Engine flush - a little extreme?
02-20-08, 01:40 AM
#1
Engine flush - a little extreme?
Since I've bought the car last month I've been wanting to do a complete fluid flush etc to get or try to get everything as clean as possible. I had to get an oil change done today, mainly because the previous owner used regular oil and its been 2000 miles since. So it was time I did my flush.
I've used seafoam prior to this with great results so I was used it again. Bought 3 cans (3 pints) and 1 can of sea foam deep creep. 1 in the gas tank, 1/2 of a can to the intake manifold and the other 1/2 into the crank case. Take the intake piece to the throttle body off and spray deep creep into the throttle body and wipe away grime if any. Let it sit and do its work for around 15min or so and then revved it like I stole it and wow there was smoke. Went for a spirited drive and parked the car. After the car had cooled off I poured another 1/2 a can in the crank case, started up the car let it idle till it reached operating temperature and then poured another 1/2 can into the intake and revved it up again. Less smoke but there was still some. So great, didn't hear my motor knocking yet so it was all good. Went for another spirited drive and took it for an oil change. The oil was disgusting
. At this point I put a new cheap filter on and filled the motor with 5.2qts of regular 5w/30 and also added some Amsoil engine flush. Kept the car revved up at 3500rpms for around 20 minutes and with the oil still nice and hot, drained it and let it drip. I even went to the extent of using a suction hose to suck any left over crap. The oil which was filled in 20 minutes prior was dirty so I figured that was a good thing (more dirt out of my motor). Anywhoo.. popped on a new K&N oil filter, filled the moor with some fresh Amsoil high performance, extended life 10w/30 and called it a day.
I used seafoam initially to help start breaking down all the gunk and grime in my motor. I let the car cool before I did the seafoam a second time because at over 100 degrees the seafoam starts to evaporate/burn aay. So with the engine cool and some of the carbon starting to loosen up I put in seafoam in the crankcase and let it idle till it reached operating temperature the second time so it can do its job and give the seafoam more time to break down gunk in the motor. With 103,000 miles on my car I wanted to try to get eveything as clean as I could which would explain the Amsoil engine flush treatment. I've always been a firm believer of Amsoil motor oil. I've used it in my previous turbo car and every 5000 miles when the head would come off for inspection (and a new head-gasket)
the motor never saw gunk build up. Ive seen other oils leaving small areas of build up on other motors that were torn down at the shop. So I went with the Amsoil motor oil.
All in all this was probably the longest oil change I've ever done, took me close to 4 hours for everything. The results I think time will tell mostly. I do see an increase in throttle response, a little more get up and go. I'll report any increase in mileage on my next tank of gas. Will also do a compression test later on. Still have to do a tranny flush, diff flush, power steering flush and a brake luid flush.
. I am a little **** about my car I guess, and preventive maintenance Ive always done on all my cars. Wish me luck guys, and also taking suggestions.
