GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Watch this video clip and diagnose starting problem with my GS400

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Old 12-31-08, 08:19 PM
  #16  
JeffTsai
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The starter will crank regardless of if you have the right key or not. The immobolizer prevents the engine from sending fuel and spark to the engine if you don't have the right keycode, but the starter will still crank with the wrong/bad/damaged immobolizer chip on the key. I think it's your starter relay that went out since there is not even a clicking sound.
Old 12-31-08, 11:31 PM
  #17  
istundra
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When i was programming a new key fob to my 2GS and failed, it looked exactly like the video!

To OP, did you try another key? Maybe a spare with minimal use? Worth a shot!
Old 01-01-09, 03:16 AM
  #18  
lowlows18
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could it be the neutral safety switch??..try putting the car in neutral and then starting it
Old 01-01-09, 07:55 AM
  #19  
gserep1
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Yes,
By all means try jiggling your gear shifter while holding the key on start. I can verify that my car will act just like yours if I have the gearshift in any position other than park or neutral. This is possible. the starter would have to be very bad not to at least click or make some kind of acknowledgement that the key was turned.

Having done 3 of these starters in the past, I would say that it is not too hard but you do need to have patience, and make sure to disconnect everything you need to before trying to lift the intake manifold off the engine block. Be sure to start with a COLD engine, because on a warm engine,you will touch many hot parts, and that gets uncomfortable.

I did the last one on a 99 LS400, and it was a lot different than the 99 GS400. My brother in law did not believe that it could be his starter, and kept trying to blame the ignition switch and battery. When he was on a trip on a hot summer day, and all it would do was click faintly, he finally understood that this unit will do just that. Frankly, I'd do 3 GS starters before I would want to do 1 LS starter. That is because of the climate control heater hoses and tight fit under the firewall. That drove me nuts trying to work around all of that stuff. The engine is identical, but the accessories on the intake manifold are different.

Give it all a try, and if you can't do the starter yourself, have it done quickly. Shop around. There are many avenues of thought on this. I went back with a Lexus factory rebuild, although others use other aftermarket starters like Pep boys or Autozone and the like. Others choose to just replace the contacts and go again. It is a lot of work, and frankly, I don't want to do that job again for quite a long time, so I played it safe.

Keep us informed. HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!
Old 01-01-09, 12:56 PM
  #20  
gserep1
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I just made a startling discovery even after all of these years of owning my Lexus vehicle. I found out that:

1. If you attempt to start your car and the shifter is in any other position but PARK or NEUTRAL, the dashboard will not dim (go black when the key is turned to start). The radio and heater controls will dm, but not the dash.

2. Whether the starter engages or not, the dash will dim, indicating that the neutral safety switch is good, and current should be going to the start relay and the starter solenoid.

This is good to know since I watched the litle video and wondered if I could duplicate what I saw. Based on what I saw, I feel pretty confident that the starter itself is bad. The steering motor was getting current, as was indicated everytime the key was removed and inserted, so I think the battery is good.

Sorry to say that it is the starter. So if you own a GS300 or GS400 (or LS) long enough, you will encounter a starter problem and have to get it fixed. Just a fact of life.

Last edited by gserep1; 01-02-09 at 07:57 AM.
Old 01-01-09, 11:25 PM
  #21  
GS4_Fiend
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Originally Posted by Coco-bun
it's a relay so it's bigger than a fuse


this got me thinking...try starting in neutral in an open field in case the gear position isn't recognizing that it's in park.

If it's not even clicking, I would also check the cable that runs from the battery to the starter.
That's a good recognition! Some toyota's have that problem where the positive cable is loose. =)
Old 01-02-09, 02:55 AM
  #22  
LuxOut003
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I have the exact problem a month ago and i got it repaired. It was indeed the damn starter. It's not the battery in your key, think about the valet key where it doesnt have a battery, but i changed it anyways. I brought the car to the dealer and they wanted 600+ for a damn starter installed, starter is average $180.00 and that is for a new one. The dealer told me they would take the starter out and REBUILD it, changing the rod or something and cleaning it. They said they rebuilt all their starters with waranty and don't recommand customers to do it. I managed to take the starter out and brought it in a local starter shop and costed me 3 bootleg DvD to have the guy rebuild it. Starts fine everytime, no problem whatsoever. Safe your money and do it yourself. Or bring it to a shop!
Old 01-02-09, 04:40 PM
  #23  
Kruger
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Originally Posted by FrankT
Low miles do not matter as much as the number of cranks.
The contacts in your starter are most likely toast (this is a wear part in the starter solenoid with a lifespan of 10+ years) .

There is lots of info on starter rebuild / replacement on this forum.

Now, the question is, are you willing to tackle this fix yourself?
Easily done for less than $50, cost of new contacts, gaskets, coolant and a few hours.
...or pay someone $600 to $1000 for the fix.
On the 1uz motor the complete intake must be removed to access the starter.

Where in Texas are you...?
I'm in Houston, do you know somebody I should take it to?

I wonder why it will start sometimes and not others. The dealership has had it for a while and they can't replicate the problem. What is the cheapest fix I can try by myself that doesn't require a bunch of wrenching? I'm talking about a replacement fuse kind of thing. I'd just as soon roll the dice on a $50 repair before paying $1,000 for a new starter.

This sucks. A $1,000 repair on a $15,000 car is an ouch.
Old 01-02-09, 07:44 PM
  #24  
VNN326
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its your starter or fuze, i would check the fuze 1st. then start going towards replacing the starter. GL
Old 01-02-09, 08:38 PM
  #25  
FrankT
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If you haven't already, read THIS thread.
Then evaluate if you would want to do this yourself.

Too bad I'm not in HOU I have done a few of these...
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