Car not starting guys ....
12-28-08, 07:39 PM
#18
Lexus Test Driver
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Yea i had a new battery but it turn out that the leaking powersteering pump messed up my alternator and basically my alternator wasnt charging the battery and i was reunning off of straight battery until it died. Fix the leak and hit me back when i do my 2jz swap Ill hook you up on an alternator or powersteering pump if you need them. I had to replace both. Just let me know.
12-28-08, 07:40 PM
#19
That sounds like symptoms of a bad alternator. Take off the alternator and get it checked at your local auto store. The car should be able to run without the battery connected. It is needed for starting purposes only. After you get the car to start, unplug the battery and see if the car shuts off. If it does, then it is the alternator.
12-28-08, 07:53 PM
#24
If it starts with a new battery and runs out later- then it's likely the alternator. You said that you jump the battery - make sure the battery cable is of adequate guage and that the car jumping it has a battery with enough amp. It should have atleast clicked or tried to crank.
Your fuel pump can also go bad- but if it starts then it's unlikely the source. Your key may not turn all the way - unlikely but worth thinking about.
Make sure everything else it connected before you crank it again.
How did the problem come about? Did it just happen one morning? Did the lights flicker while it was okay when you drove it recently?
Your fuel pump can also go bad- but if it starts then it's unlikely the source. Your key may not turn all the way - unlikely but worth thinking about.
Make sure everything else it connected before you crank it again.
How did the problem come about? Did it just happen one morning? Did the lights flicker while it was okay when you drove it recently?
12-28-08, 07:56 PM
#25
Its very hard to get to ... so prior to taking it off the car by disconnecting and reconnecting from the harness ..
and rating from 0-10 how hard is getting to this ... from the looks of it ...very tight spot .. I might say 6-7 ? only held on by 2 bolts but the whole harness is in the way ...
and rating from 0-10 how hard is getting to this ... from the looks of it ...very tight spot .. I might say 6-7 ? only held on by 2 bolts but the whole harness is in the way ...
12-28-08, 08:00 PM
#27
If it starts with a new battery and runs out later- then it's likely the alternator. You said that you jump the battery - make sure the battery cable is of adequate guage and that the car jumping it has a battery with enough amp. It should have atleast clicked or tried to crank.
Your fuel pump can also go bad- but if it starts then it's unlikely the source. Your key may not turn all the way - unlikely but worth thinking about.
Make sure everything else it connected before you crank it again.
How did the problem come about? Did it just happen one morning? Did the lights flicker while it was okay when you drove it recently?
Your fuel pump can also go bad- but if it starts then it's unlikely the source. Your key may not turn all the way - unlikely but worth thinking about.
Make sure everything else it connected before you crank it again.
How did the problem come about? Did it just happen one morning? Did the lights flicker while it was okay when you drove it recently?
Sam I have one of the most unique air bag systems on the forums ... I have also 2 40 amp compressors (AZ)that I understand almost killed the old battery .. instead of charging it I replaced it for free
Jumping a car was/is simple .. and I have to keep my foot on the gas to kick up throttle .. because my alt . is not powerful enough for 80 amp draws ..
The car was on and I was airing it up prior to driving. .. walked away .. and the car was dead .. I was thinking that the compressors killed it but I know that wasnt the issue. Its something related to the car not starting at all even with a strong crank ,
I have read the codes ... No alternator issues
12-28-08, 08:08 PM
#28
reference ?
P1120 TP Sensor Out Of Range Low (Ratch Too Low)
P1121 TP Sensor Inconsistent With MAF Sensor
P1122 TP In Range But Lower Than Expected
P1123 TP In Range But Higher Than Expected
P1124 TP Sensor Out Of Self Test Range
P1125 TP Sensor Intermittent
P1126 TP (Narrow Range) Sensor Circuit Malfunction
So out of range ? what does anyone know what the stock range is and how to read what the range is at now ? just an ordinary multimeter ?
Thanks
P1120 TP Sensor Out Of Range Low (Ratch Too Low)
P1121 TP Sensor Inconsistent With MAF Sensor
P1122 TP In Range But Lower Than Expected
P1123 TP In Range But Higher Than Expected
P1124 TP Sensor Out Of Self Test Range
P1125 TP Sensor Intermittent
P1126 TP (Narrow Range) Sensor Circuit Malfunction
So out of range ? what does anyone know what the stock range is and how to read what the range is at now ? just an ordinary multimeter ?
Thanks
12-28-08, 08:10 PM
#29
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Sam I have one of the most unique air bag systems on the forums ... I have also 2 40 amp compressors (AZ)that I understand almost killed the old battery .. instead of charging it I replaced it for free
Jumping a car was/is simple .. and I have to keep my foot on the gas to kick up throttle .. because my alt . is not powerful enough for 80 amp draws ..
The car was on and I was airing it up prior to driving. .. walked away .. and the car was dead .. I was thinking that the compressors killed it but I know that wasnt the issue. Its something related to the car not starting at all even with a strong crank ,
I have read the codes ... No alternator issues
Sam I have one of the most unique air bag systems on the forums ... I have also 2 40 amp compressors (AZ)that I understand almost killed the old battery .. instead of charging it I replaced it for free
Jumping a car was/is simple .. and I have to keep my foot on the gas to kick up throttle .. because my alt . is not powerful enough for 80 amp draws ..
The car was on and I was airing it up prior to driving. .. walked away .. and the car was dead .. I was thinking that the compressors killed it but I know that wasnt the issue. Its something related to the car not starting at all even with a strong crank ,
I have read the codes ... No alternator issues
think about it....TPS, MAF, they're all electronic, thus need a certain current to work properly. Without letting your battery fully charge (that is with a charger that plugs into the wall, not just a booster pack or jumper cables), you won't get anywhere with a bad alternator.