Flex33

Just Wanna Know If Anyone Has An Et On How Long It Would Take To Put A New Starter In My Gs4, I Already Say The Thread About Where The Starter Is Located , Just Wanna Know Does It Take That Long To Pull The Manifold Out And Back In The Dealer Said 4.5 To 5.0 Hours

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

If you haven't done it before then 4 or 5 hours is probably a good estimate.

gserep1

Yes,
I have done it also, and 4 to 5 hours is about right with a COLD engine and doing it for the first time. The engine must be cold to do this job without burning yourself up. The metal parts will be HOT!

The intake manifold can removed without draining any coolant. Take off the intake manifold in ONE piece only. There are 5 bolts on each side of the manifold, and often some of these bolts are hidden by dirt. If you disassemble the manifold into pieces, you will need those gaskets to put it back together. DON'T disassemble the upper bolts of theintake manifold. Go to the battom whereit connects to the head and block.

There is a tutorial with pictures on the starter replacement in the "search" part of this website.

The only parts you will need are:

1. The Starter

2. Intake manifold phenolic spacer gaskets. You will need 2. One for each side. May folks have reused the plastic spacer gaskets with no ill effects. They are about 20 bucks for each side, and I didn't take the chance.

3. Coolant Crossover gaskets for the coolant manifold out back. These are litttle small metal gaskets with rubber in the center. take them off and replace the new ones EXACTLY like they came off, or you wil have a coolant leak.

To change the starter, you disconnect the battery, remove the throttle body up front, disconnect all 8 injector wires, and all 8 spark plug coil wiring. disconnect the vacuum hoses and remove the throttle cable and transmission kickdown cable from the throttle body assembly.

Then disconnect the rubber fuel line near the firewall on the drivers' side. Then remove the 10 intake manifold bolts that point straight down into the head. 5 are on each side, and are close to the center of the block in the center. Look closely and you will see them. They come straight up.
Use a magnet because you can (and will ) drop them without a magnet.

Once this is done, the manifold will lift straight up and out. Be careful not to bump and break the vacuum tank underneath the manifold. Lay it down carefully on its' side.

Then unbolt the coolant manifold out back and lift straight up. Removing the starter is MUCH easier if the coolant manifold is removed.

The manifold blocks the two starter bolts holding the starter in. The heater hoses connect to this stainless steel manifold. The coolant manifold unbolts from each head by 2 nuts. The studs go through the coolant manifold, and the nuts hold it down. Underneath this manifold are metal and rubber gaskets. Please replace them if you remove the manifold. You will lose a little coolant when the manifold comes out.

Remove the electrical conectors from the starter. then remove the 2 long bolts holding the starter in from the back. The bolts come real close to the firewall when they come out. Be careful and try not to drop the bolts when they come out.

Remove the starter and inspect the flywheel teeth. They should be in good shape. Reinstall the starter and reverse the order of the disassembly.

It is not hard. It can be done but you have to keep your wits about you. There are much harder jobs on this car. If you have the determination and minimal manual dexterity you can do it.

Good luck!

teshere

1995 LS 400 140,000

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Agwq7j3eqP8

My Starter makes that same exact noise!!!

In Process of changing starter. I got it all back together(new plugs,gaskets,and belt while i was in there). Starter sounded the same??? (I may have forgotten to ground starter (w/nut on starter), so....ill be going back in? F@*&) but was still spinning and sounded same as before change.

I fear it may not be the starter itself??? HELP

HISTORY & SUCH
That weak spinning slow sound became worse over a few weeks. It makes that noise, for ever increasing periods of time, until the engine actually sounds like its turning over and firing.
On day i decided to change: car was taking for ever to start; also ABS and Check Engine lights both came on w/in seconds of each other...unrealted?

I dont suggest doing this job unless u have a real garage or sweet home setup. Not hard but time consuming.

kevin.tran

iTrader: (4)

I did a DIY for the 99gs3 maybe everything as far as taking it apart and putting it back together should be the same the only thing I think that might be differnt is maybe the location of the starter...hoped that helped...

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=254406

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

Unfortunately the Gs400/430 is completely different than the 300 when it comes to the starter. Intake manifold etc...all has to come off, completely different process.

Teshere - Did you replace it with a brand new starter or a junk yard starter? If you replaced it with a junkyard starter it may have had the same problem. If it's making sound/turning then the problem isn't the ground. It sounds like your issue isn't a "click" sound when starting which is generally the starter not turning over. If your starter is turning over but not cranking the engine you may have a flywheel issue.

gserep1

Hello,
If you are sure your starter is good, (such as a Toyota remanufactured starter, or other quality rebuild, ) chances are you didn't properly seat the starter in the recess. Many times the starter appears to be seated, only to have the starter just "spin" and not grab the teeth on the flywheel when attempting a start.

The starter should fit "flush" against the block before the two starter bolts enen installed. Remember, it IS possible to have the bolts tight, and the starter still not seated properly. Be sure there is NOT a gap between the block and starter nose. Try to put the starter in STRAIGHT.

The hole the starter nose fits into is sometimes rusty, and will not allow the starter to fully seat without some force. If you have to really force the old starter out, it is a sure bet the mating surfaces were dirty. Chances are, the starter has been in place a number of years..(7 years in my case).

I clean the whole area with sandpaper prior to installing the replacement starter. I also inspect the flywheel teeth to see if there is any damage. The teeth are clearly visible inside the hole when the starter is removed. This car WILL grind the flywheel teeth if the key is turned to "start" while the engine is running and the transmission selector is in "park" or neutral". I made that mistake on my first GS400. I only did it ONCE.

Also, when the starter is installed, an attempt should be made to normally spin the starter over prior to installation of the intake manifold as a final check.

The starter WILL spin if the connections are good and the battery is connected. The engine won't start and run because there will be no fuel available with the intake manifold off. Be sure to remove the "fuel pump" fuse before turning the ignition switch on. You won't lose fuel from the disconnected fuel line going to the fuel pressure regulator.

Spin it a couple of times in a row to be sure the starter runs properly. It should stay engaged as long as the ignition switch is in the start position.

NOTE: Do not do this procedure unless you have a code checker to erase the codes you get when the air flow meter and other sensors are disconnected.

You will have get a check engine light, and codes will be set as soon as the ignition key is turned to the "on" and "start" positions.

I have a checker, so I knew I would have codes because of so many disconnected sensors. You won't know what the starter will do, and you run the chance of having the starter malfunction if you put it together wrong and then fully assemble the engine prior to attempting a start. I have to know, so I always crank the engine prior to fully reassembling the engine.

If the starter is assembled properly in the hole, you will be able to spin the entire starter around in the hole without binding before you put the bolts in from the back of the block. If it is in crooked, it will bind.

I even put a light coat of lube on the nose mating surfaces (including the hole) to help ensure the starter will go in and is fully seated.

It is very heartbreaking to find the starter is not seated, and the entire intake manifold has to be removed a second time.

All of this is based on knowing the replacement starter is good, the battery is good, and all the connections are correct. A USED starter may have problems of its' own, and that has to be taken in consideration when something "used" (like a junkyard item) is put in place.

If you are getting just a "click", (and the battery and all connections mentioned are good), then the starter solenoid is probebly bad. MAKE SURE, by having your replacement starter bench tested before installation if you have any doubts.