stayblaze

+1

LEXUS_KID

iTrader: (4)

Lucus Oil products work great give them a try

samster

luca's actually gunks up the oil making it thicker. Why not just use higer volocity motor oil? i personally don't like any additives in my motor, gas tank, etc... "If it aint broke don't fix" if you wanna fix it, break it and built it up stronger from ground up! haha. yeah and the cam seals, crank seals etc, they do like to go with additives, and mabe from reg conventional to syntetic oils at high mileage, but then if you would like to use a additive or a seafoam product, i think it might be somthing you could use around the 80k mark if you never replaced your timing belt yet, so you could just seafoam, and then retune up the whole car. Do the timing belt and all the seals, plugs, wires, and all fluids etc.

kit cat

iTrader: (6)

so where does all this crap go...? just sits on the bottom of the oil pan and circulates around the engine till the next oil change?

Lexmex

If you have issues with the piston rings, try this stuff, http://store.interautopartssd.com/mo...00ef2aac35f390

I used it myself on my RX300 when I was back in Mexico and it works REALLY well.

DASHOCKER

iTrader: (2)

I tried that blue goo in my Acura CL back in the day. I saw the commerical for the product thinking that it will make the car run as smooth as silk and increase horsepower. Boy was I wrong. Sure the car idled quieter, but The car felt lethargic during down shift passing and at WOT. This product also creates engine sludge due to its consistency. I had the motor flushed to get this product out of the engine. This product is ideal for a 77 Chevy with oil leaks not a 90's+ automobile.

handzilla

j_version, I've been having a similar issue, and have been contemplating using some type of restorer as well. The only thing is that I am not sure if it's excess sludge or worn rings either. I even went and had a new pcv valve installed, but to no avail.

In doing some research I am under the assumption that the best thing to do is get an engine compression and leak down test to pinpoint the cause of oil loss. If compression shows low then it's the rings and it might be best to use a thicker oil or maybe some restorer to slow oil consumption. If compression is high then it's possibly excess sludge and an engine flush via Billstein process would then be necessary. However some say that the Billstein would cause some of the "good sludge" to disappear which might cause oil leaks that otherwise might not be present and decrease the compression even more.

What do ya guys think?

handzilla

am I right or wrong?

Deception

iTrader: (1)

well what about using the lucas synthetic oil stabilizer? where i work my boss puts in 0w-40 mobile 1 synthetic and he also adds in lucas oil stabilizer to his skyline.. i think lucas products are trustable. what are you opinions if i were to put the stabilizer on a 140k mile engine.

i was also told that if i had conventional oil at the begining of the car till it was like 80k miles and then if you put in synthetic its kinda bad for the car. because the seals are set with the conventional oil.

VAgs430

iTrader: (6)

most of you bash this engine restorer stuff but mine was reccomended by the dealer when i took it in for service? they did the fuel injector service in which they clean out the plugs and add the restorer.

Lexmex

A local mechanic here that I have been working with on my RX and my buddy's Z06 told me he swears by this stuff and uses it in large trucks. Not sure if I really would need it if I had a good synthetic. Mobil 1 0W40 was incidentally the only grade of Mobil I really liked, but Castrol 0W30 works just fine for me.

That thing about the seals I have seen on some older vehicles initially when changing over to synthetic, but after a short time the issue seemed to go away. I haven't seen an issue in adding synthetic to our Lexus vehicles at higher mileage after going conventional.

handzilla

Could someone please respond to my post regarding whether or not my knowedge is accurate? Thanks!