How to Vacuum A/C Line
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How to Vacuum A/C Line
I just bought an A/C compressor sealant that ask that I vacuum the A/C line before istalling. Is there a dyi way to do this without having to take it to a shop and paying them to evacuate the system.
#2
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DO NOT use the AC fix a leak stuff. It's a 50/50 chance of working or less. If it plugs the leak...then good. If it doesn't then you will be in a world of hurt. The sealing compound will solidify in the lines and possibly into the evaporator/condensor/compressor. You will end up having to replace almost everything in the AC system because the stuff will clog everything up.
#4
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u can read about it here
http://www.icorinternational.com/hotshot.html
DO NOT use the AC fix a leak stuff. It's a 50/50 chance of working or less. If it plugs the leak...then good. If it doesn't then you will be in a world of hurt. The sealing compound will solidify in the lines and possibly into the evaporator/condensor/compressor. You will end up having to replace almost everything in the AC system because the stuff will clog everything up.
this is the one i recommended to him
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pc-1...um-946kit.aspx
read about it here....
http://www.cliplight.com/hvacr/news.php?articleID=32
oh btw this is the residential one
http://www.climatedoctors.com/items/...?itemid=429298
Last edited by sakataj; 05-29-09 at 11:37 AM.
#5
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I haven't personally used it. I usually just tear down the AC and fix whatever is leaking rather than using a sealing additive. I do occasional AC work on my car and on friends so I'm not new at it. I'm sure you have a ton more experience than me so I won't argue with what you have to say.
But I have never used the leak sealer because of what I've seen in some cases online. They used the leak fixer stuff that ends up crystallizing up and clogging up everything around the leak. If I'm not mistaken, that stuff reacts to oxygen(areas around leaks) and will solidify. I'm guessing the people that clog up their system have a major leak and not just a minor one. Also, don't some A/C shops refuse to work on the car if they have that stuff in your car. It clogs up their AC refrigerant recovery machine or something like that.
But I have never used the leak sealer because of what I've seen in some cases online. They used the leak fixer stuff that ends up crystallizing up and clogging up everything around the leak. If I'm not mistaken, that stuff reacts to oxygen(areas around leaks) and will solidify. I'm guessing the people that clog up their system have a major leak and not just a minor one. Also, don't some A/C shops refuse to work on the car if they have that stuff in your car. It clogs up their AC refrigerant recovery machine or something like that.
#6
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I agree with jeff on this. I guess all us gear heads like to solve the problem the correct way rather than putting a band aid on it. But to the OP, if you have a air compressor, go to harbour freight and pick up the refrigerant collection tool that attaches to your air compressor and use it to withdrawal the old refrigerant from your system. This way, it'll provide the best cooling during those hot humid summer days..
#7
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I haven't personally used it. I usually just tear down the AC and fix whatever is leaking rather than using a sealing additive. I do occasional AC work on my car and on friends so I'm not new at it. I'm sure you have a ton more experience than me so I won't argue with what you have to say.
But I have never used the leak sealer because of what I've seen in some cases online. They used the leak fixer stuff that ends up crystallizing up and clogging up everything around the leak. If I'm not mistaken, that stuff reacts to oxygen(areas around leaks) and will solidify. I'm guessing the people that clog up their system have a major leak and not just a minor one. Also, don't some A/C shops refuse to work on the car if they have that stuff in your car. It clogs up their AC refrigerant recovery machine or something like that.
But I have never used the leak sealer because of what I've seen in some cases online. They used the leak fixer stuff that ends up crystallizing up and clogging up everything around the leak. If I'm not mistaken, that stuff reacts to oxygen(areas around leaks) and will solidify. I'm guessing the people that clog up their system have a major leak and not just a minor one. Also, don't some A/C shops refuse to work on the car if they have that stuff in your car. It clogs up their AC refrigerant recovery machine or something like that.
I agree with jeff on this. I guess all us gear heads like to solve the problem the correct way rather than putting a band aid on it. But to the OP, if you have a air compressor, go to harbour freight and pick up the refrigerant collection tool that attaches to your air compressor and use it to withdrawal the old refrigerant from your system. This way, it'll provide the best cooling during those hot humid summer days..
dont take me wrong alexus im happy to debate this with you but as i said to jeff this is how/where i make my living. i manage a HVAC supply house i've been at for 9 years and we have over 300 stores nationwide so i do know a bit about HVAC. no, im not a major gearhead and will probably never teardown/rebuild a car motor but i can do most heating/air things in my sleep
OP the freon i recommended to you...(if you had read that post about it, you would know) its a direct drop in for 134, it runs 10 degrees colder than 12 and is cheap (like $11 a can). i have it in my gs430 and can get my air to mid 30's on the interstate (verified with a temp gun) and my old es300 had it and the sealant and it would get down to mid to high 30's on the interstate. you can buy it from probably any HVAC supply house....i know we carry it ( if you pm me i will tell you where one of our stores is located nearby you)
Last edited by sakataj; 10-20-10 at 09:57 AM.
