Need to change wheel studs
03-15-08, 12:33 AM
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Need to change wheel studs
I need to change a few bad wheel studs on the back this weekend. Is there anything special that I should know or any information that you guys can give to help me out so I am prepaid when I change the studs this weekend? Any information that would be helpful that would save me time would be really appreciated.
03-15-08, 12:01 PM
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I recommend keeping the lug nuts on the studs that you aren't going to replace. When you hammer out the bad stud and accidentally "nick" a good stud, the threads are protected.
Use a sledge hammer to take out the old studs, not just a regular hammer. This way, you can take out the old stud in one controllable shot.
Putting on new studs:
Use a wirebrush or old tooth brush to clean out all the rust in the hole where the stud is supposed to go.
To put on new studs, get a nut with the same thread size/pitch and "bolt" the stud in with a deep socket wrench. Make sure the splines line up. Use an impact wrench if you have one, otherwise put some muscle into it so that the new stud gets seated as much as possible.
After you are done and have the wheels bolted back on, make sure you torque them to specs. Drive around for about 5-10 minutes, and torque the wheels again. Torque the wheels again in about a week just to make sure.
Use a sledge hammer to take out the old studs, not just a regular hammer. This way, you can take out the old stud in one controllable shot.
Putting on new studs:
Use a wirebrush or old tooth brush to clean out all the rust in the hole where the stud is supposed to go.
To put on new studs, get a nut with the same thread size/pitch and "bolt" the stud in with a deep socket wrench. Make sure the splines line up. Use an impact wrench if you have one, otherwise put some muscle into it so that the new stud gets seated as much as possible.
After you are done and have the wheels bolted back on, make sure you torque them to specs. Drive around for about 5-10 minutes, and torque the wheels again. Torque the wheels again in about a week just to make sure.
Last edited by tnbigdawg; 03-15-08 at 12:04 PM.
03-16-08, 08:24 AM
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I recommend keeping the lug nuts on the studs that you aren't going to replace. When you hammer out the bad stud and accidentally "nick" a good stud, the threads are protected.
Use a sledge hammer to take out the old studs, not just a regular hammer. This way, you can take out the old stud in one controllable shot.
Putting on new studs:
Use a wirebrush or old tooth brush to clean out all the rust in the hole where the stud is supposed to go.
To put on new studs, get a nut with the same thread size/pitch and "bolt" the stud in with a deep socket wrench. Make sure the splines line up. Use an impact wrench if you have one, otherwise put some muscle into it so that the new stud gets seated as much as possible.
After you are done and have the wheels bolted back on, make sure you torque them to specs. Drive around for about 5-10 minutes, and torque the wheels again. Torque the wheels again in about a week just to make sure.
Use a sledge hammer to take out the old studs, not just a regular hammer. This way, you can take out the old stud in one controllable shot.
Putting on new studs:
Use a wirebrush or old tooth brush to clean out all the rust in the hole where the stud is supposed to go.
To put on new studs, get a nut with the same thread size/pitch and "bolt" the stud in with a deep socket wrench. Make sure the splines line up. Use an impact wrench if you have one, otherwise put some muscle into it so that the new stud gets seated as much as possible.
After you are done and have the wheels bolted back on, make sure you torque them to specs. Drive around for about 5-10 minutes, and torque the wheels again. Torque the wheels again in about a week just to make sure.
03-16-08, 08:19 PM
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Wasn't sucessful
Thanks for the info guys!
I still have an issue though. Well I changed 2 of the studs today, but now I have a bigger problem then I did before. There's this spring things now that rubs on the back of the studs when the wheel rotate. See pics below. I tried adjusting it before, but as soon as the wheel start moving, it pops back out. Can somebody help me and tell me what this is and how do I adjust it so that it is not pushed so far out?
What is this?
Notice the clearance between the stud (original stud) and the ebrake thing
This is the furthest I could get the stud pushed without an impact gun.
I still have an issue though. Well I changed 2 of the studs today, but now I have a bigger problem then I did before. There's this spring things now that rubs on the back of the studs when the wheel rotate. See pics below. I tried adjusting it before, but as soon as the wheel start moving, it pops back out. Can somebody help me and tell me what this is and how do I adjust it so that it is not pushed so far out?
What is this?
