Daytime running lights. How to turn off.
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Daytime running lights. How to turn off.
My local Lexus dealer says he can't turn off my daytime running lights, on my 2000 GS4. I unplugged the connector that goes to the running light resistor assembly, and the daytime lights stay off, and the high beams work fine. But nothing is ever that easy, as now the blue high beam indicator light comes on when the headlight switch is in the full off position. Does anybody know how to get the daytime running lights (and the blue high-beam warning light) to stay off?
#3
How do you know if you have DTRL
I have a 98 GS 400 and I am wondering if I have day time running lights? I think the bulbs might be burned out. I would like to have them cause I think they are a good safety feature. My owners manual does not say anything about day time running lights. Any thoughts.
I have looked in the fuse panel from what bananasGS and I have the metal bar in there. Again, any thoughts?
I have looked in the fuse panel from what bananasGS and I have the metal bar in there. Again, any thoughts?
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Hey bmpiazzola - I'm thinking the full-time-on daytime running lights (DRL) started with the 2000 GS. The DRL's use the high beam bulbs, but the system uses a big power resistor on the driver-side fender near the brake master to cut the voltage down. That resistor gets VERY hot when the DRL's have been on for a while. BTW - If I had the full wiring schematic, I'm sure I could figure out a way to get the DRL's off, w/o having the blue light on.
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That trick doesn't work on my car.
Removed the power jumper bar AND the plug to the DRL resistor. Of course the DRL stays off, but I still have the warning light...
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The jumper wire trick from WWEST worked great on my 2000 GS4. No more DRL's, no warning light, and low/high beams work fine. I used a short piece of copper-braid wire (a.k.a. solder-wick) to make the jumper. The solder-wick is thin, flat, and flexible, and fits nicely next to the fuse blade. I placed a dummy (burned out) fuse back in the DRL-2 slot to facilitate holding the jumper wire.
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The jumper wire trick from WWEST worked great on my 2000 GS4. No more DRL's, no warning light, and low/high beams work fine. I used a short piece of copper-braid wire (a.k.a. solder-wick) to make the jumper. The solder-wick is thin, flat, and flexible, and fits nicely next to the fuse blade. I placed a dummy (burned out) fuse back in the DRL-2 slot to facilitate holding the jumper wire.
wait, was this your way of saying thanks for the link? ha.
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