I've used seafoam prior to this with great results so I was used it again. Bought 3 cans (3 pints) and 1 can of sea foam deep creep. 1 in the gas tank, 1/2 of a can to the intake manifold and the other 1/2 into the crank case. Take the intake piece to the throttle body off and spray deep creep into the throttle body and wipe away grime if any. Let it sit and do its work for around 15min or so and then revved it like I stole it and wow there was smoke. Went for a spirited drive and parked the car. After the car had cooled off I poured another 1/2 a can in the crank case, started up the car let it idle till it reached operating temperature and then poured another 1/2 can into the intake and revved it up again. Less smoke but there was still some. So great, didn't hear my motor knocking yet so it was all good. Went for another spirited drive and took it for an oil change. The oil was disgusting
. At this point I put a new cheap filter on and filled the motor with 5.2qts of regular 5w/30 and also added some Amsoil engine flush. Kept the car revved up at 3500rpms for around 20 minutes and with the oil still nice and hot, drained it and let it drip. I even went to the extent of using a suction hose to suck any left over crap. The oil which was filled in 20 minutes prior was dirty so I figured that was a good thing (more dirt out of my motor). Anywhoo.. popped on a new K&N oil filter, filled the moor with some fresh Amsoil high performance, extended life 10w/30 and called it a day.I used seafoam initially to help start breaking down all the gunk and grime in my motor. I let the car cool before I did the seafoam a second time because at over 100 degrees the seafoam starts to evaporate/burn aay. So with the engine cool and some of the carbon starting to loosen up I put in seafoam in the crankcase and let it idle till it reached operating temperature the second time so it can do its job and give the seafoam more time to break down gunk in the motor. With 103,000 miles on my car I wanted to try to get eveything as clean as I could which would explain the Amsoil engine flush treatment. I've always been a firm believer of Amsoil motor oil. I've used it in my previous turbo car and every 5000 miles when the head would come off for inspection (and a new head-gasket)
the motor never saw gunk build up. Ive seen other oils leaving small areas of build up on other motors that were torn down at the shop. So I went with the Amsoil motor oil. All in all this was probably the longest oil change I've ever done, took me close to 4 hours for everything. The results I think time will tell mostly. I do see an increase in throttle response, a little more get up and go. I'll report any increase in mileage on my next tank of gas. Will also do a compression test later on. Still have to do a tranny flush, diff flush, power steering flush and a brake luid flush.
. I am a little **** about my car I guess, and preventive maintenance Ive always done on all my cars. Wish me luck guys, and also taking suggestions.
02-20-08, 02:39 AM
#3
havnt really read about the exhaust gasses clogging up the cat. Would it really matter since you are revving the motor thus pushing the gases out faster? Also with 100,000 miles plus on the motor, dont really know how effective the cat is? Well at this point it'll be too late to cry about spilt milk anyway.
02-20-08, 05:50 AM
#5
Instructor
I agreed with Chuck, your doing more damage to your engine then just changing the oil even if it is "dirty". Your cat is effective through all ranges of RPM. It doesn't matter how fast or slow the mixture is traveling through the exhuast the job of the catylatic converter is to reduce emissions. I have seen sea-foam not only take out cats but o2 sensors as well, good luck with your flush...
02-20-08, 09:16 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
02-20-08, 09:41 AM
#7
The best and least detrimental method of flushing your motor is via the Bilstein machine. The motor flush is accomplished with the car off. I've had this done to my GS along with other members via a few meets I set up in the past. You will notice an improvement in idle, sound, gas mileage, performance and your engine internals will be spotless.
More on this unit here:
More on this unit here:
Step 1
Heated Bilstein R-2000 Engine Flush solution is pumped through the oil filter port at 42 PSI.
Step 2
R-2000 Engine Flush solution flows through the engine's lubrication system dissolving sludge and varnish.
Step 3
R-2000 Engine Flush solution back flushes the oil pump pickup screen. Dissolved sludge, varnish and debris flow to the oil pan where it is vacuum extracted to the BILSTEIN R-2000 Engine Flush Machine. Particulates over 3 microns are removed through three stages of ultra-fine filtration.
Oil Changes Are Not Enough
While oil filters remove particulate over 25 microns, sludge, tar, varnish and wear metals less than 25 microns continue to circulate within the engine and accumulate in the passageways, oil pump and oil pan. These contaminates cause engine wear, higher operating temperatures, and reduced lubrication.
Past Procedures Compound the Problem
Simply pouring chemical flush additives into the crankcase is ineffective. Dissolved sludge, particulate and accumulated debris continue to circulate causing significant engine wear.
Bilstein R-2000™ Engine Flush System
This environmentally safe system thoroughly cleans your engine by using patented adaptors and specially formulated solutions to dissolve accumulations of sludge, tar, varnish and wear metals.
The process is performed with the engine off. Using pulsating pressures, the Bilstein R-2000 circulates a heated petroleum distillate solution through the oil pump passage ways and reservoir to dissolve sludge.
