Emil

i forgot about these extra grounding wires!!

thank god i saw this thread,next on my list to install these,helped my civic out alot before,put about an extra 3 ground leads on it in various places in the engine bay

Carter300

It seems like a lot of you guys have some serious systems....heres my question...how in the world did you guys get past the the sub drownout from all the insulation the trunk has?!?!?!? I can barely hear my L7 in the cabin but if i open my trunk, its a world of a difference! What did you guys do to get past the insulated trunk? The only thing i can think of is port through the stock sub opening?....

Tim

I have a system and untill now my friend said my rear tails dimmed when the base hit. Can someone tell me how long of wire it will take to do the big three?

2FiVE8

i used to be an audio installer and i would reccomend like Jokester said adding a second battery with a relay switch, that way the second battery will come on when the car is turned to accessory, caps will not do very much at all and some have been known to melt, or just stop working all together, i would get two optima blue top batteries, just re-locate one in the trunk, use the blue top because you can completly drain it and charge it back up to 100% unlike other batteries which will only recharge to like 75% max, and like everyone else said about the big three.

BilluAwan

BIG 3? whats that ..Confused
I had a dimming issue and got 1.5 farad Power Acustic Digital Cap and its fine now

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

the reason its louder when you open the trunk is because the box is built terribly incorrect! If I remember correctly, the problem with sound amplifying with trunk open, is that the box is too small... or visa versa. what are the specs on the box? (pm sent)



I wish I hadnt gotten out of the audio world so soon.. I cant remember my sources... but you need to get rid of the cap! Caps have already been proven to cause more harm than good. If you dont want to get another battery, then go with a "Bat-Cap" they are extremely light weight and do wonders! Its stores like a cap but distributes like a Battery. and is the size of your fist! (depending on what size you get) anyways...

The "Big Three" was mentioned above:

Replace/Add the following:

1) Ground from Battery to Frame (also to alternator housing a good idea)

2) Grounds from engine to frame (also to firewall)

3) Hot wire from Battery to alternator.



and you also have to remember if you have a cheap amp, your wiring is the very LEAST of your problems! A cheap amp will draw and waste more power than a good amp! a good amp in a sense will power itself! (has many capacitors on its board...

swat1727

iTrader: (2)

i have a 1200 watt amp running the stock sub =/ i had to use a sub since i upgraded to an aftermarket navi. and that 1200 watt amp was the best deal that day on craigslist. lol

krazyGs3

This is what I did. remove the rear seats and rear dash. the stock sub can now be removed. Also there is a black mat that runs from the rear window down to the bottom of the back seat. Took that out came a bit louder.
As for caps yea there not a good idea. Adding batteries is better. A good rule is your going to have multipul batteries make shure there the same brand and size. The story is if the batteries are the same they will discharge and charge the same, the alternator will not know the difference.

djspawn00

I've got two P3's ported through where the stock sub used to be... some sound is lost in the trunk but not much as compared to other designs... In other words MrJokster is correct... about a lot.

I also recommend the kintetik batteries over a cap anyday.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

is it just me or does this look cluttered and junky especially with being able to see the wood?

mtparker18

I say do the Big 3 first. I'm going to do that on my GS3 and Expedition this week

DriftGirl

iTrader: (6)

The big 3 is not an option...its a must. Like Car stereo 101 type stuff

Each one of my sub amps (in the GS3) has "0" gauge wire and its own battery cell. I have them both running at 1ohm

along with full air suspension in the trunk...With just enough room for me to build a shoe rack in it

lexusondubs

iTrader: (9)

got detailed pics or a DIY on where they go ??

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

Carter300, where and how is your box positioned in the trunk? Front or rear, firing up or back? You may be getting cancellation because of the box position, this can sometimes explain why it gets louder with the trunk open. I haven't done any stereo work in the GS, but I'd assume removing the stock sub and any sound deadening behind the rear seat would help get more bass into the cabin.

