GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

aaaaahhhhhgh!..........stuck rotor!

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Old 10-24-07, 12:47 PM
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dusouth
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Default aaaaahhhhhgh!..........stuck rotor!

ok.........I'm trying to change my front rotors and i can't seem to remove the rotor. I've tried to use a bolt in the hole to push it off and i broke the friggin bolt, now it's stuck in the hole on the spindle............someone plz help!!!
Old 10-24-07, 12:53 PM
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skaiyun
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haha. . good luck though
Old 10-24-07, 12:56 PM
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dusouth
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Originally Posted by skaiyun
haha. . good luck though
useful post only please!
Old 10-24-07, 12:57 PM
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Try hitting it from behind with a rubber mallet?
Old 10-24-07, 12:59 PM
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chuckb
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if you're replacing the rotor and not just getting it turned, take a hammer to it.
Old 10-24-07, 01:08 PM
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Debonair
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Originally Posted by chuckb
if you're replacing the rotor and not just getting it turned, take a hammer to it.
Ditto, Just move around the outside edge until it just starts breaking loose.
Old 10-24-07, 01:27 PM
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GSteg
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Spray lots of lubricant into the hole and everywhere else that has rust around it. Let it sit for awhile and then use the bolt method again. use high-quality bolts if you didn't before. cheaper bolts will break easily.
Old 10-24-07, 01:35 PM
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dusouth
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Originally Posted by GSteg
Spray lots of lubricant into the hole and everywhere else that has rust around it. Let it sit for awhile and then use the bolt method again. use high-quality bolts if you didn't before. cheaper bolts will break easily.
what is a high quality bolt? brands? where to find?

well to late on the passenger side cause to bolt is broken and stuck in there. is there anyway of removing the broken bolt?
Old 10-24-07, 01:53 PM
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The bolt I used was OEM grade that came off of a car. I just happen to have some lying around in the garage. I used the cheaper bolts from local autopart stores and they either break or the thread gets stripped.

You will need a special drill bit to get the old bolt out. At this point, spray lots of lubricant (like wd-40 or PB blaster) on the back of the rotor. Some penetration is better than none. Use a rubber mallet and start smacking the rotor. Dont hit one area too much.
Old 10-24-07, 02:00 PM
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dusouth
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Originally Posted by GSteg
The bolt I used was OEM grade that came off of a car. I just happen to have some lying around in the garage. I used the cheaper bolts from local autopart stores and they either break or the thread gets stripped.

You will need a special drill bit to get the old bolt out. At this point, spray lots of lubricant (like wd-40 or PB blaster) on the back of the rotor. Some penetration is better than none. Use a rubber mallet and start smacking the rotor. Dont hit one area too much.
thanks for the info! i just realized i orderd the ball joints and tire rods and i'm gonna wait to remove rotors when the other parts come in i should have thought about that first.
Old 10-24-07, 02:05 PM
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carbongs
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yup take a rubber mallet to it from the back. pb blaster can be used on your hub too. that is usually where it sticks the most.
Old 10-24-07, 08:36 PM
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marshun
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just changing the front rotors? hammer it around the hub and be sure not to hit the studs. thats it. dont be nice to that thing either. its tough. it'll come loose without much problem
Old 10-25-07, 09:04 AM
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by saying quality bolt, they probably mean a higher grade like a 8.8. They are stronger than other bolts. Even if you just get an automotive bolt, it might not be 8.8. Usually they have the grade on the head of the bolt. PB Blaster is good also with a huge mallet or hammer.
Old 10-25-07, 11:17 AM
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TRD911
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Sledge hammer!!!!!!
Old 10-25-07, 11:24 AM
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are you keeping the rotors? if not, get the heaviest (sledge)hammer you can hold. hit around the edges of the rotor, spinning the hub while hitting it. a small construction hammer won't do it. you need a 5 lb. sledge.
sometimes you really have to HIT it like you mean to. wear soemthing to protect your eyes, small pieces of metal and rust can flake off and end up in your eye. not fun.


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