Notice the clearance between the stud (original stud) and the ebrake thing
This is the furthest I could get the stud pushed without an impact gun.
Last edited by truenoboy; 03-16-08 at 08:22 PM.
03-16-08, 08:47 PM
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Like I said, if you don't have an impact gun then you're gonna have to put some muscle into it. That's the way I did it.
If the nut you are using to install the studs won't go down any further, you may need some sort of thick washer/spacer in between. Get the stud to go in ALL THE WAY, then remove the nut and washer/spacer when you are done. Don't be afraid of tightening the nut too much as you are installing the studs. The threads may stretch a little, but it won't affect the threads being used by the lug nuts when the wheel is on.
As far as that spring assembly goes, that's how it pretty much sits. I don't remember any possibility of if being adjustable.
Goodluck
If the nut you are using to install the studs won't go down any further, you may need some sort of thick washer/spacer in between. Get the stud to go in ALL THE WAY, then remove the nut and washer/spacer when you are done. Don't be afraid of tightening the nut too much as you are installing the studs. The threads may stretch a little, but it won't affect the threads being used by the lug nuts when the wheel is on.
As far as that spring assembly goes, that's how it pretty much sits. I don't remember any possibility of if being adjustable.
Goodluck
03-16-08, 09:44 PM
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Like I said, if you don't have an impact gun then you're gonna have to put some muscle into it. That's the way I did it.
If the nut you are using to install the studs won't go down any further, you may need some sort of thick washer/spacer in between. Get the stud to go in ALL THE WAY, then remove the nut and washer/spacer when you are done. Don't be afraid of tightening the nut too much as you are installing the studs. The threads may stretch a little, but it won't affect the threads being used by the lug nuts when the wheel is on.
As far as that spring assembly goes, that's how it pretty much sits. I don't remember any possibility of if being adjustable.
Goodluck
If the nut you are using to install the studs won't go down any further, you may need some sort of thick washer/spacer in between. Get the stud to go in ALL THE WAY, then remove the nut and washer/spacer when you are done. Don't be afraid of tightening the nut too much as you are installing the studs. The threads may stretch a little, but it won't affect the threads being used by the lug nuts when the wheel is on.
As far as that spring assembly goes, that's how it pretty much sits. I don't remember any possibility of if being adjustable.
Goodluck
Trust me, I put a lot of muscle in it. I weigh 160lbs, which is the weight I put on the nut for each turn by standing on the end of the lug wrench. I tried installing 3 studs today, and believe me, it's possible to over tignten the nut while tyring to pull in the stud as one of the new studs that I was trying to set broke while tightning the bolt.
That spring on the ebrake shoe does not sit that far out on the passanger side as it does on the driver's.
I will try at it again tomorrow.
03-16-08, 10:11 PM
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Uhh you used a lug wrench to install the studs, meaning you're using lug nuts to install the studs??? Not the way to do it unless you are using an open end lug nut, but that won't be possible if you are using a lug wrench (I don't think it would reach down far enough).
If you were using a closed ended lug nut, the nut will stop spinning at some point and you won't be able to get the stud to come through all the way - no matter how hard you turn the wrench (hence is why I think you broke one).
You need some type of open ended nut or lug nut and a deep socket wrench. If it isn't moving any further, remove the stud and clean the hole again. Use some WD-40 as well. Make sure that the stud is coming straight in and not crooked.
Again, I don't remember the spring having any adjustments at all. If it flops around (becoming unseated) with the slightest touch, then it is not correctly on. If it takes a little more pressure in order to move it while the spring maintains pressure, then it is correctly on.
Best of luck to you; I hope you can get it working.
If you were using a closed ended lug nut, the nut will stop spinning at some point and you won't be able to get the stud to come through all the way - no matter how hard you turn the wrench (hence is why I think you broke one).
You need some type of open ended nut or lug nut and a deep socket wrench. If it isn't moving any further, remove the stud and clean the hole again. Use some WD-40 as well. Make sure that the stud is coming straight in and not crooked.
Again, I don't remember the spring having any adjustments at all. If it flops around (becoming unseated) with the slightest touch, then it is not correctly on. If it takes a little more pressure in order to move it while the spring maintains pressure, then it is correctly on.
Best of luck to you; I hope you can get it working.
Last edited by tnbigdawg; 03-16-08 at 10:16 PM.
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