P1300 Code - Igniter problem???
05-13-09, 11:29 AM
#16
iModerate
Get your old parts back after they fix it and test them per the PDF i posted. Also ask them how they determined it was bad.
A lot of dealer repair shops will get a new part off the shelf and test it on the car to make sure their diagnosis is correct before calling the customer with the estimate. They are probably correct.
A lot of dealer repair shops will get a new part off the shelf and test it on the car to make sure their diagnosis is correct before calling the customer with the estimate. They are probably correct.
05-13-09, 11:51 AM
#17
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Get your old parts back after they fix it and test them per the PDF i posted. Also ask them how they determined it was bad.
A lot of dealer repair shops will get a new part off the shelf and test it on the car to make sure their diagnosis is correct before calling the customer with the estimate. They are probably correct.
A lot of dealer repair shops will get a new part off the shelf and test it on the car to make sure their diagnosis is correct before calling the customer with the estimate. They are probably correct.
They dont have the new part on the shelf because I guess this happens so rarely they have to order it. They have no way of testing a new part unless they order it and test it on my car in which case I have to pay for it.
*Edit: The tech guys gonna try to find a GS that he can pull the igniter out of and test on mine before they order it.... he said the igniter is doing what its suppose to but its just not sending the signal to the blah blah and its triggering the check engine light. IDK wtf!
Last edited by T.K.O.; 05-13-09 at 12:18 PM.
05-13-09, 03:33 PM
#18
Get your old parts back after they fix it and test them per the PDF i posted. Also ask them how they determined it was bad.
A lot of dealer repair shops will get a new part off the shelf and test it on the car to make sure their diagnosis is correct before calling the customer with the estimate. They are probably correct.
A lot of dealer repair shops will get a new part off the shelf and test it on the car to make sure their diagnosis is correct before calling the customer with the estimate. They are probably correct.
The only other thing I can think of is taking the plug that goes into the ignitor and make sure the contacts in the plug are making good contact on the pins for the igniter. If there is an intermittent connection there it would be the same as the igniter not showing output/input on whatever terminal is making a loose connection. The dealer would throw a new one on there, realize it didn't work and then bend the pins a little bit to make better contact, call you up and tell you it's fixed for $800 when all you needed was adjust the pins on the plug for free. Not saying this is the problem but it would be something to check.
Honestly the dealer would be the very very very last place I take my car for work like this. Since you know the code maybe do a little research online and see if you can find an independent garage that has really good reviews. I'm not sure in the Seattle area but I'm sure there is someone up there who is respectable. What about some of the guys in the Pacific forum, they do a lot of work for themselves and frequently help others out, might not be a bad place to try.
05-13-09, 05:48 PM
#19
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That wont work because if they are claiming the igniter is the problem but it's something else and they just want to get the $$$ as T.K.O mentioned then even if you test the igniter yourself and find it ok they are going to tell you to suck one if you ask for a refund. The dealer is a joke.
The only other thing I can think of is taking the plug that goes into the ignitor and make sure the contacts in the plug are making good contact on the pins for the igniter. If there is an intermittent connection there it would be the same as the igniter not showing output/input on whatever terminal is making a loose connection. The dealer would throw a new one on there, realize it didn't work and then bend the pins a little bit to make better contact, call you up and tell you it's fixed for $800 when all you needed was adjust the pins on the plug for free. Not saying this is the problem but it would be something to check.
Honestly the dealer would be the very very very last place I take my car for work like this. Since you know the code maybe do a little research online and see if you can find an independent garage that has really good reviews. I'm not sure in the Seattle area but I'm sure there is someone up there who is respectable. What about some of the guys in the Pacific forum, they do a lot of work for themselves and frequently help others out, might not be a bad place to try.
The only other thing I can think of is taking the plug that goes into the ignitor and make sure the contacts in the plug are making good contact on the pins for the igniter. If there is an intermittent connection there it would be the same as the igniter not showing output/input on whatever terminal is making a loose connection. The dealer would throw a new one on there, realize it didn't work and then bend the pins a little bit to make better contact, call you up and tell you it's fixed for $800 when all you needed was adjust the pins on the plug for free. Not saying this is the problem but it would be something to check.
Honestly the dealer would be the very very very last place I take my car for work like this. Since you know the code maybe do a little research online and see if you can find an independent garage that has really good reviews. I'm not sure in the Seattle area but I'm sure there is someone up there who is respectable. What about some of the guys in the Pacific forum, they do a lot of work for themselves and frequently help others out, might not be a bad place to try.
Here's how it went:
He told me he could use the igniter from one of the GS's they had for sale at the dealership, but he'd have to charge me $60 for the 30 minutes it'd take to swap and check them.
I said fine. I showed up 45 minutes later and those 4 sweet I was waiting to hear... I heard...
"It's not the igniter"
He said the mechanics in the back that have been working on Lexus' for 15 - 20 years are scratchin their head. They put it through the flow sheet test and everything passes every time.
Hes keeping it overnight to call the factory first thing in the morning and have a call into me by 9:30 to let me know what direction well be heading with this...
He offered to give me a car for the night but I didn't need it.
