JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

I don't know why but the freaking crank bolt just won't come off. I've tried everything short of a 2000ftlb impact gun, and this is my last resort. I'm gonna buy a $80 tool that supposedly makes removing that bolt much much easier. It's called a Toyota Crankshaft Pulley Holding Tool. Yes, very creative name I'm sure. Just a very simple piece of metal, not sure why it costs so much but it just does. Basically it gives you two points of leverage. So get two long breaker bars and have two people with one on each end pulling as hard as they can. Reason I considered doing this is because it seems like a few of you guys here doing timing belts are having the same issue as me lol.

Anyways, here's the deal. I'm only going to use this tool once for a very long time. You're probably gonna be in the same situation as well. Timing belt done, and won't ever need it again for the next 90k miles.

Long story short, I propose to do a "tool share". Basically I'm gonna buy the $80 tool, use it and then loan it out for $10. Basically you give me $80 to borrow the tool for a few days(downpayment just incase you snap it in half or "lose it"). You also have to cover shipping both ways. When I get the tool back, I'll send $65 back to you($5 shipping costs on top of the $10 ). You'll probably end up paying $20 total at the end. Much better than spending $80 on a tool that you will use one time

Anyone interested? Mods if this is against the rules just lock/close the thread.

UPDATED:
To use this tool, you will need 2 breaker bars. One will be the one with a socket to the crank bolt. The other breaker bar will need to be a 1/2" drive that goes into that hole on the tool. I'd recommend you get two long steel bars around 4-5 ft each to increase leverage...trust me you will need it lol. You will also need a friend to help you out. Once you have the breaker bars and extension bars on there...pull in opposite directions as hard as you can. It took my friend and I a good 5 minutes of pulling to finally loosen it. Also, don't worry that bolt loosens slowly. It's not going to all of a sudden loosen and send you guys flying across the garage lol.

Here's what the tool looks like:

FlavesLex

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a fair deal Jeff, I have to do my timing belt in about 3500 miles. Depending on how often I use the car it might look like i'll need that tool in Jan./Feb.
Post some pics when you get the tool

newgsman

iTrader: (4)

I haven't done the timing belt on my GS4 yet but I have done them a few times on my old 7M motors. I did a couple of different things. One is to place the ratchet on the crank bolt with a long pipe on ratchet handle, having the pipe resting against the ground. Then hit the start switch (make sure you have the ecu fuse pulled). Car starters usually have a fair bit of torque and can break loose the crank bolt.

A second trick I have also used is to but a long breaker bar (non-ratcheting wrench) on the crank pulley and give it some solid blows with a mini-sledge hammer. This has the same effect as the impact wrench but sometimes you can get a better impact with the sledge. Other times the crank just rotates on you.

Might save you $80...

Regards.

cpone

I have to do my belt this weekend.
if i need this you will be getting a call

What is the Torque specs for the crank bolt that its so damn tight and wont come off?

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

On the 2JZ motor it's on there incredibly tight for some reason. Some of the Supra guys were even having trouble with the starter trick...where you lay the breaker bar on the ground and crank the motor. It was lifting the whole car off the ground! That's how tight that bolt is on there. Some people have reported sucess with 750-1000ft/lb impact guns. Mine is only 400ft/lb and it didn't do a thing. I even tried putting a 5 foot extension on my breaker bar and that didn't do anything either. That bolt is on there GOOD. That's why I'm resorting to buying this $80 tool lol.

nsf0607

Jeff sounds like a plan. I will let you know when the time comes, it's still a few months off. GL with the project and keep us posted.

Thanks

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

i thought this was only a problem for the 300's

j0xxx

damn i didnt realize that bolt was that tight

ElitistK

iTrader: (4)

jeff: i'll probably need it, but i want to try the starter trick first.

Why don't you try this site?
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=2890

a bit cheaper than $80.