Nobody has mentioned a high-output alternator? That would be the first thing I'd do if the "Big 3" isn't enough. Caps (and to some extent extra batteries) are only a band-aid on the real problem of the alternator not being able to keep up with the current draw.

jriggs

very long but a good diy
sorry no pics, but if you read threw then open your hood you'll catch on real quick

how to upgrade the BIG 3 from 12volt.com


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Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring. This instruction is to add cables to existing OEM wiring.

Parts and Tools:

As a minimum, you will need to purchase the following:

• Sufficient length of high-strand count high capacity power cable.
- The length required differs for every vehicle. You can measure the length of the existing cables and buy the same length, or contact your dealer or a mechanic and ask, or sometimes you can look it up in a manufacturer's wiring book, or guess. If you guess, make sure you over-estimate and buy too much.
- High strand count cable is more flexible and more reliable than low-strand count cable. Never use solid-core wire in a moving vehicle as it will eventually break.
- The gauge of wire you need depends on the total current draw of your audio system, and/or the current generating capacity of your alternator. Never use smaller cable that you used to power your amps; never use smaller cable than what already exists in your vehicle; never use smaller cable than the generating capacity of your alternator; never use smaller than 4 AWG (it's just not worth the time to use anything smaller); if in doubt, always use higher gauge cable than you think you need. If you look at the Power and Ground charts and your amplifier current draw corresponds to 2 AWG cable, use no smaller than 2 AWG cable, and use 1/0 if you can.

• 6 ring terminals or lugs of the appropriate size for the cable chosen. Two of these need to be large enough to fit over your battery posts, or appropriately sized to bolt onto your existing battery terminals.
• 1/2" or 5/8" shrink tubing (or some other form of permanent electrical insulation. Tape is NOT recommended.)
• Cable ties (plastic zip ties.)

• Wire cutters large enough to handle the cable you choose.
• Crimpers large enough to handle the connectors you choose.
• Soldering iron or gun.
• Solder.
• Scotch brite and/or a small wire brush.
• Heat gun.
• Safety razor blade (or other tool for stripping cable).
• Heat gun (if using shrink tubing).
• Wrenches for removing bolts in your vehicle.

Procedure:

1. Make sure your engine is completely cool before beginning. Identify the three cables being replaced. Make sure you can reach both ends of all cables. NOTE: the engine block to chassis cable may be between the engine and the transmission, or connected to the transmission and the fire wall, and is often an un-insulated flat braid cable.

2. Determine the lengths of cable needed to reach between the three locations being upgraded. Be sure you measure with a flexible tape (a tape measure used for sewing works great) and record the total length along the path you intend to install the cable. You do not want your cables to be pulled tight between any two locations as things move and vibrate as you drive. Be sure to include at least 1 inch extra for slack. NOTE: there is no reason to copy the existing wiring layout in your vehicle unless you want to. Also, be sure that the path you choose does not follow or lay across anything that gets hot, like exhaust parts, or anything that must move, like throttle linkage.

3. Cut your new cable to the three proper lengths. NOTE: some people like to use red cable for positive and black cable for negative. Doing this is completely up to you and is nice, but not necessary. You can use cable with any color insulation you like.

4. Strip each end of all cables to the proper length for the terminal lugs being used. NOTE: after full insertion into the lug, a small "band" of bare wire is usually seen between the back of the lug and the beginning of the cable insulation.

5. Begin at any one end and insert the stripped cable into the lug. Make sure it is fully inserted. Crimp the connector to hold the wire in place. NOTE: crimping large cable can be difficult. The intention here is not to make the crimp the sole means of holding the wire, but only to make sure the lug does not slip around during the soldering phase. I do NOT recommend using hammers or pliers or vices to crimp the connector as over-crimping can break the strands of the cable, reducing the current carrying capacity. Do not over-crimp.

