GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Trd Lsd 3.25 Vs Rmm Lsd 3.76

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Old 03-04-02, 04:44 AM
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tinygs
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Well, after searching the net a while and using the search on Supraforums this is what I found. From what I can gather, the LSD rear end on the SIX SPEED SupraTT brought to the US has a final drive ratio of 3.13:1(JDM is 3.27:1), and the final drive for the US SupraTT 4/speed auto is 3.769:1(Same as JDM). I am assuming the ladder is the one Steve Ganz was selling and is the same unit RMM sells.
I have found it hard to pin down the specs for the N/A Supra rear end. The N/A 5-speed has a 4.083:1 final drive but I dont know for sure about the Auto....The N/A has optional LSD, it was not standard.....
Old 03-05-02, 01:58 AM
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quocman555
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Which LSD do you have on your car Mean Gene? Thanks...
Old 03-05-02, 02:23 AM
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Mean Gene
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Smile Millen's

Q - I have the RMM differential with the 3.76 gears. I chose to go this route because of my preference of straightline acceleration over cornering capability. Steve ganz was offering the option of just an LSD that I could install & keep the factory 3.23 gears but my drag racing history made me do the gears!!
Old 03-05-02, 11:49 PM
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Hey Mean Gene, would you recommend doing the t/c first or the LSD first and where did you get your dragon t/c. Thanks for your help.
Old 03-06-02, 12:14 AM
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Mean Gene
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Question Depends

Q - That's also a choice that only U can make but here's my input. Once again, if U value cornering over straightline performance then the LSD would be your mod. IMHO, for the money the Dragon T/C is the best bang for your buck. It dropped my 0-60 & quartermile times by an average of .3+ while the addition of the LSD ( even with the steeper 3.76 gears ) only lowered my ET's by .2. For me the cost was equal ( bought the LSD used from Will Kirksena for $800 & that's about what the T/C cost me from SRT ). The SRT price was a package deal which included their intake/ECU plus the Borla mufflers so Mo may have given me a price break there. The installation on the T/C is MUCH more time consuming but still basically a bolt-in procedure. I've seen posts from Members who said that their local shops took anywhere from 2 to 6 hours to do the work ( U can figure in your local shop's hourly labor rate ) because U must remove most of the underbody to drop the tranny. In fact, it took me longer to remove & reinstall those parts than it did to change the T/C & mount the tranny cooler!! :eek: The differential was basically a simple bolt-in operation as well except that it only consisted of removing the wheels & unbolting the axles then exchanging the diff itself. Took me a little more than an hour but I did have the advantage of using my friend's shop ( complete with lift & pneumatic tools ). U could do the diff swap at home with basic hand tools & jack stands but it'd take 2-3 times longer. The tranny work ( which I also did myself at his shop ) might be best left to a transmission shop because they'll have a tranny jack ( wouldn't want to drop the d*** thing!! ). For the best price on the Dragon T/C, check with Mo or call Precision Industries directly ( same T/C - also made for Level 10 by Precision ). www.converter.com
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