How to Vacuum A/C Line
#17
yes, tearing down and rebuilding or replacing the compressor would be the best way to go but REALLY isnt cost efficient or needed in most situations. the leak sealant is essentially a oil (which most people dont know but this is what most freons are also). it does react to oxygen and it doesnt exactly solidify. it essentially adds a coating of oil over the leak and then another coating as it circulates through the system which is why its VITAL to have the system running when you add this! i have heard of on home systems pf sealant's jamming up compressors but as i said we have NEVER had a problem with this specific product. this also isnt designed for a major leak, if you have small...or pinhole leaks this is perfect for you; if you have a hole or something in the system then its not gonna be for you (the OP). i've NEVER heard of a a/c shop refusing to work on a car because a sealant is in it...i guess they could refuse if they wanna but they wouldnt ever know if you didnt tell them (not that im saying to hide it im just saying you couldnt look at it and say "oh that has a sealant in it") and you know compressor is leaking OP....did someone run dye through it or how/why do you assume the compressor is leaking?
omfg, due be quiet. its not a band aid... it is actually a fix and the tool your talking about to "withdrawal" freon (its actually called recovering freon and you need a recovery machine) and then you will also need a vacuum pump to vacuum down the system that's the CORRECT way mr gearhead....and is not needed here if he uses the sealer.
dont take me wrong alexus im happy to debate this with you but as i said to jeff this is how/where i make my living. i manage a HVAC supply house i've been at for 9 years and we have over 300 stores nationwide so i do know a bit about HVAC. no, im not a major gearhead and will probably never teardown/rebuild a car motor but i can do most heating/air things in my sleep
OP the freon i recommended to you...(if you had read that post about it, you would know) its a direct drop in for 134, it runs 10 degrees colder than 12 and is cheap (like $11 a can). i have it in my gs430 and can get my air to mid 40's on the interstate (verified with a temp gun) and my old es300 had it and the sealant and it would get down to mid to high 30's on the interstate. you can buy it from probably any HVAC supply house....i know we carry it ( if you pm me i will tell you where one of our stores is located nearby you)
omfg, due be quiet. its not a band aid... it is actually a fix and the tool your talking about to "withdrawal" freon (its actually called recovering freon and you need a recovery machine) and then you will also need a vacuum pump to vacuum down the system that's the CORRECT way mr gearhead....and is not needed here if he uses the sealer.
dont take me wrong alexus im happy to debate this with you but as i said to jeff this is how/where i make my living. i manage a HVAC supply house i've been at for 9 years and we have over 300 stores nationwide so i do know a bit about HVAC. no, im not a major gearhead and will probably never teardown/rebuild a car motor but i can do most heating/air things in my sleep
OP the freon i recommended to you...(if you had read that post about it, you would know) its a direct drop in for 134, it runs 10 degrees colder than 12 and is cheap (like $11 a can). i have it in my gs430 and can get my air to mid 40's on the interstate (verified with a temp gun) and my old es300 had it and the sealant and it would get down to mid to high 30's on the interstate. you can buy it from probably any HVAC supply house....i know we carry it ( if you pm me i will tell you where one of our stores is located nearby you)
#18
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (182)
1) we sell it and it is a drop DIRECT drop in replacement for r12,r134a,r500, and more
2) i have it in MY gs
also had u looked at the link i posted in # 4 you would see this "Replaces R-12, R-134a, R-401A, R-401B, R-409A, R-416A, R-420A, and R-500."
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post