ElitistK

iTrader: (4)

239 ft/lbf on supra service manual, 243 ft/lbf on is/gs300 service manual. they're within 3% so i think 240 ft/lbf is a good number. The only problem is that i don't understand why does it have to be so tight - only really old cars have this kind of spec on their suspension parts, and we are talking about a crank bolt that actually rotates in the direction that tightens.

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Actually that's just half the tool. You also need the piece that connects to the actual pulley. It's a 2 piece tool.

I have a feeling that the crank bolt creeps foward very slightly
over the years. Getting tighter and tighter. That's why it's so damn hard to remove it once it's been sitting on there for a while.

ElitistK

iTrader: (4)

do you have a part number or a picture of the 2nd part? maybe etools will have it.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

What gun were you using?

Autozone lends you a tool as long as you leave a deposit. Return the item and they'll fully refund everything. It's cheaper than having to ship the stuff around the states

Euphoric

iTrader: (1)

I had the biggest fiasco trying to get that damn thing off the Supra. I would have sworn my engine builder dipped the bolt in loctite when he put the motor back together. Here is a copy and paste of my ordeal from back in 04' -

Oh, so incase doesn't want to read it - I finally got it off with alot of heat (mapp gas) and 3/4in. breaker and socket (with a cheater bar). SUCKED!!!

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This thing has turned into my nemesis. We are at a loss at what route to take now that we have seemed to exhaust all other routes I have read on this forum at getting this thing off. We started easy at it since all we had was a 3/8" 22mm socket at the time so we broke a 3/8 craftsman drive attempting it with that. Then two 1/2" -> 3/8" adapters using a 1/2 breaker. So I go buy a bigger 1/2 breaker, a 2.5" ft pipe and a 1/2" 22mm craftsman socket and that didn't work. Add heat and try again... nothing (this is attempting it all from the bottom of the car). Wedge the breaker and pipe on the ground, pull EFI fuse and hit the ignition... nothing. Now I pull the radiator and shroud and we go grab a compressor from a friends house and a 1000ft/lb Impact wrench and hit it with that... bolt just laughs at it. We added some heat again and still no go. Now we're frustrated... So at this point we decide to get at it from the top so I pull the upper radiator pipe and TB hard pipe off and the socket, breaker and pipe get put on the bolt. 3 of us push/pull the damn thing and BAM... the socket splits. Run to Sears to swap it for aother one, get back add some heat and try again.... the new socket split just like the last one.

So now we are out of ideas and I am convinced that my engine builder must have caramel coated the damn bolt in loctite when he put it in after the rebuild. Does ANYONE have any other ideas? I was thinking maybe try to get a 3/4 breaker and socket but I can't locate a 22mm 6pt in a 3/4 size.... just a 12pt. Would grinding the head off be feasable? That would release most of the torque and extracting the threaded piece would be easier right? Anything?

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Man, we finally got that ****er off friday night. But not until after we broke the 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar I had just bought for this. So now we were out 2 22mm sockets, 2 adapters, 1 ratchet and the breaker bar. They died giving their best but in the end we had to break out a 3/4" breaker that I had to borrow and a 3/4" SAE equivalent of 22mm... 7/8ths I think it was. We heated up the bolt up again till it was smoking and we push/pulled on the breaker and cheater on last time and BAM... the ***** came loose. I was very suprised to see that there was NO loctite on it. As hard as that damn thing was I would have swarn it was dipped in the ****. What an ordeal... Clutch, rear main, and that bolt. Glad it is finally over

Big thanks to Stoker6 for all of his help and for letting my store my car in his garage throughout this whole process. my boy Tommy Bahn for leaving work to let me borrow his FSM, my buddy Bob and you guys on the forum

Thanks again guys for all the suggestions and ideas to go at this thing!

Sean-

Euphoric

iTrader: (1)

Oh and Jeff, once you said that tool I remembered someone made one that worked for them. Said it cost them $2 in materials, this is the only pics I could find of it though. Might want to try this before dropping coin on the read deal.