GS FONZy

iTrader: (6)

Yes, it reads air temp and the ecu will adjust the A/F ratio, but if you have cooler air going into your engine, performance improves. Otherwise, you are claiming CAI are useless and don't do anything for performance, which we know it's not true. Coold air improves performance period.

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

I wasn't giving the formulas because of the MAF, the point was that people claim that the air inside the intake is heated up by the heat from the engine bay (which would also affect the IAT as the temp of the air in the pipe will be roughly the same as the temp of the air at the IAT, it's not going to lose energy by traveling through a warm medium). I was just showing that it didn't make a difference whether is was plastic of steel or aluminum in that case. Though, you could use the formulas to approximate the amount of heat that would be transferred to the plastic MAF over a given period of time based on the temp difference between the engine bay and intake air.

The length of the pipe comes in to play when choosing pipe diameter to a point. If you were referring to it based upon the heat transfer the length doesn't really matter, it's the thickness of the material walls that would matter.

The IAT is prone to heat soak however, common problem on Supra's. The make a phenolic spacer for the IAT to isolate it from heat which is supposed to help, but a lot of people also relocate the IAT to the intercooler piping on those cars which more or less does the same thing. Of course most GS's don't have intercooler piping so finding a way to isolate the IAT from heat would be the more likely option.

Selvarace

I know this thread is a few months old. I thought Id chime in my two cents. I am a tuner, with a dyno. I have tunes all kinds of cars with GReddy,AEM and SAFC's. About the eBay intakes and CEL's. no matter what intake you instal on any car, you should reset the ECU before driving. macd7919 knows what hes taliking about. I have designed custom intakes for many cars and have tested them on our dyno. Most of what he said I can very well vouch for. Especillay the pizza thing.

Most ECU's will compensate for the higher air volume. Heres an extreme but common example: In some rare cases, we have installed very(and I mean very ) low boos turbo installs on Nissan 240SX(KA24DE) motors. Im talking around 4-6psi boost, and NOT getting CEL. On the dyno, the stock ECU is running at its maximum compensation and approaching lean, for the fact that the fuel system is not augmented, but getting no CEL for lean conditions. A 4-6psi even though low boost, is far outflowing what any bolt on intake in a N/A engine could flow. Again, this is rare, but it shows my point that a reset factor ecu CAN compensate at an extreme for greater airflow.

I get many of these little ricer guys that come in the shop with a CEL after installing an eBay, AEM or just about any intake. Some are lucky and dont get a CEL, but the ones that do, first thing I do is reset the ECU. The CEL usually goes away and stays off. The ones that have the CEL keep coming on, is the usually related to improper install. someone earlier in the thread said the position of the MAF matters. Yes it does. In the hundreds of intakes we have installed, the eBay ones are usually the problem. The reason why is that they dont come with instructions and sometimes composed fo several pieces of piping coupled together rather than a one piece multi bend pipe as the big brands are. In some cases, the MAF is backwards, or rotated to a position where the bend in the intake screws with the flow. we can usually trace the problem to the improper install.

as far as the diameter of the piping throwing a CEL, Its can happen, but again, usually fixed with a reset of the ECU. The ECU once reset can compensate and should not throw a CEL. We did have guy come in once with an eBay intake for a 98 GS400, but he installed it on a 98 SC400. The two cars share the same engine. He read on another Lexus forum the intakes were comatible for the 98 up GS4 and 98 up SC4 coupe. He is right, they have the same engine, just the SC is rated at 10 hp less due to the crappy exhaust and intake on those cars. I know I had a 94 SC400. a custom exhaust and an intake of my own design with no SAFC yeilded just under 28 hp/32tq on the older gen V8. This customer, immediately got a CEL for lean condition/airflow. we simply reset the ECU and CEL went away. This intake he bought on eBay looked to be a copy of the SRT only without the piggyback chip. Its pipe measured 3.5"(90mm). Much bigger in diameter than the 3inch Weapon R and the 2.75" Injen. By the way, the diameter of the K&N is 3.5" too, and its plastic moulded shape gives a cleaner path for airflow than a bent metal tube of the others. The bottom line is, all these intakes do flow more air than the factory intake. The cone filters on the aftermarket intakes average about 15% more surface area than the factory panel filters alone, then get rid of the snorkel and weird bends in the oem plastic piping. As macd7919 said, its not bad designs, they do what they are supposed to. FLOW MORE MUSHROOMS on your pizza, I mean flow more air! LOL. I think if you clean your MAF, make sure its installed correctly and reset the ECU, you cant go wrong with any of them. BUT, the best route is definitely to add an Air/Fule management computer of some sort to get the most out of it.

Now if you excuse me, Im hungry for a Mushroom pizza!

tonysgs300

iTrader: (2)

You got me Hungry Now!!!!! I love terms that involve food and cars! macd You Rock BRO