6. You may need to use a vise or some other set of "helping hands" to hold the cable while you solder it. Heat your soldering iron and place it on the connector (on the lug side) barrel. Hold a piece of solder against the tip of the iron and melt the solder into the strands of the cable. Use sufficient solder to fill the connector and completely cover all strands of the cable. NOTE: the lug will get hot and will burn you if you try to hold it. Also, if the insulation on the cable starts to melt, you are over-heating the cable and not paying attention to melting the solder into the cable. You do not need to try and melt the cable!

7. Repeat the above steps on each end of all three cables.

8. After the cables have completely cooled, cut a piece of shrink tubing long enough to cover the soldered barrel end of the lugs and reach about 1/2" onto the insulation of each cable end. Slide this over each lug and use a heat gun to recover the tubing in place.

9. Disconnect your battery, starting with the negative cable first then the positive cable. Discharge any caps you may have in the system.

10. Begin adding your new cables along side the existing ones. I usually begin with the alternator positive cable. Locate the output stud on your alternator and remove the nut. Slip the new cable onto the lug and replace the nut. There is no need to disturb the existing cabling. Route the new cable to the battery and position it to connect to the positive battery post (or connect it to the positive terminal on the OEM wiring) but do not connect the battery yet.

11. Secure the new cable in place by using cable ties every 6 to 8 inches. Secure the cable to cool non-moving parts!

12. Locate where the negative battery cable attaches to the vehicle chassis. Remove this bolt and the OEM battery cable, and clean the mounting area of the chassis using scotch brite and/or a wire brush. Make sure there is no dirt, rust, paint, undercoating, etc in this location. You want bright shiny metal. Connect both your new ground and the OEM ground back to the chassis. NOTE: Some people like to create a new ground location by drilling into the chassis and using a bolt with star lock washers for the new ground cable. Route this new cable back to the battery and position it to be attached, or connect it to the negative terminal. Do not reconnect the battery yet.

13. Secure the negative cable using cable ties every 6-8 inches. Again, don't tie it to anything that moves or that gets hot!

14. Disconnect the engine ground strap at both ends. Using the wire brush or scotch brite, clean both the engine block and the chassis as you did for the first ground strap.

15. Line up the lugs on both the OEM ground strap and your new ground cable, and use cable ties to secure them to each other. This is much easier to accomplish in your lap or on the floor than it is while lying under your car or hanging upside down in the engine compartment. Reinstall both cables at the same time using the factory bolts.

16. Double check to make sure all bolts are tight. Be careful not to over-tighten them as you don't want to strip anything! Also, on some factory alternators it is WAY too easy to twist off the positive output lug. If you break it off, well hell, you really wanted a high-output alternator anyway, right? It is also a good idea at this point to measure resistance of the new cables. Take an ohm reading between the battery end of the new ground cable and the engine block. It should read less than one ohm. Also check between the alternator bolt and the disconnected positive battery terminal, which should also be less than one ohm. If you read too high resistance, double check all connections and make sure you do not have something c**ked sideways or hanging loose.

NOTE: Realize that the "absolute ground" of the electrical system is not the battery negative terminal or the vehicle chassis, but is the case of the alternator itself. This is why perhaps the most important cable among the Big 3 is the engine ground strap, as this is what connects the alternator ground to the vehicle's chassis. Be certain the resistance between the alternator case (the engine block assuming the alternator is properly bolted to the engine) and the battery negative is minimized. (Thanks to the12volt for pointing this out!)

17. When you are sure you are done and anything in your system that you may have disconnected are re-connected, clean your battery posts and reconnect the positive battery terminal first, then the negative one.

18. Start your vehicle. Hopefully the engine starts. Examine the engine compartment and make sure none of your cables are getting hot or are vibrating or shaking around. If they are vibrating too much you may need to relocate them or use more cable ties. If you see smoke, immediately shut off the car and disconnect the battery. Seek help.

19. Assuming all looks good, take a voltage reading at your amplifier and ensure you read 13.8 (or higher) volts. This indicates a properly operating charging system.

20. Now'd be a good time to turn it on and make sure it sounds good! Then of course log onto the12volt.com and post that you have upgraded your Big 3!