (which is started, then died half a second later) but didn't hear the fuel pump make a noise or CLICK the entire time (nor before, during, or after ignition). I also noticed that the fuel guage is FULL, which is totally off.

any ideas? while the car is definitely in dire need to be looked at, i figure a fuel pump will get the car up and running again, then inspected/brought back to factory spec by someone with experience behind these cars.

any sources where to source cheap OE parts, or even someone looking to sell a GS430 fuel pump they swapped?

thanks.
Old 07-01-07, 01:25 PM
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deja
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.. hmm, anyone?
Old 07-01-07, 03:26 PM
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Just to double check. Look at all the connections going to the fuel pump. Make sure none of the wires have worked their way loose. Or just pull out the whole fuel pump assembly and give it a good go-over.


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