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#8
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checked air last night....at 83 degrees outside temp WITH air moving over the radiator i got air inside down to 38 degrees and in 96 degrees sitting WITHOUT air moving over radiator i got 60 degrees inside car and with air moving over it i got into the LOW 50's/HIGH 40'S even with the high heat outside so like i said i love that freon.
did u get this done OP?
did u get this done OP?
#9
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sakataj, got a question for you. What pressue should R134A be charged to on the low and high side? I have a gauge set that says to target around 35psi low side. On my spordesign grey GS, the one I just bought. The car currently shows low side to be around 45psi and the AC in that car doesn't blow as cold as the one on my white GS that I charged myself.
I'm thinking it might be overcharged by the previous owner or something. But another thing, on one of my freind's cars that I've charged for him before. This is from zero charge/vacuumed...so basically empty system. With a single 12oz can, the pressure was at around 40-45psi. Then I put in a 2nd can(his car spec is for 1.5lbs) and the pressure went to 35psi. Does more refrigerant in the system lower the low side pressure?
Please share some of your experiences lol
I'm thinking it might be overcharged by the previous owner or something. But another thing, on one of my freind's cars that I've charged for him before. This is from zero charge/vacuumed...so basically empty system. With a single 12oz can, the pressure was at around 40-45psi. Then I put in a 2nd can(his car spec is for 1.5lbs) and the pressure went to 35psi. Does more refrigerant in the system lower the low side pressure?
Please share some of your experiences lol
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checked air last night....at 83 degrees outside temp WITH air moving over the radiator i got air inside down to 38 degrees and in 96 degrees sitting WITHOUT air moving over radiator i got 60 degrees inside car and with air moving over it i got into the LOW 50's/HIGH 40'S even with the high heat outside so like i said i love that freon.
did u get this done OP?
did u get this done OP?
#11
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sakataj, got a question for you. What pressue should R134A be charged to on the low and high side? I have a gauge set that says to target around 35psi low side. On my spordesign grey GS, the one I just bought. The car currently shows low side to be around 45psi and the AC in that car doesn't blow as cold as the one on my white GS that I charged myself.
I'm thinking it might be overcharged by the previous owner or something. But another thing, on one of my freind's cars that I've charged for him before. This is from zero charge/vacuumed...so basically empty system. With a single 12oz can, the pressure was at around 40-45psi. Then I put in a 2nd can(his car spec is for 1.5lbs) and the pressure went to 35psi. Does more refrigerant in the system lower the low side pressure?
Please share some of your experiences lol
I'm thinking it might be overcharged by the previous owner or something. But another thing, on one of my freind's cars that I've charged for him before. This is from zero charge/vacuumed...so basically empty system. With a single 12oz can, the pressure was at around 40-45psi. Then I put in a 2nd can(his car spec is for 1.5lbs) and the pressure went to 35psi. Does more refrigerant in the system lower the low side pressure?
Please share some of your experiences lol
on the r134a your low side should be approximately 35
the high side is gonna vary....some where between 150-175-200
to answer your 2nd ?.....someplace on the car will be the quantity of freon it holds. this will be your starting point.
if you don't have enough freon in the car (or any a/c unit) you'll have a higher pressure which will cause a higher temperature so if you add more freon (refrigerant) you will have a lower temperature which will in turn equal a lower pressure. so, yes,more refrigerant will lower the low side pressure. am i making sense to you? glad to help...if you need to know anything about HVAC i will always try and help
any hvac supply house...where is zip 33351 like what city in florida?
#12
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its brian btw jeff....
on the r134a your low side should be approximately 35
the high side is gonna vary....some where between 150-175-200
to answer your 2nd ?.....someplace on the car will be the quantity of freon it holds. this will be your starting point.
if you don't have enough freon in the car (or any a/c unit) you'll have a higher pressure which will cause a higher temperature so if you add more freon (refrigerant) you will have a lower temperature which will in turn equal a lower pressure. so, yes,more refrigerant will lower the low side pressure. am i making sense to you? glad to help...if you need to know anything about HVAC i will always try and help
any hvac supply house...where is zip 33351 like what city in florida?
on the r134a your low side should be approximately 35
the high side is gonna vary....some where between 150-175-200
to answer your 2nd ?.....someplace on the car will be the quantity of freon it holds. this will be your starting point.
if you don't have enough freon in the car (or any a/c unit) you'll have a higher pressure which will cause a higher temperature so if you add more freon (refrigerant) you will have a lower temperature which will in turn equal a lower pressure. so, yes,more refrigerant will lower the low side pressure. am i making sense to you? glad to help...if you need to know anything about HVAC i will always try and help
any hvac supply house...where is zip 33351 like what city in florida?