A perfectly clean engine means better performance, superior fuel economy and longer engine life.
Restore Engine Efficiency with Total Safety
The Bilstein R-2000 Engine Flush System will not harm your engine, ring seating, valve guides or seals. All residual oil and cleaning solutions are evacuated leaving a light mineral oil on critical wear surfaces.
Periodic Engine Cleaning Extends Engine Life
Tests have shown that periodic sludge removal restores operational efficiencies and reduces harmful exhaust emissions. By reducing wear metals and corrosive contaminates a longer engine life can be expected.
Bilstein - Quality and Reliability
Over the decades, Bilstein has established a solid reputation for quality and reliability. Bilstein products are marketed worldwide only after extensive research and testing.
Visit Bilstein at www.bilstein.com.
Heated Bilstein R-2000 Engine Flush solution is pumped through the oil filter port at 42 PSI.
Step 2
R-2000 Engine Flush solution flows through the engine's lubrication system dissolving sludge and varnish.
Step 3
R-2000 Engine Flush solution back flushes the oil pump pickup screen. Dissolved sludge, varnish and debris flow to the oil pan where it is vacuum extracted to the BILSTEIN R-2000 Engine Flush Machine. Particulates over 3 microns are removed through three stages of ultra-fine filtration.
Oil Changes Are Not Enough
While oil filters remove particulate over 25 microns, sludge, tar, varnish and wear metals less than 25 microns continue to circulate within the engine and accumulate in the passageways, oil pump and oil pan. These contaminates cause engine wear, higher operating temperatures, and reduced lubrication.
Past Procedures Compound the Problem
Simply pouring chemical flush additives into the crankcase is ineffective. Dissolved sludge, particulate and accumulated debris continue to circulate causing significant engine wear.
Bilstein R-2000™ Engine Flush System
This environmentally safe system thoroughly cleans your engine by using patented adaptors and specially formulated solutions to dissolve accumulations of sludge, tar, varnish and wear metals.
The process is performed with the engine off. Using pulsating pressures, the Bilstein R-2000 circulates a heated petroleum distillate solution through the oil pump passage ways and reservoir to dissolve sludge.
A perfectly clean engine means better performance, superior fuel economy and longer engine life.
Restore Engine Efficiency with Total Safety
The Bilstein R-2000 Engine Flush System will not harm your engine, ring seating, valve guides or seals. All residual oil and cleaning solutions are evacuated leaving a light mineral oil on critical wear surfaces.
Periodic Engine Cleaning Extends Engine Life
Tests have shown that periodic sludge removal restores operational efficiencies and reduces harmful exhaust emissions. By reducing wear metals and corrosive contaminates a longer engine life can be expected.
Bilstein - Quality and Reliability
Over the decades, Bilstein has established a solid reputation for quality and reliability. Bilstein products are marketed worldwide only after extensive research and testing.
Visit Bilstein at www.bilstein.com.
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02-20-08, 08:45 PM
#13
I wouldn't recommend an engine flush to those with high mileage egnines. From what I heard, in the high mileage engines many of the seals are worn, and the only thing that stops them from leaking is the sludge build up. Once all of that slude is dissolved, you start having leaks. I know someone who did an engine flush on his dodge, and the car died two weeks later. There was oil on his intake.
02-20-08, 11:43 PM
#15
True.. I've had a couple of people who had that problem too. Especially when you change from regular to synthetic on high mileage motors. Well so far soo good. I dont see any leaks etc and my oil is clean. Will update on the mileage.
I wouldn't recommend an engine flush to those with high mileage egnines. From what I heard, in the high mileage engines many of the seals are worn, and the only thing that stops them from leaking is the sludge build up. Once all of that slude is dissolved, you start having leaks. I know someone who did an engine flush on his dodge, and the car died two weeks later. There was oil on his intake.