05-13-09, 07:36 PM
#20
iModerate
Thanks Mac
Here's how it went:
He told me he could use the igniter from one of the GS's they had for sale at the dealership, but he'd have to charge me $60 for the 30 minutes it'd take to swap and check them.
I said fine. I showed up 45 minutes later and those 4 sweet I was waiting to hear... I heard...
"It's not the igniter"
He said the mechanics in the back that have been working on Lexus' for 15 - 20 years are scratchin their head. They put it through the flow sheet test and everything passes every time.
Hes keeping it overnight to call the factory first thing in the morning and have a call into me by 9:30 to let me know what direction well be heading with this...
He offered to give me a car for the night but I didn't need it.
Here's how it went:
He told me he could use the igniter from one of the GS's they had for sale at the dealership, but he'd have to charge me $60 for the 30 minutes it'd take to swap and check them.
I said fine. I showed up 45 minutes later and those 4 sweet I was waiting to hear... I heard...
"It's not the igniter"
He said the mechanics in the back that have been working on Lexus' for 15 - 20 years are scratchin their head. They put it through the flow sheet test and everything passes every time.
Hes keeping it overnight to call the factory first thing in the morning and have a call into me by 9:30 to let me know what direction well be heading with this...
He offered to give me a car for the night but I didn't need it.
The chances of two igniters being bad are very slim. Gool luck with whatever they determine is the real issue. You may be looking at some serious time without your car while they try to figure it out. keep us posted.
05-13-09, 10:38 PM
#21
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I spent some years as a service manager. I figured they would pull one from another car to test it. I did not expect them to admit to it and charge you for it.
The chances of two igniters being bad are very slim. Gool luck with whatever they determine is the real issue. You may be looking at some serious time without your car while they try to figure it out. keep us posted.
The chances of two igniters being bad are very slim. Gool luck with whatever they determine is the real issue. You may be looking at some serious time without your car while they try to figure it out. keep us posted.
05-15-09, 12:12 AM
#23
iModerate
PROBLEM SOLVED!
For some unknown reason the digital gauge for my air ride thats hooked up to the fuse block to start when the car starts was causing the light to go on. Such a pain in the **** to figure out. It was working fine for just under a year... then all the sudden? Very strange, glad it didn't cost a lot. Thanks everyone for all the help!
For some unknown reason the digital gauge for my air ride thats hooked up to the fuse block to start when the car starts was causing the light to go on. Such a pain in the **** to figure out. It was working fine for just under a year... then all the sudden? Very strange, glad it didn't cost a lot. Thanks everyone for all the help!
Glad to hear its fixed. 
05-15-09, 11:45 AM
#24
My Check Engine Light came on ( making my VSC and VSC OFF lights turn on ) the other day in my 2002 GS300.
I had the codes read and it is "P1300 - Igniter #1"
At the shop I took it to they said the code isn't applicable to Lexus, but don't know whats triggering it to go off. They said the igniter circuit is fine and they can't find any other issues.
Has anyone else had this problem? I've seen in a few posts people having igniter problems and the car being jerky and slow but thats not the case for me, everything seems to be running fine.
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
PROBLEM SOLVED!
For some unknown reason the digital gauge for my air ride thats hooked up to the fuse block to start when the car starts was causing the light to go on. Such a pain in the **** to figure out. It was working fine for just under a year... then all the sudden? Very strange, glad it didn't cost a lot. Thanks everyone for all the help!
I had the codes read and it is "P1300 - Igniter #1"
At the shop I took it to they said the code isn't applicable to Lexus, but don't know whats triggering it to go off. They said the igniter circuit is fine and they can't find any other issues.
Has anyone else had this problem? I've seen in a few posts people having igniter problems and the car being jerky and slow but thats not the case for me, everything seems to be running fine.
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
PROBLEM SOLVED!
For some unknown reason the digital gauge for my air ride thats hooked up to the fuse block to start when the car starts was causing the light to go on. Such a pain in the **** to figure out. It was working fine for just under a year... then all the sudden? Very strange, glad it didn't cost a lot. Thanks everyone for all the help!
04-08-19, 08:28 AM
#25
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So you replaced the controller for you're air suspension?? I am having the same pr
PROBLEM SOLVED!
For some unknown reason the digital gauge for my air ride thats hooked up to the fuse block to start when the car starts was causing the light to go on. Such a pain in the **** to figure out. It was working fine for just under a year... then all the sudden? Very strange, glad it didn't cost a lot. Thanks everyone for all the help!
For some unknown reason the digital gauge for my air ride thats hooked up to the fuse block to start when the car starts was causing the light to go on. Such a pain in the **** to figure out. It was working fine for just under a year... then all the sudden? Very strange, glad it didn't cost a lot. Thanks everyone for all the help!
03-23-20, 06:50 PM
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03-14-22, 02:06 PM
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P1300 ignitors, no air ride
Having a problem with my 96 ls400, car stalled and would start for 2 - 3 sec.- CEL. came on, ran code P1300-P1305 came up, said ignitors 1 & 2, changed coil, plugs, wires and ignitors, still says ignitors and yes I disconnected the neg cable still coded. check the ecm or and cps
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